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  1. No worries And yeah, I am not expecting to be pefrectable, just the little step from obvious damage (bits missing) to less obtrusive would be just fine! I've also faced this when retrobrighting; I usually don't want to go all the way in (and risk damage) but if I can get it from obviously yellowed to just-hint-of-yellowing, I'll be fine with that. (My Plus' case also has some yellowing, but as it only shows on the rear, and I don't have a good setup to do as big as item as the case, I haven't bothered).
  2. Thanks for the comments! I agree that in some cases the history should be let showing, but in case there was something relatively simple to make the damage less visible, I'd like to try. If I can get some plastic filler, I might practice on something smaller first. @ronan are you sure those were right screws? Looks like they came further than they should've! Or perhaps the CRT has been replaced and the mounting is somewhat different?
  3. Well, I called it mild as there are only a couple of marks per side.... could be worse! Then there is my 512K, which I have no idea what was done to it....
  4. Has anyone come across any good methods on minimizing/hiding/filling pry marks like this on the compact Mac cases? The usual story; some previous owner tried to open the case and with a screwdriver tried to pry the case open (possible without noticing the two screws in the handle-recession). And of course tried it on all sides! I know mine shown here is a mild example. I used a knife and cut off the plastic sharpnels that were protruding from the case, thus making the damage a bit less noticeable. Perhaps some sort of plastic filler could be used to further hide the mi
  5. Late to the party, but I used two pieces of wood and a vice and it worked very nicely (see https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageApple/comments/hbzidj/recapping_a_powerbook_ac_adapter/).
  6. Very interesting stuff! I have a Sony PVM-14N5E (which I believe is the identical European version of the US model) and I am very intersted in trying to RGB mod it. I had googled some, but it hadn't occured to me to do it with the US model number. The thread linked by PotatoFi looks interesting, and it's actually the only thread I've seen to say that the mod really worked (others have just suggested that it should work).
  7. Here's the wiring for the serial adapter. Note that the symbol for the 8-pin female mini din connector is not correct (didn't have it in KiCad, don't know how to edit). Pins 3+4 are the ones closer together, and pin 7 on the top row is on the same level as pins 6 and 8. Sources: https://whitefiles.org/tec/pgs/h10b.htm
  8. Here are two things I was playing with on my Mac 512Ke today First is a 3D-printed "battery replacement" for the early Macs. It uses three LR44 batteries in series (counting up to the 4,5v as the original) and mounts in place of the original battery. Much cheaper than buying one of those Exell A21PX (yes, still available). The STL-file is now available in Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558846. You need to add a piece of wire and some sort of a battery contact on the negative end. Downside of this solution is that the capacity is only about half of the original bat
  9. Ok, an update on this. I didn't really felt like I was making any progress, so I turned to eBay. To my surprise there was a untested 630-0102 analog board (also 120V) for sale in german eBay. I thought why not, it was only 30 eur + shipping, I also got some needed spares from the same seller (a long serial cable, and a bag of spare Mac screws). I got the parcel today. The board was very similar to mine. There was a Rifa mains filter cap, I replaced that on the spot (just to make sure...), reflowed all connectors and removed a somewhat oxidized battery holder. I looked around the b
  10. R21 should be a 100K EDIT: here's the link, took some time to find it --> https://github.com/nickpunt/nubus-se30/tree/master/Schematics/apple The screenshot is from sheet 14-19, bottom center.
  11. Still no dice I have noticed one bigger issue. In the Dead Mac Scrolls (Troubleshooting, flup-flup- issues, page 24) there is a description that one should be able to measure a lowish 31/30 ohm resistance over the CR20 rectifier diode. And 52/53 ohm across CR21. If I try to measure that on my board, I briefly get about the correct value but then it starts rising, and ends up somewhere over 2-2,5 kOhm. I can't quite figure out why, as I have replaced both CR20 and CR21, and the electrolytics around them. Also adjusting R56 (+5V adj) fully counterclockwise (page 27) doe
  12. Hi @Will Cheyney, thanks for writing! Good to know that you got yours working afer the issue, that does give me hope! Those resistors R47, R49 were indeed bad in my board, too. My board already has had more damage (Q9, Q11) but hopefully I can still figure this out. I am not sure if I have yet checked those CR23 and -25 (looking at my photos I think those diodes are partly under the glue holding the adjucent big cap on my board) - but I do have a plenty of those 1N4007s at stock if needed. I am waiting for some more components to arrive (tomorrow or the day after), then
  13. I re-capped my PB100's charger just a while ago. I used a vice with small blocks of wood and indeed it worked nicely!
  14. @max1zzz: yes, I had the logic board attached. @cheesestraws: ok, saw that just now. (Thanks to both of you). In the listings the only given non-OEM part number is Philips ECG5589, and that is a huge bolt-like (ST-75 package) 550A part (according to Philips datasheet). I think that must be where the description in the manual comes (and must be a mistake). The original parts is a tiny package and it's current rating must be much, much smaller. Hmm, must have a look at the component itself when I have the board out next time. I am not sure that's my real problem, but
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