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  1. I've been thinking about this too! At one point I started modeling, but never quite figured out how to do it in style... I did print one testpiece, and with an added cable tie it kinda worked and I never finished the design It gives some protection and it has enough slack to slide the cable tie off the connector so it can be taken out if needed.
  2. Thanks, tried it and managed to get it somewhat better. Couldn't reach all magnets and didn't have time to disassemble. Need to get back to this on better time.
  3. Hi. My SE FDHD has a slight geometry problem; the bottom edge of the image is not straight. From about half way horizontally, it's either that the left side curves up or the right side curves down. Looking at the picture attached, it might be that the bottom-right corner is slightly skewed to right and down. I've had this machine for years, and I don't think it had this issue when I got it. It might have formed during my disk drive swaps, so it's probably something that I've bumped into during disassembly. I am familiar with the usual height/width pots and
  4. I did mine little while ago, my notes say that the caps are: 2x 330uF/200v, 100/10, 220/10, 47/25, 10/35, 220/25, 1000/17, 2200/10, 1200/10, 470/10, 10/25 (12 pcs total). The PSU fan is 80mmx80mmx20mm, 12v/0,19A, ball bearing. Regarding the 610 motherboards: has anyone tried retrofitting the built-in networking into a board without it?
  5. Looks like 1.6A, Slow-blow (T) Pic from my Mac Plus analog board:
  6. MindWalker


  7. No worries And yeah, I am not expecting to be pefrectable, just the little step from obvious damage (bits missing) to less obtrusive would be just fine! I've also faced this when retrobrighting; I usually don't want to go all the way in (and risk damage) but if I can get it from obviously yellowed to just-hint-of-yellowing, I'll be fine with that. (My Plus' case also has some yellowing, but as it only shows on the rear, and I don't have a good setup to do as big as item as the case, I haven't bothered).
  8. Thanks for the comments! I agree that in some cases the history should be let showing, but in case there was something relatively simple to make the damage less visible, I'd like to try. If I can get some plastic filler, I might practice on something smaller first. @ronan are you sure those were right screws? Looks like they came further than they should've! Or perhaps the CRT has been replaced and the mounting is somewhat different?
  9. Well, I called it mild as there are only a couple of marks per side.... could be worse! Then there is my 512K, which I have no idea what was done to it....
  10. Has anyone come across any good methods on minimizing/hiding/filling pry marks like this on the compact Mac cases? The usual story; some previous owner tried to open the case and with a screwdriver tried to pry the case open (possible without noticing the two screws in the handle-recession). And of course tried it on all sides! I know mine shown here is a mild example. I used a knife and cut off the plastic sharpnels that were protruding from the case, thus making the damage a bit less noticeable. Perhaps some sort of plastic filler could be used to further hide the mi
  11. Late to the party, but I used two pieces of wood and a vice and it worked very nicely (see https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageApple/comments/hbzidj/recapping_a_powerbook_ac_adapter/).
  12. Very interesting stuff! I have a Sony PVM-14N5E (which I believe is the identical European version of the US model) and I am very intersted in trying to RGB mod it. I had googled some, but it hadn't occured to me to do it with the US model number. The thread linked by PotatoFi looks interesting, and it's actually the only thread I've seen to say that the mod really worked (others have just suggested that it should work).
  13. Here's the wiring for the serial adapter. Note that the symbol for the 8-pin female mini din connector is not correct (didn't have it in KiCad, don't know how to edit). Pins 3+4 are the ones closer together, and pin 7 on the top row is on the same level as pins 6 and 8. Sources: https://whitefiles.org/tec/pgs/h10b.htm
  14. Here are two things I was playing with on my Mac 512Ke today First is a 3D-printed "battery replacement" for the early Macs. It uses three LR44 batteries in series (counting up to the 4,5v as the original) and mounts in place of the original battery. Much cheaper than buying one of those Exell A21PX (yes, still available). The STL-file is now available in Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558846. You need to add a piece of wire and some sort of a battery contact on the negative end. Downside of this solution is that the capacity is only about half of the original bat
  15. Ok, an update on this. I didn't really felt like I was making any progress, so I turned to eBay. To my surprise there was a untested 630-0102 analog board (also 120V) for sale in german eBay. I thought why not, it was only 30 eur + shipping, I also got some needed spares from the same seller (a long serial cable, and a bag of spare Mac screws). I got the parcel today. The board was very similar to mine. There was a Rifa mains filter cap, I replaced that on the spot (just to make sure...), reflowed all connectors and removed a somewhat oxidized battery holder. I looked around the b
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