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MrFahrenheit

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Everything posted by MrFahrenheit

  1. What if I stuffed the file and uploaded it somewhere for you to download?
  2. Cory, I’d be happy to do some testing to officially document this. I’m in the middle of a pretty intense project of testing a batch of magneto optical drives I purchased. I do recall at least having a 36GB drive on an LC475 running System 7.6.1 with a 30+GB single partition as the secondary partition. I have enough variety of Macs I can easily test it out with a variety of OS versions, disk sizes etc and compile a reference list.
  3. You mean the push button scsi id switch in the back of the case? Some drives might need the id set using jumpers but the theory is the same. 3 sets of 2 pins.
  4. That’s definitely a 50 pin scsi connector. Which means it’s universally transferable into and out of any Mac with on board SCSI.
  5. That depends upon the internal cabling of the drive in the enclosure. I’ve not seen the inside of that particular enclosure but I have seen inside others that are similar and they have 68pin scsi inside. If you pop it open and upload a picture it would be easier to know for sure.
  6. My method of using larger drives is: FWB Hard Disk Toolkit, 2.0x (not personal edition) First partition, 10MB, call it FWB Driver, make it not auto mount. Second partition, 1.85GB, this will be your system software partition. Third+ partitions, rest. You might be able to make a single 7GB partition, depending on the system software you use. Best to do multi partitions for the remainder. The reason for the 10MB and 1.85GB partitions is the hard disk driver must be within the first 2GB of drive space, preferably less. The OS on those needs to be on a part
  7. Your memory usage is due to the machine being in 24 bit addressing mode. Open the Memory control panel and enable 32 bit addressing.
  8. The LC520, LC 550, and CC2 boards are all identical. In fact the same Apple part number is printed on the boards from all 3 of these models. The difference is the speed of the oscillator on the board in the machine it’s in. Apple even used different clock chips (at least the printing on the CPU indicates the chip is a different speed than the machine it runs in). I have seen 16mhz cpu in the board running 25mhz, a 25mhz cpu running 25mhz, a 25mhz cpu running 33mhz, and a 33mhz cpu running 33mhz. All with the same printed number on the logic board with the 820-0368 number
  9. I would lean towards the SCSI drive or even just something wrong with the cable on the drive, if everything else checks out fine.
  10. I’m kind of thinking this is a bad RAM issue. Have you run MacTest Pro? https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/apple-mactest-pro Also Newer Tech’s Gauge series had a memory tester: https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/newer-technology-disk Not sure if you can download and run them given your current issues. Have you tried making a System 7.0.1 boot disk and booting from floppy ?
  11. If this were any other Mac board I’d say recap it because it sounds like a capacitor issue. However, that doesn’t mean the tantalum caps on the board are failing or even if one has failed. Have you opened up the case and closely examined the board? Removed the PRAM battery? It’s also possible the power supply has an issue or that some of the onboard RAM has gone bad. Have you removed the extra 64mb to see if the problem is worse ?
  12. I have (and did have back in the day), Yamaha 4416s SCSI CDRW drives. They work with Toast, the toast cd extension allows it to Mount CDs in the finder, and I believe they are bootable in certain versions of system software. At least I recall making bootable CDs with mine using the Toast CD extension.
  13. Very good question! The 1.1.1 comes as an update extension. If I recall A/UX 3 had it but I can’t verify at the moment. I had an electrical emergency in my home (almost burned down) and I had to pack up all my vintage stuff for the moment. I wish A/UX supported 7.1. Some apps and games require it due to sound manager updates and QuickTime.
  14. System 7.0.1 with the 1.1.1 update (technically 7.0.1.1.1.1), is basically just as good as 7.1. If I recall, 7.1 was released to support system enablers, and apple was working on the features of System 7 Pro at the same time, as well as PowerPC just before, but for operational things and for stability, 7.0.1 is just as good.
  15. You’ll want to go with 2.0.6 then, which requires System 7.0.1.
  16. Here is my advice: Use FWB Hard Disk Toolkit. Version 2.5.3 should work good on a Q700. Create 10mb partition. Label it FWB DRIVER. Set it to not auto Mount. Create a 1.9GB partition. This will be your system software boot partition. Create as many and as large of partitions as you want, or one single large partition for rest of data. The drive will boot just about any Mac this way. 68k Mac requires hard disk driver to be found in first partition under 2GB. Mac system software only boots from a partition also found under the first 2
  17. You could always mount them in toast, and create new images from those mounted ones using DiskCopy 6.3 and upload the set to the Garden.
  18. Okay, understood. I didn't think it would be the very same one, just one like it, as you mention. Very good to know. I've also found these, but I haven't bought any yet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-12V-12V-EOS-POWER-SUPPLY/143487293383?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Note, just like the others, they are missing -5V as @cheesestraws mentions.
  19. So just to confirm, you got your LC Mac powered on using one of those same molex adapter power supplies I linked to?
  20. There’s lots of these kits on eBay for $10 free shipping. They include a 5/12v dc power brick that has a molex connector. The other bits could be useful to you at some point too and they’d basically be free. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143990046917
  21. I have about 50 LC-class power supplies I need to recap. I haven’t yet opened a single one. Do you know if every cap inside should be replaced or just a select few? Are they all using the same caps that need replacing or do the different brands use completely different caps?
  22. That’s awesome!! The Color (sometimes Colour) Classic II is a decent machine vs the original CC. As for games, the original MYST works great on it. I ram mine off of a Magneto Optical drive. Enjoy!
  23. The condition of the plastic is about the same on any Mac made 1992+. There was a formulation change in the plastic that resulted in them becoming more brittle over time than some prior ones.
  24. Firstly, as a fellow owner of a CCII, CONGRATULATIONS!! You’ll obviously need to have that PRAM battery removed. ASAP. The plastics on a CCII are extraordinarily brittle. To the point of looking at it can cause a piece to snap. When you removed the back cover be extra gentle and use something like a screwdriver to help move the plastic catch so you’re not pressing on the tab fully. I snapped mine immediately when I tried opening and I was carful. Leave the back access cover off and if possible 3D print a new one to have in there to take on and off. Trust me. Las
  25. I apologize that I asked you about ribbon cable even though you mentioned in your original post that you had cable attached. It was mostly to draw attention and ensure it was the correct cable you were talking about and that it was plugged in properly. I’m glad I could track down the answer for you. Enjoy your restored machine !
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