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ttb

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  1. This is awesome, thank you! The 0.47 uF 100V radial is now obsolete. I think 493-4723-1-ND should be an acceptable replacement (same 105 C rating).
  2. Thanks, @dkjones96! I ended up doing it option 1 myself on one CC and am so far pleased. The geometry is good but the focus is a little off. Haven't tried tweaking the focus pot yet, though.
  3. I've used the Saft 1/2 AA cells mentioned above with success. In machines that I think I may forget about, I've desoldered the 1/2 AA holder and put in a CR2032 holder in its place: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/keystone-electronics/1058TR/5118854 The CR2032s are a nominal 3.2V but appear to work fine. They have less capacity but rarely leak and are cheap/readily available.
  4. I believe there are members here that have been successful installing A/UX from (and to) a SCSI2SD. You just have to write the A/UX image to the SD card and set the device type to CD-ROM I believe. I haven't tried it yet, though. I did try out the ready-made A/UX 3.1.1 SD image from the unix forum here and although it worked, it was slow and when the file system eventually corrupted itself it subsequently stopped working. I'd like to try a clean 2.x install as well as a clean 3.x install and see how it goes.
  5. As noted in many CC boot failure threads, the Egret chip near the battery tends to get the brunt of the cap goo. One it fails, that kills soft power. I have had success removing the egret with hot air and thoroughly cleaning under it. Soaking in IPA may be good enough, too.
  6. Too funny. Speaking of floppy drives, I realize one of them does need to be cleaned, so there is always that. I’ve got a few Color Classics that need attention, too I picked up two SSP-300SUBs from Newegg for $63 USD each: https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-flex-sub-ssp-300sub-300w/p/N82E16817151212?item=N82E16817151212 I couldn’t find anything cheaper than that in the US for either the -250 or -300.
  7. That's pretty interesting. With my recapped Sony PSUs I had adjusted the output to be 5V on the dot with a calibrated meter. As you can see from the o-scope trace earlier it's still bang on with the accelerator loading it up. Conversely, my (now dead) Astec was only putting out 4.84 V which sounds pretty close to the limit you were at yet that one seemed to work okay. Granted I didn't run it for more than a few minutes and it's now toast, but at least it didn't show the same problem. I guess the moral of the story is that these accelerators are generally sensitive to power supply p
  8. I'm a big fan of the rule of 3. I also end up with a 9+/10 machine, a 7-/10, and a box of parts at the end Plus three of anything together seems to be when it starts looking impressive like your stack there.
  9. Alright, mark this as solved. I took the nuclear approach and swapped in a new power supply, a Seasonic SSP-300SUB as described in this thread: This resolved my issues with the Turbo 040 and PowerCache. I have not measured the 5V rise time with the new power supply but I would expect it's much shorter than the 50 ms I was seeing on my recapped Sony.
  10. Oh, of course. I was thinking of the male-female ones that I @joethezombie used earlier in the thread. It sounds like you used female-female standoffs or maybe had it with the male end fastening the PCB? Anyway, I ended up using male-male M2.5 standoffs with screws on both sides: Finished product (I just pulled all the pins out of the 26-position receptacle, crimped pins on a used SE power supply cable, and put them in the appropriate positions): The good news is that this successfully resolved my accelerator issues so now I've finally ru
  11. Bringing this great thread back from the dead as I'm trying to resolve some PSU issues with my SE/30s the lazy way by swapping them out for SSP-300SUBs (apparently the new equivalent to the SSP-250 discussed here). @Crutch you mentioned you drilled and tapped holes for standoffs to support the Seasonic PCBA in the original Astec housing's sheet metal. I was planning on doing this, but wondered if you needed to do anything to get enough material for the threads to bite. Often I think tapped sheet metal holes are preformed with a mandrel before tapping so that the threaded part ends
  12. I am hoping to use a simple S-Video switchbox for the same purpose (less glamorous than a microcontroller, but I think I can handle turning a dial). I hadn't considered the hot plugging issue, though. Looks like Focus Bus Tool and ADB Renewer are candidates for the type of utility @cheesestraws is talking about.
  13. When it shows the floppy icon have you tried booting it from the floppy? The SCSI chip is adjacent to three capacitors so that can result in the type of trouble you're seeing. If it can boot form a floppy disk after showing the flashing question mark it seems like that could point you in that direction. For one of mine I desoldered the SCSI IC and cleaned under it to resolve similar issues. Mine would actually stop booting once it warmed up. It's possible that the person who recapped this board just didn't clean it well enough and a soak in IPA would be good enough.
  14. From what I've read there are many patterns that can indicate different types of failure. When I have a RAM/ROM issue with my working boards the screen looks like this: That's quite a bit different that your zebra bar pattern (which I think is maybe the real "simasimac" pattern). I would try removing all of your RAM and/or ROM and trying to boot. See if you get the same zebra bar pattern or a pattern like the above. It could be that there are additional issues with your board that result in it showing the zebra bars instead of the pattern above when there is a RAM issue (with or w
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