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Everything posted by EkriirkE

  1. Video recording of the process form start to finish
  2. They were a community machine shop in SJ/RWC, looks like they closed a couple years ago. You could have had one bent into shape from sheet metal there for you, the design is simple enough... @slomacuser Very cool!
  3. @olePigeon Glad I could help! Unfortunately this lot is still in Germany But the stand seems easy enough to make if you have access to any decent workshop. Mabe ask someone over at the TechShop if they still exist?
  4. @LaPorta No, just put droplets on the affected areas and let is sit until it evaporates, then add more to wet it and gently scrub with a toothbrush. Final rinse with IPA
  5. Someone mentioned vinegar, I like to use oxalic acid. It removes and sometimes reversed oxidation. Breaks up caustic battery electrolyte wonderfully
  6. How would that work, how would you control the polarization angle? It must be 90° from the rear film
  7. Here's my gallery of a PB150 I did about a year ago https://imgur.com/gallery/xlJQgIW
  8. IIRC it wasn't too hard to add one, tapping into the trackball, because ADB is a parallel topology
  9. Oh man. When I got to the part where you said you saw the maxwell bomb I thought "impossible! The base SEs don't have those and the wired batteries I've never seen leak" then I saw someone has clipped the original battery out, installed a socket, and put a dirty bomb inside It may be salvageable. Do the acid soak as mentioned
  10. Yes, the stand has a sticker on it by Raduis - the other big player in Mac graphics. But nothing more identifying than that like a model Bonus underside shot showing reinforcements made in corners and under the top
  11. Just did an acid soak and preliminary scrub with soapy water. The ASIC looks fine. The Zilog is missing 1 pin which I think I can fix and the 2 onboard RAM are shot. Also lots of missing traces. Those I can handle, but I worry for the vias that go to inside layers. I'll have to get the schematic
  12. Here is the damage. It's bad but not terrible - I'm going to give it a shot. Luckily I have the other IIf to reference for parts and surface traces
  13. That corrosion isn't all that bad, use vinegar to neutralize it then scrub and rinse with toothbrush+IPA As to the PSU, check the low voltage side's caps for leakage and/or dryness (test out of circuit)
  14. Yeah I can't use my back when moving it, this one has 3 BNC as well ( R, G, B ) Vielleicht! But it only just appeared in my saved searches a couple weeks ago, so unless the seller updated the listing I can't say.... Außerhalb von MUC? The board doesn't appear all that bad from the inside the case though there are some loose floating tants with corroded legs which doesn't bode well for any nearby ICs. I haven't broken them down yet, and there are a few SMD electrolytics I want to replace. It's nowhere near as bad as the huge brown rust holes you typically see in an
  15. I purchased this lot just because it was a working IIfx which I've wanted for a while but they don't float by often enough. Turns out this included a second dead IIfx from a PRAM battery explosion. I was not prepared for how large the also-included SuperMac 19" Trinitron was, but I should have known better with how well it fits above the massive Mac II series I'll attempt to repair that one as well as generally re-cap both boards. Both machines included a SuperMac video card (different models) and a third SuperMac video card was included New-in-Box It came
  16. I used randoms I had on hand (see this album https://imgur.com/a/69J7YWl ) and didnt have quite the same dimensions but they still fit fine But if you want exact value matches here (these are thru-hole so sizing is not exact but will fit): C1 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/USR0G101MDD C51 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UMA1V3R3MDD Also the only obvious thru-hole I don't see any designation for [470u10v] which is not the type to go bad really (and mine tested well within spec), but "might as well" https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nich
  17. For clarification This fixed sound I had 100µF 25V on hand at 6.4mm dia and it fit fine And this fixed the display, you have to remove the logic board to get to it underneath: I had 3.3µF 50V on hand
  18. Your 100 will need to be recapped. C1[100u4v] and C51[3.3u35v]
  19. Mine works fine w/o the backup battery
  20. I bought a MessagePad on eBay as "Broken, screen flashes" so I thought I'd give it a go in repairing it blindly... First observations: It's an Original OMP H1000; No sound, occasionally the display would show through, touchscreen is fine, faint mechanical ticking in sync with the glitching - not form the speaker. On first opening it the area around the speaker wires and power input has a white residue. C1 [100uF,4V] is a compact electrolytic that had some brown around it Replacing this got me sound (startup chime!). It also had the typical fishy smell
  21. Nice troubleshooting
  22. Here's another project repurposing the CRT/case http://spritesmods.com/?art=macsearm&page=1
  23. That's just silicone sealer to prevent possible arcing form the HV lead to the ground coating. Not necessarily required and I don't remember any of my macs having it. RTV silicone will do if you want. It was common in TVs.
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