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Everything posted by max1zzz

  1. @cheesestraws@mattsoft@olePigeon Thanks I'll build the next revision of board to be blink on for activity
  2. Simple question, Where activity LED's in older macs on blinking off for activity or off blinking on (Like modern pc's)? I need to sort out the activity LED circuit on my SCA to SCSI adapters (Which techknight pointed out to me was incorrect several years ago but I never got around to fixing...) and am trying to figure out which way to wire it but I don't have anything with both a original HDD and a activity indicator to check
  3. My PB100 has no RFID paint on the palmrest I need to double check but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work without another antenna
  4. Ooh, So with the SCSI to Ethernet support I could have wifi on my PB100, Awesome! Which reminds me I need to make the couple of corrections to my 2.5" board after which I'll post the PCB files for anyone that is interested
  5. @Kai Robinson Have you found a source of the DRAM ic's for those sticks? I looked at building some a while back but couldn't find the IC's for anything approaching a reasonable price....
  6. For the 165 you could use a RaSCSI board, I made a modified version of @landoGriffin's hardware design designed to fit in a PB's HDD bay. Otherwise it's a SCSi2SD as others have said (If you can get hold of one that is, the last few times I have looked the 2.5" version has been out of stock
  7. It's not something I would have usually looked at, It was last Christmas and I was board and looking for something stupidly old that I could shoehorn Windows 10 onto to send to one of our shops as a joke refurb, I only picked it up as it looked quite chunky at which point I realised it was sitting on a dock which I separated it form to find the laptop was a prototype (the dock was not). If It wasn't for me trolling to scrap pile for something to wind up one of our shop managers with it would have gone to recycling I would actually love to find a QS on it, the G4 towers (And G3 B/
  8. I always keep a eye on the scrap pile at work and occasionally find some interesting things, probably the most interesting things I picked up where a Prototype 17" 2007 MBP (Sadly dead) and a Prototype Dell Latitude X200 (working but with broken hinges, dead battery (No surprise) and missing HDD cable & ram cover) which I'm currently looking for IDE SSD and battery for (Having fixed it's other issues) The X200 is actually a really impressively thin and light laptop for the early 2000's (It's as thin and light as my Thinkpad L480). No idea what any of our customers where doing with prototyp
  9. I did think about making my board using a CM4 but the lack of stock anywhere made me go for the zero, It would be nice to have the added performance of the Pi 4 for the newer powerbooks. I would be a little concerned about the Pi4's reputation for running hot though, in the confines of a PB HDD bay this might cause a issue. There is only one way to know for sure though!
  10. Many years ago I used to make terminated adapters that terminated the upper bits of the bus which provided better compatibility with newer drives, annoyingly I can't find good pictures of them anywhere though I still have a bunch of the PCB's left that I should assemble one day, but I'm thinking of redrawing the board with a better layout I'm actually surprised the top adapter causes problems, I count 9 elements per resistor pack for a total of 27 termination resistors which should be enough to terminate all the signals on the SCA connector (There are 26 IIRC - at least my ada
  11. Yep, they look like the ones!
  12. If it needs three I would expect them to be the split packs with two resistors per pin, I can't be 100% on that but all the drives I have had with 3 packs have used the split packs, if you have continuity form one end of where the resistor packs go ground you need the split packs Something like this is likely what you need: https://uk.farnell.com/bourns/4610x-104-221-331l/res-n-w-dual-terminator-330r-0/dp/2908124
  13. There are two types used as far as I know, the first is a simple SIL resistor pack, typically 9 elements with a value of 110 ohms. Drives using this arrangement typically have two resistor packs The second has two elements per pin, one pulling up to TERMPWR and one pulling down to GND, typically the pull up element is 220ohm and the pull down one is 330 ohm. Drives using this arrangement typically have 3 resistor packs It's pretty easy to work out what kind the drive expects, you just need to test for continuity at the ends of each resistor pack to ground, if one end is
  14. OK..... I think I have found the issue and I'm a little embarrassed as to what it was, turns out it was a cold solder joint on one of the termination resistors..... I designed the board using 0603 resistors forgetting the reel or 110ohm resistors I had where 0805, turns out bodgeing 0805's onto 0603 pads isn't the best idea! My PB145B now boots from my Pi Zero powered RaSCSI just fine And the board (ignore that bodge wire - it is a leftover from debugging and is not needed) I need to add a anti backfeed diode to the +5v rail on the board to stop the P
  15. If they are form ITEAD they are genuine, if they are form anyone else they are knockoffs
  16. So my boards arrived a few days ago, unfortunately the bad news is they don't seem to work, both my powerbook 100 and 145B refuse to boot from it, the 74LS641's also seem to be getting pretty warm which doesn't seem right! I'm a bit lost as to what the issue is right now, I can't see and obvious errors in the board but since this is based on design we know works I must have made a error somewhere!
  17. My 2.5x2 converted to air cooling had pretty high temps but they where fairly constant IIRC (I actually think one of my modules might have had a bad temp sensor). I would personally check the cards are making good contact with the heatsink's, if they are and the machine seems stable I probably wouldn't worry too much, these machines aren't designed to run with aircooling so they will run hotter than hey would normally
  18. Very nice! As for extension cables, iirc you can get a normal 20pin ATX extension cable and just use one side of it (I haven't tried this personally though)
  19. Well, Just sent to board off to JLCPCB Hopefully they work fine
  20. I'm in need of some 2.5" SCSI drives, SCSI2SD is a option but they are pretty expensive and not often available at all I have been vaguely following RaSCSI's developments for a while so I figured what better time to jump in It's largely just a copy of landoGriffin's board with just a 40pin 2.0mm header except I swapped the termination for the scheme I used on my SCA - > 50Pin adapters as it uses less resistors and I go mad soldering SMD resistors after a while! I need to double check my measurements before sending it for production as the board is pretty tight in
  21. Thanks! Just tried that, drive is now seeking but not booting (I got the happy mac once or twice and even the welcome to macintosh screen once but it froze on boot) Will make a boot floppy tomorrow and see if it works after formatting
  22. it's a 40mb conner. It seems to have trouble spinning up to full speed, sometimes it will only spin up for a second and spin back down and then repeat this 3-4 times before sounding like it has got up to full speed but the drive never tries to seek, I have tried removing the top of the dive and giving the arm a very gentle nudge out of the park position (This has worked for me a few times in the past) but the drive just spins down as soon as I do this
  23. Got the board mostly recapped (Just need to get the 4.7uf cap and the radials as I didn't have them in stock) and gave it a trip through the ultrasonic cleaner PowerBook now seems to be poring on just fine Unfortunately the HD is bad though so I'm going to have to figure something out there, the only real option i am aware of (other than trying to source another 2.5" scsi drive) is the 2.5" scsi2sd but that is both pretty expensive and I can't actually find it in stock anywhere.
  24. I managed to get the brick apart in the end, I managed to crack enough of the seam apart with the mallet to be able to slide a putty knife between the two half's of the brick and separate it The news is not good though, all caps where leaking badly and where replaced however I still got no output from the brick, a bit of probing revealed the main mosfet on the primary side of the brick is a dead short between all 3 legs. The mosfet is still produced new however I have little experience repairing switch mode supplies outside replacing caps so I think I'm going to seek out a modern s
  25. Anyone got any advise on how to crack the power brick open without destroying it? My usual method of a few sturdy whacks with a mallet is not proving to be very successful and I suspect trying to prise along the seam will just end up mangling the plastic I'll be stripping and hopefully recapping the PowerBook later today, unfortunately all the rubber on the PB has turned to goo so I'm not going to be able to get the feet out and get the the screws underneath without destroying the feet
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