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About LaPorta

  • Birthday 12/03/1983

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    CT, USA

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  1. No, the guy wouldn't budge on price, and someone bought it for $115 or something, which, to me, was way out of the ballpark for what it should be. I could be wrong, but I thought it was too much.
  2. Yeah, it should always be on. Are you using a known-good cable as well? I know, these are first-grade suggestions, but usually I find the easiest, lamest solution is the one that finds the problem!
  3. FInding alternatives like this is also an important goal if the real deal is unable to be obtained in the future.
  4. No, it will not. Only if a cap is below a spec for voltage is it an issue. It will seriously diminish the life of the cap, and fail prematurely (if not right away).
  5. I'd look them up and see. Or, wait a year or two for when I get around to my 2300 and I will test them with my cap tester which tells you teh capacitence :P I second the "cap list repository" idea.
  6. Did the "Select" button on the Imagewriter get un-selected, by chance?
  7. The above i correct, that was why I was asking. Another posible way to go about it is to get yourself a pair of PhoneNet adapters.
  8. Thanks, Matt. I have a bit of an update. So, The four caps that appear to be in the sound area (the sound input from the CD drive plugs in nearby, and it is right behind the sound output jack), I desoldered them, cleaned the pads, resoldered, cleaned the terminals on the caps...basically made them the spiffiest, cleanest cap job I ever could. Played some Marathon for maybe 30 minutes or so, everything seemed great. Then...crackling from the internal speaker! So, I experimented a little. I shut off the AudioVision speakers, and just kept dinging the alert sound. So, during the crack
  9. Coincidentally, I have literature, original unopened disks, the cover insert pack, clear cover, etc, etc for 1400s. Let me know if you's be interested in buying.
  10. What sort of cabling are you using between the two?
  11. Hey everyone, So, I just finished an overhaul of my AudioVision 14", and then turned to my 6100 DOS to get it back in shape. Absolutely no issues prior to recap, just preventative. Caps removed easy: no lifted pads. Replaced them all with same spec 47 µf, 16V organic polymer surface mount caps. No issues so far. Now, when I use the machine, after a while (presumably when it heats up), I start getting all this crazy loud crackling through the internal speaker. I have the thing hooked to the AudioVision and it does the crazy dance through the cable converter via the PC Card cable, et
  12. It was not standard, it was an added option. My 2300c has a blanked modem port there behind that leg.
  13. Yes. You can barely budge the board unless the connector is out of the way.
  14. Re: disassembly - yes, indeed, the logic board to analog board connector can be fraught with danger due to the proximity to the CRT neck. In my opinion, you are actually safer taking the neck board off if unsure because 1. It makes the clearance greater, and 2. It takes away a source of a 90 degree sheer force on the back of the CRT. With time, you will develop your own technique to pull it without damage. As for the card, id remove the daughter board (with the monitor connector) and it’s ribbon or whatever connects it first. Then, you should be able to slide out the logic board and the accele
  15. What Matt said, but usually my MO is this: when I get a machine with a working HD, I connect it somehow via network or external SCSI to another drive. I then make a DiskCopy image of the entire HD. I then proceed to reformat the entire thing and install a fresh system on a blank HD. At my leasure, I can then peruse the old stuff and reintroduce things if I wish.
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