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naryasece

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  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • Interests
    Macs, running, biking

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  1. naryasece

    PowerBook 540c Main battery leak cleanup

    Papichulo, thank you for the reply; I think you're right about using baking soda and alcohol. I did some more digging and found a post about a 180c having a similar issue: https://classicmacs.org/2010/06/powerbook-180c-acquired/ I picked up some (3%) hydrogen peroxide to try on the case and should have some baking soda around, I'll give those a try. Should still have some isopropyl alcohol around as well for cleaning the board. I'll post results when I get a chance to work on it.
  2. Hi, I noticed I couldn't take out the battery in my 540c, so I took apart the case and found that the main battery had leaked pretty badly in the bay. I'm wondering if there is a way to clean up the corrosion and and stuff. Searching around I found articles and tutorials for alkaline batteries, but nothing specific for Ni-MH (actually most sites said it was very rare for Ni-MH batteries to leak badly). I found an article from Energizer (https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/nickelmetalhydride_appman.pdf) stating that the crystals are potassium carbonate, so perhaps a weak acid, like vinegar could clean it up? Some of the crystal build up looks green, my guess is that was corrosion from the copper leads? Any tips for cleanup would be appreciated! Thanks
  3. naryasece

    Question on a spot of corrosion

    I'm working on refurbishing an SE Superdrive for my friend, but came across what I worry might be some corrosion at the base of the power supply. This is in the left front of the machine just behind the contrast knob (which is visible in the picture) Link to full sized image: https://i.imgur.com/2QlmSet.jpg It sort of looks like grease to me and appears dry. Looking inside the power supply, I don't notice any leaky capacitors on the inside of the power supply. Anyone else run into this? Let me know what you think. Thanks!
  4. naryasece

    Macintosh Classic II capacitor blues

    Oh neat, I just recapped my Classic II last week (it was my first attempt to recap a motherboard). I bought enough capacitors to recap either type of Classic II boards from www.mouser.com (as I didn't have the computer open at the time of buying the capacitors). It was $11.25 including shipping. I opted for Panasonic Aluminum SMD passive capacitors (similar to ones I thought were already on the board) that would last at least 5000 hours http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-SMD/_/N-75hqx/. Their search form looks complex at first, but was able to find the components I needed by entering the capacitance and voltage rating. Sorry I don't have any tips on prolonging the temporary fix!
  5. naryasece

    Classic II Wash/recapping

    Ah nice. I'm not opposed to putting it in the dishwasher (if I had one), just wanted to make sure I wasn't worsening any corrosion But sounds like corrosion will not be an issue if it has worked so often in the past for you. Thanks!
  6. naryasece

    Classic II Wash/recapping

    thanks for the tip! I will give that a try
  7. naryasece

    Classic II Wash/recapping

    Hi all, I am finally working to recap/restore my Classic II that has been out of commission for the last 8 years, using it as practice to refurbish the rest of my collection. The Classic II had weak sound and stopped booting a number of years ago but I have some newbie questions for the refurbishment process. I purchased replacement capacitors as per uniserver's diagrams, got the case cracked open and proceeded with an initial wash as prep before surgery. My steps were: Wash with water spray 91% isopropyl alcohol, swirly motions in a tub of water spray again with alcohol delicately clean around capacitors with a q-tip rinse with water fan dry for about 6 hours The good news, the computer booted right up when the mother board was dry (as best I could tell). I hope I did the wash correctly, but my questions are: The water at my place is soft from what I can tell, I figured tap water would be fine given some motherboards go through the dishwasher. Am I correct to assume this? Should I have avoided the tap water or used distilled water instead? Should I skip water altogether and stick with just the isopropyl alcohol? The motherboard has gunk between the pins of the chips (See attachment), should I be worried about this? I think I noticed some green corrosion on a copper lead (or two), should try to clean it with vinegar/salt (like a US penny) or get some copper cleaner? Anything else I can do to protect the leads/pins on the motherboard? Thanks in advance! Edit: hopefully got the image attached this time Attachment:
  8. naryasece

    System 8.x DHCP not working?

    Just curious, when you check the DHCP settings, do you have a browser open (or something else making a request)? In my experience, OpenTransport (by default) only activates TCP/IP when an application makes a request.
  9. naryasece

    Powerbook 1400 Jackpot

    Wow that is quite a find! Congrats!
  10. A lot of great suggestions so far, a few more could be: Terminal Velocity Damage Inc Prime Target X-Wing Tie Fighter Lode Runner Escape Velocity If you don't already, grab a copy of SpeedDoubler 8 as well. In my personal experience, CD-Rs work fine on the older computers but CD-RWs do not. Disk Images should be fine to burn, but burning a folder from a current Mac might not work. 8.1 supports HFS+ (Mac OS Extended) but 8.0 only supports Mac OS Standard (don't have it burn a PC formatted disk )
  11. naryasece

    PB5300c networking

    Hm.. I assume you are using Open Transport instead of Classic Networking? You'll see a Control Panel for TCP/IP if you are using Open Transport. It might be useful to make sure you are running the latest Open Transport, which is 1.3 if I recall. System 7 Today should have the drivers: http://main.system7today.com/updates/75x_powerpc.html By default, Open Transport only activates the TCP/IP stack if an application needs it, so you might need to boot up a browser if you have not already done so. Setting Appletalk to use the Ethernet card might help too, or it will give you an error saying it cannot. Maybe this site might help out? http://www.floodgap.com/retrotech/mac/enet3c589/I'm not sure what card you have, if it is the C or D card
  12. naryasece

    LapisColor MV16 EN Compatibility

    I finally got around to swapping out the card from my 5300 into my 190. Unfortunately, I got the same result as you. My card has a note "FOR 53XX"1 so I guess that the 190's card would say something like "FOR 19X". I incorrectly assumed that the MV16EN was a universal card, because the Installation software had options to install the driver for the 5300 or 190 series, but only had 5300 drivers for their MV16 and MV8 cards. Sorry to get your hopes up! 1. Makes me wonder if Apple planned to release other alternate models, like a 5316, following their PowerMac lines.
  13. naryasece

    LapisColor MV16 EN Compatibility

    I thought that the mv16-en was compatible across the 5300 and 190, though not sure about the 8-bit video card or the video card sans ethernet. I have a 5300c +mv16-en card, I'll try the card in my 190 when I get a chance and post about the results. Could the HD not spinning up be a result of not enough power from the power adapter?
  14. Is it a partitioned Mac OS Standard and Extended CF card? I think I ran into that recently, I think re-blessing the System on the Mac OS Standard partition fixed it. Is it possible that the System was intended for a different computer and might not a 'universal' install for any computer?
  15. naryasece

    Mac IIsi (My First Non Compact)

    @3583Bytes, I would get a Mac to VGA adapter that has switches on it. Although most of my Macs will work with separate sync, I found that the IIsi would only connect to my VGA monitors with composite sync set. I don't think removing the battery will cause an issue with the soft power. You should be able to get it to boot with the power switch in the back, at least. @Elfen, If I recall, the IIsi is a 32bit clean machine. The ROM SIMM slot was to provide the ability to upgrade the ROM at a later date. I think the early production machines had a ROM SIMM in the slot, whereas later computers had it attached to the motherboard. I believe the ROM SIMM is sought after by II, IIx & SE/30 users because it makes their machine 32bit clean. Hope that helps!
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