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Garrett

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    http://personal.garrettfuller.org/blog/

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  1. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    In the photos I took of the machine before reassembling it last Friday, none of the electrolytic capacitors appear to be domed or leaking. Obviously, that doesn't mean anything. If the caps are not causing the issue, what else could be causing the issue? My electronics troubleshooting skills is near zero...
  2. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    Should simply having the analog board bring the machine back from the dead? When I got the LB recapped, I was considering also having the AB recapped. But I decided against it because it wasn't showing any signs of failure, and I wanted to avoid/put off having to mess with the AB because of the risks of removing the neck board. (Am I being too anxious over the neck board?) On a silver lining, recapping the AB would mean that this machine is 100% recapped... nothing to worry about. While I don't believe it is an issue on these "newer" compact Mac models, no more paper/RIFA/filter caps to worry about possibly going bang.
  3. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    That was precisely my speculation, but unfortunately I don't have a multimeter to test any voltages on this machine. My guess is that there simply isn't enough voltage for the hard drive to spin up. When I boot into the ROM operating system and insert a floppy, the drive's current brings down the voltage and crashes the machine. Then, as the machine tries to eject the floppies on boot, it brings down the voltages again causing the machine to reset, rinse and repeat until you break the cycle by turning the machine off. The logic board in this machine was very recently recapped. In fact, I just received the freshly-recapped board and installed it last Friday (May 29.) What's odd is that between May 29 and June 4, this machine worked flawlessly except the delay and pattern, which I and the member who recapped the board think is related to the ROM. (He tested it in another machine with a separate analog board and got the same issue... both before and after the recap. He said reseating the ROM helped the problem, but it persists. I'm thinking perhaps the ROM socket needs some DeoxIT?) I guess the "computer Grim Reaper" visited overnight because this machine was literally working perfectly fine one day, the next day it was acting up, and now it's unusable. And, of course, it all had to happen just as I was beginning to have fun with the machine.
  4. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    I will try to remove the anode cap by hand once I can cobble together a tool to discharge the CRT. An flathead screwdriver (with an insulated handle) and an alligator clip running from the screwdriver to the metal chassis should be sufficient to discharge the CRT, correct? (That's what I've seen in almost every video showing someone discharging a CRT.) I'm assuming it's crucial to remove the logic board from the computer before doing any work on the CRT. As mentioned, I'm mainly worried about the neck board and reinstalling everything. Last thing I want to do is either break the neck of the CRT or reinstall something wrong and let the magic smoke out of something else or, worse, catch something on fire. As for now, I've made a video depicting the behavior this machine is currently going through. I was able to get it to boot into the ROM operating system, but it instantly crashed as soon as I loaded a floppy disk. When it came back up, it went into a "chime cycle" where the machine would crash (thus chiming again) when trying to eject the floppy. I ended up having to manually remove the floppy using a straightened paper clip. Here's the video:
  5. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    Thanks for the tip on the logic board molex connector. However, I normally have the computer set normally when I reinstall the logic board, so I can't really put my hand below the logic board. As for the anode cap, I always thought you could simply squeeze the fingers holding it in place from the outside. Guess I was wrong, though. Tried powering up the Classic today and it was acting up again. I was able to get it to a flashing question mark icon ... hard drive doesn't seem to spin up. (I'm assuming it isn't getting the proper voltage.) On a couple of tries the machine chimed multiple times, one try it chimed probably 5-6 times. Also noticed the pattern slowly goes away. Unlike last night, I couldn't get it past the flashing question mark icon. Guess I'm going to have to have the analog board recapped. I knew it was just a matter of time though... I've heard that the Classic/Classic II are notorious for having bad caps, although any old computer isn't immune. I have a video of the behavior, but it's shaky.
  6. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    I already know to discharge it at the anode cap. I've heard most CRTs from this era (should say the driving circuitry) are pretty good about discharging the CRT itself, but never a good idea to rely on that. When reinstalling the logic board in this machine, I was careful to keep my hands in the bottom part of the machine. The biggest problem for me is plugging in the molex plug coming from the analog board... sometimes I have to put a little bit of force on it to get it to snap into place properly, which makes me worry whether I'm putting too much force on the connector/board. As for the floppy/hard drive connectors, I've found that I can pull the logic board out and feed the cables through the bottom of the frame. Usually there's just enough slack in there that I can plug them in and slide the logic board back into its proper place. But, of course, the Classic has a smaller logic board and is built different from the earlier models. That sucks about accidentally breaking the neck. That would be my worst nightmare... accidentally breaking the neck and hearing the hissing. These old Macs are extremely rare around here (at least for a decent price) so it took a couple years just to find this one. Plus, its CRT is in really good condition. It appears to have been a low-hours machine. Will do. I'm assuming the big cable going to the CRT is the high-voltage one that goes to the anode cap? Also, isn't there a ground screw on one of the CRT mounts that must be removed? Thanks everyone for your replies. This is making me extremely nervous, because I'm afraid I may use a little too much force or may accidentally jostle something wrong and snap! hiss! It might be a while before I'm able to actually get the analog board recapped.
  7. Garrett

    Removing the analog board/CRT neck board

    Thanks. I'll find a video on the suction cap... I've seen some 8-bit Guy videos where does it but it's been a while. I'm mostly concerned about the neck board, given that the neck is the weakest part of the tube and thus the most prone to breaking. I recall seeing what appears to be hot glue around the area the neck board connects to the tube. Would I need to do anything with that prior to attempting to remove the board? Also, how much force does it take to remove the neck board? This computer (as far as I know) has never been serviced before I purchased it, so it's likely the neck board has never been removed from the CRT since the computer was manufactured.
  8. Ever since I received and installed my freshly-recapped logic board for my 1991 Macintosh Classic, the machine has been reliable and working wonderfully. (Besides the 1-2 minute delays on startup, where it displays a pattern on the screen. It supposedly is something related to the ROM.) I should say the machine was working great... until tonight. One of my fears was finally realized: the analog board is obviously going to need to be recapped soon. (Although I knew it was going to happen at some point, I was going to procrastinate on it.) Upon starting the machine tonight, it took a couple seconds for the display to come up. When it did, the image appeared to "wave" around the screen. When the machine chimed, it gave me a flashing question mark icon. The hard drive wasn't spinning. After rebooting the computer, the hard drive spun up and everything was good. However, I noticed some pincushioning on both sides of the screen. After about 1-2 minutes of the computer being on the pincushioning went away and the machine ran perfectly fine. So my question is: how difficult is it to remove and re-install the analog board? Specifically, I'm worried about the CRT and the neck board. The CRT on this machine is fairly crisp, so the last thing I want to do is to accidentally ruin it by breaking the neck or the tube itself. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Garrett

    Awful Macintosh SE FDHD Revival

    That machine has came a long ways. Great job on the restoration!
  10. I think you're the one who responded to my comment on the System 7 arcade cabinet Reddit thread. (I celebrated my Reddit "cake day" yesterday.) As for the topic at hand, I would recap the analog board but I really don't like the idea of removing the analog board. The board itself doesn't worry me, but I'm mostly worried that I may accidentally damage/destroy the CRT during the removal or re-installation process.
  11. Garrett

    Awful Macintosh SE FDHD Revival

    Yikes! That machine looks like it has seen better days. Good luck trying to revive it
  12. Garrett

    Recapping : if it ain’t broke don’t fix it?

    I believe that's @falen5 here on the 68kMLA forums. I recall seeing his massive Mac collection and being instantly jealous. I'd recommend just going ahead and replacing the capacitors, at least the logic board. But I highly recommend paying someone else to do it if you're like me and inexperienced (and/or horrible) at soldering. As others have mentioned, these caps leak. While not nearly as immediately destructive as the battery bombs, the electrolyte will eventually eat through the traces on the board causing all sorts of crazy issues and shorts.
  13. I'm the owner of the board - I didn't see this until now, but thought I'd respond just in case this helps someone else in the future. Below is a picture of the pattern displayed before the machine would chime and boot. Sometimes it would boot instantly, other times it'd boot 15-30 seconds after flipping the power switch, and other times it'd take 30 minutes or more for the machine to boot. Before removing the logic board to have it recapped, it seemed to be working fine for the most part. Here's a video of the behavior:
  14. I'm currently in the process of "restoring" my Macintosh Classic. I've seen instances online where these RIFA caps can dramatically explode, letting the magic smoke out. I'd rather not have that happen (as it would be embarrassing to set off the fire alarm in my building) even though I've heard that these computers usually function fine after the RIFA caps explode, especially since they're not necessary for operation. Should I be concerned about it? I haven't recapped my analog board since it seems to work fine, and I don't want to risk damaging the CRT to remove the analog board.
  15. Garrett

    My SE/30 died!

    I know it's been a while, but I noticed some discoloration (scorch marks?) near C9 and the molex connector in the second-to-last photo. Maybe that was part of the cause? Also, don't forget to remove that battery if it's the original.
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