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Found 3 results

  1. Today I returned to my Quadra 950 projects and discovered an odd problem. I have two of these, both were working as of a month or so ago, and today they BOTH fail to recognize the keyboard or mouse which of course makes it hard to control boot up options never mind do anything useful. Tried the obvious: different keyboards, cords, etc. and verified that the keyboard, mouse, and cables I'm using work fine on a Mac IIsi. Strange that BOTH computers developed the same symptoms at the same time. Anybody else seen this kind of problem on vintage Macs? The older they get, the more electronic issues they develop. To my knowledge these have not been re-capped. Batteries were replaced at some point in the last couple of years so I believe they are good. I may retest on another power outlet just because I find it so strange this appeared so suddenly on both machines at the same time. Any advice on troubleshooting, workarounds, or true solutions appreciated. Heartbreaking to lose my Attila the Mac pair. I'm like Noah saving the species 2 by 2. Craig
  2. Private19872

    Mac Color Classic - No Video

    Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, but I was wondering if anyone could me troubleshoot my Mac Color Classic (stock, no upgrades like Mystic or Takky). I opened the computer and replaced the original 80MB HDD with a 2.1GB disk. Before, the screen worked and it showed the blinking disk icon, but now even though the computer turns on and makes the startup chime, the screen is entirely dark. I wouldn't be surprised if this was a cable I knocked loose or forgot to reconnect when I was removing the analogue board, but so far, I haven't been able to find anything out of place. Here's what I know: The screen still builds up a charge on the outside, which leads me to believe that the issue lies with the electron gun towards the back. The computer sounds like it's booting fine, and I think I can hear the HDD being accessed. I couldn't find any unconnected cables after checking three times. All the wires leading to the video board appear to still be firmly attached to the analogue board. The metal shielding covering the edge connector in the front corner of the analogue board is missing, though the computer appears to have worked fine without it. There's electrical continuity with the ground wire from the video board all the way to the ground pin on the cord. I was about to try removing the video board from the CRT to have a look, but I figured I'd ask here first before I make any more problems for myself. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  3. Hi everyone So I have something that wouldn't really be considered unusual a very sick Macintosh Plus I have yet to see it boot or do anything else than try and kill it's self. I bought this Macintosh Plus off a Friend who had more money than sense and he bought it from Canada and had shipped here to Ireland, sadly he thought it would be a simple plug and play and he never heard of a step down converter. when he plugged straight in the Irish 250V socked it blow the crap out of it and he said it just popped. So 2 months later he offered it to me because he bought a UK one instead and I got it for a tidy €40 which is cheap on this side of the pond even for a broken one. On opening the machine I noticed 2 things the Fuse on F1 was blown looked burn't out and the thermistor on R39 was broken in half. so I replaced both of those think this may resolve the issue but both the Fuse and the thermistor blow again with spark's coming form the new thermistor and I new I did buy the right one but when I took a second look at the board both the Rectifier and Diode on CR20 and CR21 had heat damage on there legs, I have also replaced these and this fixed one issue the Thermistor no longer sparks but the fuse is still blowing when I plug it in. Yes I am using a step-down converter which I have tested that output's 117V to be exact so it should be safe. There is one more thing I can think of which is the Fuse trace lead's directly to 3 spick suppressing capacitor's the first one is a large one which I have just removed to test with a Multimeter (which I know isn't exactly accurate but my ESR meter is broken and waiting for a new one in the mail) and it has showing no signs of life on capacitance on the multimeter so I'm guessing this could be dead and causing the fuse to blow I'm not use it's only 0,1uf 250V this located on C38 and the other 2 are C33 and C37 are these known to case a fuse to blow ?. I would be very grateful for some in put on this analog board I have wanted a Macintosh Plus since my Grandad would let me play on his just a bit of nostalgia, also this Analog is starting to get expensive to repair and I'll need a solution soon before I've replaced everything on the board haha.
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