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Found 110 results

  1. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  2. megabyte

    SE/30 as MIDI sequencer

    Hi all. I'm collecting old rack synthesizers, samplers and so on. Is it possible to control all of them simultaneously from some kind of MIDI sequencing software? As I know Atari ST had Steinberg Cubase which allows to record and playback a lot of MIDI-tracks. Could I use my SE/30 for making a music on my home retro-studio? Thanks.
  3. SE30_Neal

    Se/30 sound

    Is if normal for se/30’s to crackle on certain games but not others? Lemmings is fine but duel isn’t as an example. any ideas or could the sound chip be on its way out?
  4. I’ve had an idea for a while to add Wi-Fi to my Classic Mac. I finally got around to putting it together and I think it turned out really well! I thought I’d post my experiences here for anybody interested. There was no hope of me building a PDS Wi-Fi card from scratch - but I already had a DaynaPort E/SI30 Ethernet card so I thought that I might be able to attach a Wi-Fi Bridge to the existing card via the RJ45 port. My first thought was an Arduino Yun board, which has both an Ethernet port and Wi-Fi built in – but they’re expensive, and to me it seemed overkill to use an entire Arduino/Linux solution for this. Instead, I found this Vonets VM300 Wi-Fi Module on eBay for $25 from China! At that price, I thought it was worth trying: Avocado for scale as I was out of bananas – it’s tiny! It might look daunting, but it’s very easy to set up – you plug in the Ethernet cable and connect to your Wi-Fi network via it’s inbuilt web interface: I did the initial setup on my Laptop and I was connected to my Wi-Fi network in no time. But when I tried connecting the module to my Mac, it just wouldn’t connect - all I got was a blinking link light: After a bit of web searching it became apparent that this is a common problem: modern Ethernet devices use auto-negotiate to detect the speed & duplex of the connection. The old Mac network cards pre-date this standard, so the router doesn’t detect the connection. The only way to correct the issue is to disable auto-negotiate on the router and explicitly set the connection to 10mbs / half-duplex. The issue is that virtually all modern routers don’t allow you to do this, and a first glance the Vonets VM300 was no exception - I couldn’t find any options to manually set the connection type. I thought all was lost and I’d just wasted $25… until I found the “Upgrade Firmware” button – and BOOM a new drop-down menu appeared! The instant I changed to 10mbs / half-duplex, the link light on the Mac went solid! A huge thanks to Vonets for adding this feature as obviously it’s a very niche requirement. My Mac was on the Wi-Fi! Now I just need to mount the Wi-Fi card inside my Mac to make things nice and clean. I bought a small sheet of aluminium from my local hobby shop, and I designed a basic template to cut it to size – I’ve attached the PDF template to this post. Cutting the aluminium was easy, just glue on the template and score the edges with a utility knife: Then clamp the aluminium to keep it flat, then bend the other side back and forth a few times until it snaps off cleanly. Next, I drilled some holes and bent the aluminium into a 90-degree bracket: I bought some 5mm spacers, 15mm M3 screws, bolts & washers from my local Jaycar Electronics (for the Aussies out there), and started assembling everything: Looks good and very sturdy! I then mounted the completed assembly into the Mac: I noticed that the Ethernet cable was precariously close to the CRT board, so I ended up angling up the bracket a few more degrees which worked a treat. The final problem to solve was power to the Wi-Fi card. The card comes with a USB power cable, which conveniently connects via an InLine DC connector (5V) – so I decided to build a replacement cable that would work in the Mac. I already have a SCSI2SD V6 card in my mac, which uses a 4-pin Mini-Molex connector for power - so I found this cable on eBay: Now I can power both the SCSI2SD and the Wi-Fi card. Funny story: I ordered this part on eBay and literally 15 minutes later my doorbell rang and a guy handed the part to me – weird! Molex connectors have both a 5v and 12v line in them, so I was very careful to only wire up the 5v line as otherwise my board would be fried. This was my finished cable: A soldering iron was required, and I insulated the 4-pin connector with a bit of hot glue. If you’re in Australia, the Jaycar part numbers are HM3414 for the 4-pin Mini-Molex, and PS0526 for the DC connector (it took me forever to find these!) I plugged everything in and powered up the Mac – the Link Light came on solid on the DaynaPort card, and the blue lights came on the Wi-Fi card – a quick check in the Open Transport control panel showed that I was on the network – success! I put the case back on, and I now have a Wi-Fi Mac. It works incredibly well – as soon as the machine boots up, it connects via DHCP to our home router and it’s on the network straight away Next Steps I’m a Software Dev, so I’m keen to write a System Extension to display a Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar to manage the connections – just like you would on a modern Mac. I believe that you can communicate with the Vonets module via Telnet to manage the Wi-Fi networks. I’m new to Classic Mac programming though (not a lot of demand haha) – so it will take me a while to brush up on my C skills!
  5. nickpunt

    Multiprocessor SE/30!

    "Scientists were so preoccupied with whether they or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should" In all seriousness though, has anyone ever attempted to put two accelerators in an SE/30? For example, a socketed powercache and a turbo 68040: I have no particular desire to be the first to attempt it as I don't want to see two extremely valuable parts go up in smoke, but my understanding is the Turbo040 can be enabled / disabled in software, so if this configuration worked electrically & in drivers, you could have the best of both worlds in software compatibility, given some software works better on 030s than 040s. My guess is daystar software would be rather confused by this whole arrangement, but who knows?
  6. I saw this in the Ebay Finds thread: And yes, that is a very cool feature. My first Asante card did not have this so here is the MacGruber I needed to do to run the Asante with a video card: I made the back plane out of an old PC case sheet metal with some Dremel work. The card is rotated 90 degrees so that I could use the mounting screw for the "Thick" connection to hold it in place. Because it was close to the back of the tube it is protected with a plastic sheet covered in electrical tape. Fast forward to the only real "deal" I have come across on Ebay. That was for a Misc Mac parts grab bag. It was a single auction that included 3 of the Asantes with the special detachable "Thick" daughter card and a MicroMac Carrera 040 with the IIsi card. I think it was only $65 w/ shipping. So here is one of those cards in action:
  7. The first boards have arrived, and my board wizard friend Mark, who designed it, has assembled the first prototype! We’ll likely simplify the board further. No need for a socketed EPROM if we can program the firmware via the computer, for example, allowing us to use a smaller SMD EPROM. He is in London, Ontario and I’m in London, England, so once he has finished his initial tests he’ll send it over to me and I can get started on the driver.
  8. I am starting this thread to see if there is some possibility of getting my two SE/30 motherboards repaired or replaced. In 2012, I went through my collection and realized I had two SE/30 logic boards which showed the Horizontal Lines (Simasimac) at cold boot. Those lines were stable on-screen and would display forever, meaning the SE/30 would never boot. Prior to 2012, I had recapped both boards but found they both had identical Simasimac symptoms. The two boards were recapped at different times, one being one of the very first SE/30 logic boards I ever recapped -- I used electrolytic capacitors at the time and a dab of hot glue to ensure the traces at the feet of the caps wouldn't break if I accidentally applied pressure on them. That board worked fine for a while and then suddenly stopped working. The other bad motherboard was acquired by me and recapped later using yellow Tantalum capacitors, thanks to Trag's capacitor replacement kit he sold back in the day (not sure if he still sells that now in 2018). At that time in 2012, I referenced my SE/30 schematics and spent many hours testing PCB trace integrity, not finding the root problem that was causing the horizontal lines on both boards. Eventually, I mentioned my two defective motherboards in the 68kMLA forum, and a forum member who I will simply name "TK" said he could fix them if I would ship them off to him. I am in Japan, and he is in the USA. I shipped both boards to TK in March 2012. I followed up with TK at various times, but ultimately it took 2.5 years before the boards were shipped back to me. Unfortunately, the boards were not packed properly, and although I was assured they worked before they were shipped, they both did not work when I received them. They showed horizontal lines at the time I received them, which is the same problem they have to this day. I am going to provide repair details now, but let it be know that I am not trying to speak negatively of TK. Rather, I simply need to state certain details as relevant facts for consideration by those who may be able to kindly assist me in repair or replacement. TK discussed some of the repairs in our forum, but sadly those threads were apparently lost in a forum disk crash some years back and I can no longer link them for you. However, I still have my old PM's from many years ago, thankfully. I will now list pertinent details from my old PMs for the purpose of showing what was diagnosed and what was repaired on my two SE/30 logic boards. Again, my aim is to provide detailed information to those of you who might have the knowledge and skill to repair these boards, keeping in mind that TK was quite skilled at repairs. March 2012: TK began exchanging PM's about SE/30 experiences and the board mistakes of others. He told me he saw one of my old YouTube videos showing a SimasiMac SE/30 logic board and that I should send him my board to see what he could to with it. That led to the beginning of my discussions with him and ultimately sending both of my boards to TK for repair. Upon receipt of my boards, TK told me, "One of your boards has almost a near short on the 5V rail. not a short-short, but a semi-short. So one of the ICs is bad somewhere. I am going to have to do micro-resistance analysis to find out where..." Some days later, TK said that the tantalum-recapped board "shows a cascading short on RP2, meaning several ceramic caps inside the filter are leaky/shorted." TK also said, "the other board (electrolytic-recapped) has a short on RP3 between 10 and 11 on a single chain and none of the others." TK used a heat gun to pull RP2 from the tantalum-recapped board, but he said that the heat sensor in that heat gun failed, causing the heat to rise above 800 degrees (°F?) and resulted in burn marks on the bottom side of that board. (Scroll to the bottom and see my board photos, one of which shows that burn mark.) TK said that his heat gun did NOT kill the board though. However, TK said that pulling RP2 did not fix the problem with that board. He did note that the "UD1 74F240 buffer is corroded pretty good" but did not say if that was a problem. TK saw some corrosion on the SIMM connectors and cleaned it. (Tantalum-recapped board) Even after cleaning the SIMM banks (tantalum-recapped board), the board would work only if both banks were used (1 bank couldn't be used, apparently due to a broken trace). Apparently, the Simasimac on this board was caused by "CASLL broken to the SIMM1 Bank A and B." (A broken trace to RAM.) I was told that this broken trace would cause the other negative side effect of being forced to use both banks instead of being able to use just 1 bank of RAM. TK determined that both boards had a bad BOURNS filter which needed replacing. He said he didn't have spare BOURNS filters to do the repair, however. I decided to wait and see if he could source them. TK uploaded a YouTube video his work on my board: TK told me (regarding which board he never made clear): "the ROM select line pulls low and right back high again and nothing happens from there. All data and address lines check out, so I know this isn't the issue. With ROM removed, select line remains high until NMI invoked, then it pulls low and holds, which is NORMAL. So the next thing I am going to do is check the overlay flag. If the overlay flag isn't being flipped, the GLU chip is bad." May 2012: With it having been more than 1 month, I decided to pay $18 to Trag, who very kindly was able to source 6 BOURNS filters and ship them directly to TK. I informed TK of the shipment. May 2014 (yes, 2 years later -- and yes, I had followed-up during those 2 years): Regarding Tantalum-recapped board: One BOURNS filter was determined to be bad and replaced. TK said there might also be "a bad GLU." A "bad trace to RAM" on the tantalum-recapped board was bad, and he soldered in a wire to fix. After those fixes, the board apparently still wasn't stable, resulting in death chimes on occasion during cold boot. August-September 2014: Apparently, the CPU was dead in one of the SE/30 motherboards. TK speculated that must have been caused from a bad PDS card, although I don't think so myself since my PDS cards work in my working SE/30s. So the cause of the dead CPU is a mystery. TK took a heat gun (now with repaired temperature sensor) and removed the 68030 CPU, then put it in another board and tested and confirmed the CPU to be bad. It was at this point TK decided to install CPU sockets to make insertion and removal easier. TK remarked that he has repaired "thousands of boards" but it was the first time he'd ever seen a failed CPU. TK said that long ago he had accidentally connected a NuBUS card into a PDS slot and fried the CPU, which is why he suspected something similar must have happened for my CPU to have been killed. (Which would of course mean that my case of having a fried CPU was actually the 2nd case TK had seen.) TK said the CPU tried to run but all the data bus I/O lines were pulled close to 1.8v when they should have been a little over 4v. That led TK to believe that they must have been shorted in some way to cause damage to the CPU. He went on to say that "the only cause for those is a voltage spike, or maybe an overload of the address/data bus" and that "it is unknown if there was any damage to any of the other ICs." TK quoted me $39.90 for a replacement 68030 CPU and sockets, which I promptly paid him via PayPal. October 2014: A certain knowledgeable forum member (currently, no longer a member) sent me a PM to say that TK had repaired both of my SE/30 motherboards. I asked him how he knew that, and he said, "I speak to TK privately 3 times per day!" I then added TK to our PM conversation and the following facts were explained to me: Tantalum-recapped board needed a BOURNS filter, which TK finally installed in Oct. 2014. (Most likely using 1 of the 6pcs purchased and shipped to TK via Trag in May 2012.) TK confirm both boards were fixed as of Oct. 2014. TK requested $75 for the repair, which included shipping. TK said he reduced the price due to the long time he had the boards. I received both boards in December 2014. Metal prongs that stick up in either side of the connector side of the board were bent due to the lack of soft packing material inside the box. I mention this not to case blame (although I certainly would have packed the box better), but rather to explain that the boards could have been damaged during transport, assuming they were perfectly fixed by TK prior to him shipping them to me. I never mentioned to TK that the boards failed testing on arrival because (1) I was already out a fair amount of money and no better than when I started, and (2) because it had taken 2.5 years. I put the boards back in their anti-static bags and stored them in my closet until now (Sept. 2018). Here are high resolution photos of the top and bottom sides of both of my boards, shot today: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sandxdkcxdss6h1/AABOOjMnrcSKhlD1neFlHOCna?dl=0 One person based in Germany has sent me a PM about these boards; but of course, I must consider the cost of shipping. I am providing all these details primarily for his benefit, but also for others to read too. I would like to hear varied opinions. All said, I've invested $30 (cost of shipping from Japan to USA) + $18 (BOURNS) + $39.90 (new 68030 & sockets) + $75 (repair & return shipping fees) = $169.90, which doesn't include the cost for the capacitor replacement and doesn't include the cost I originally paid to get the boards in the first place. Wow! Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  9. SE30_Neal

    ROMINATOR, RAM & 7.5.5

    Hi guys, having trouble getting my SE/30 up and running post Rominator II and ram installation. ok thats not entirely true i can boot into the Rom side and it shows its 24bit with 128MB yet wont boot into my actual HHD with the revised configuration. Please note i had 4MB and standard rom which booted fine in to 7.5.5. now I understand from big mess of wires there’s some issue with 7.5.5 and you need res edit 2.1.3 and disc copy 6.3.3. So the question. How do i fix this, do i need to downgrade my 7.5.5 to 7.5.3 if so how do i do that? Does picker help? Then do i need to take the rom and ram back out, put the old stuff back in? load res edit. This bit im unsure of too as I’ve never used res edit before. if anyone can assist whos successful upgraded there SE/30 to 128mb on 7.5.5 using the rominator to make it 32bit clean i would really appreciate any advise. On the plus side i now know all the hardware works. Neal
  10. Hoping someone can give me some advice. Issue SE/30, no bong, video shows up but the image displayed is that of a static semi random checker board - see attached images About the machine - SE/30 no HD - Removed all old caps, axials and electrolytics and replaced axials with axials and electrolytics with tantalums. - Old caps had virtually no leaking when I received the board which was shipped in an antistatic bag - Condition of board, looks clean but was purchased as untested. I only tested after replacing caps. - Battery did not leak (no battery was included with the board) What I have done. Reseated the ROM. Checked continuity for replaced caps and all pass as far as I can tell. Reworked solder (reflowed) entire section marked in yellow (see image). What I have NOT done. Visually inspected analog board (dong that in a few minutes after discharging CRT) Rework solder (reflow) the Analog board (potentially might help?) Reseat RAM Reseat Socketed Chips (but I don't have a proper tool to remove them) If you have any advice or need photos of the logic board or sections of the logic board please let me know. As I understand it this issue as a whole is know as SimasiMac. SE30_vid_issue.mov
  11. I recently found this card, and it's not one I've seen before. There are no clear identifiable markings on it other than "470E". Has anyone seen this card before?
  12. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follow along to do the ATX if it is just soldering some wires. TIA for the input! ~Von
  13. Since I am not too shy about asking for help with my myriad Quadra issues, one of the things that has been going great is my SE/30 (edit - until last week!) Here's my setup: SE/30 recapped running System 7.5.3, Mac OS 8.1 and A/UX 3.1.1 (the latter requires me to disable the 040 card) SCSI2SD (8 GB) 128 MB RAM ("new" 30-pin all purchased from MemoryX.com) BMOW ROM-inator II SIMM w/ Turbo040 driver courtesy of @olePigeon Bolle's "short" PDS adapter Asanté MacCon SE/30 Daystar Digital Turbo040 @33 MHz On my wish list: Some soldering skills to put a right-angle adapter on my "tall" Bolle adapter so I can add my Pivot IIsi (or Pivot SE/30 but don't think that will fit) for external video A working ROM image to include what I have plus the ROM disk driver (so, 68000 assembly skills) I'm really hard-pressed to come up with anything else until one of the geniuses here builds that NuBus breakout box. I took the pics a couple of weeks ago... I could leave it on for hours on end (1-bit B&W but I prefer After Dark, Star Trek:TNG) but literally, in the last few days I'm getting a slow death chime and the Simasimac. I'm hoping it's just a loose RAM SIMM or the very-finicky ROM SIMM needs to be shimmed up again. I'm not too worried unless it's something crazy like the power supply or logic board fuse. If nothing else - I can look at the pictures and sigh! Thanks for letting me share! This particular SE/30 is in great physical shape with very little discoloring and is really my favorite.
  14. Hi All, I am close to being able to put my SE/30's back together. I'd like to be able to run the machine with the motherboard out of the chassis as I saw someone on this forum doing. What I'd really like to be able to do is leave the stock cable plugged into the analog board then have an extension cable that gives ~2feet of room for the mobo to sit outside of its case. I believe the stock analog board to mobo cable is f/f. Does someone have the right crimper to build such a cable? Yes I could buy a stock cable on eBay for about $13 US but then it needs to be spliced and it wouldn't allow use of the stock cable being plugged into the analog board. THx
  15. Conquests seemed the best fit for this post so here goes... About 2007 when I started my vintage Mac collection with my first SE/30, I needed a way to get files fetched from the interwebs to the Mac form a PC-based home office . I found my way to using Netatalk on Mandrake then later on Mandriva Linux distros. Netatelk provided the ability for Mac running Systems 6-9 to connect to the PC running Linux. It is similar to Services for Macintosh available in Windows Servers all the way back to NT Server 3.51. The vintage Macs went into storage as family and house projects took priority. In 2018, time allowed me to get the old Macs out of storage... Now I had a slightly different networking problem as my home office is all current-era iMac and MBPs. I posted here about getting Netatalk going on a Lubuntu Virutal Machine running in VMware Fusion on my MacBook Pro. That article on Applefool is a fantastic guide. So all is good being able to network SE/30s and IIsi directly to the MBP. When running System 9.2.2, the G4 QuickSilver also connects via Netatalk. What also was sitting in the office were my 2 old PCs. One of them is my Museum box that boots to many OSs on 2 drives toggled with the ASUS P2BS BIOS: SCSI Drive (partitions toggled by PowerQuest BootMagic) Partition 1: (OSs toggled with the NT 4.0 boot loader) DOS 6.22 Windows for Workgroups 3.11 Windows NT Workstation 3.51 Windows NT Workstation 4.0 Partition 2: Windows 95 Partition 3: OS/2 Warp 4 Partition 4: Windows Millennium Edition IDE Drive (partitions toggled by the Win 2K boot loader) Partition 1: Windows NT Server 3.51 Windows NT Server 4.0 Partition 2: Windows 98 SE BEOS Personal Edition with loads from Win 98 SE Partition 3: Windows 2000 Partition 4: BEOS v 5.0 that boots from a 3.5 boot disk The drives in this machine were pretty old as this PC was acquired in 1998. I replaced both drives with E-Disk SSDs that I scored from eBay. So now the drives and OSs are all working and all of them (except for BEOS) could mount shares on my second PC running Win XP. The next thing I wanted to solve was being able to connect the PC OSs directly to the Lubuntu VM. I knew that Samba could likely do this and after some digging I finally got this working. Here is my post on the Ubuntu forum. Now from my MBP in can connect every old OS that I own directly to the laptop via the Lubuntu VM. When the G4 QuickSilver boots to 10.2.8, it connects to the Samba share as does the MBP. I gave my propellor beanie 3 spins after I got this sorted.
  16. Earlier today I won an auction for a Daystar Turbo 601 66mhz and I unfortunately don't have a IIci or supported model or the needed IIsi adapter to run it in my IIsi. Bolle mentioned in the Trading Post forum: I would definitely be interested in one of these if a batch were to be made. That drives a question...if one had the Turbo 601 and the needed IIsi adapter, could that not be run in a SE/30? I found several posts on the topic of getting the 601 running in SE/30 but it seems that this has not been achieved....
  17. Hi all, I have three SE/30s, one works flawlessly (Mac A), one boots into the OS but has sound has issues (Mac B, I have another topic about this one), but my issue is with the latest one (Mac C): When I got it, I did a superficial check and turned it on and it booted (without chime) into the screen. It looked pretty corroded (and no sound) so I decided on a cleaning and recap. After the recap was done, I got a nice clean chime, but now it no longer booted to the screen (see video.) During the recap I noticed the corrosion had eaten away the trace next to the negative lead of C2 which I patched by running a wire from pin 5 on UB10 to pin 50 on UI8. The other thing I did to it was remove, clean and re-solder UC8. I mentioned the other SE/30s because I thought I'd try to debug this issue by measuring (in diode mode) IC values against the other Macs. The weird thing is that both machines that boot into the OS have different values on the IC I re-soldered (UC8), pin 11 has OL on Mac B, but 1.100 V on Mac A, so I don't really know where to go from here. Has anyone got any idea what a gray screen is about? Or any other hints? I've included a couple pics of the board. Thanks!
  18. pinto_guy

    G3 to SE/30

    Hi: I'm looking at the best way to download legacy Mac software from the Internet to use on my Compact Mac (eg SE/30, CC etc..). In the past, I used my old WinXP computer and it was tedious, but it worked. Now that I have Win10, it does not work any longer. So, what is best way to do this ? I'm thinking of perhaps buying a PowerPC G3, with Zip drive (I have an external SCSI Zip that I can use on the SE/30). Would the software downloaded by it be compatible with compact Macs ? What OS should be used on the G3 that would be Internet-friendly, as well as compatible ? I read that a dual boot (9.x and 10.x) was necessary. Is this true ? Thanks in advance.
  19. Gentlemen, my aging brain needs a refresher on SE/30 RAM banks. I have four 16MB SIMMS and I know I need to use all 4 of them at a time in an SE/30, but do I put them all in Bank A or Bank B? Thank you. P.S. I tried searching this forum for "SE/30 RAM banks" knowing this topic has surely been discussed in the past, but the forum search feature gave me zero results. So either that data is missing, or I need to be instructed on the technical intricacies of how searching this forum works.
  20. SE30_Neal

    SSL email solution

    Hi guys, im just coming to end of phase 1 of my SE/30 (called zippy) revival and upgrade project, my next challenge is to get little zippy up and running thoughts a TCP/IP network with my performa 6200 and early intel mac mini which may all be a challenge in itself although i do have an installed network card. anyway my question is about Email, my primary goal is to use zippy as an email client which i know from reading is tricky due to lack of SSL and authentification in old Email software although read Baton has the authentification bit. So specs wise zippy is now 32 bit clean (rom-inator II),128mb, 1gb hhd and a fresh Mac os 7.5.5 install by installing 7.5.3 first then upgrading to 7.5.5. Now what i wanted to know is there a way around the SSL issue? I.e. running SSL and authentification through my mac mini but how does that work? As I’m not lacking space on my hhd which email software would you recommend? Now zippy is 32 bit clean is it worth pushing it to 7.6.1 or even 8 ? thanks alot for your help and advise its much appreciated. Neal
  21. belaboy

    SE/30 32-bit question

    So I acquired a Macintosh SE/30 this weekend, it was recapped, upgraded to 68MB RAM and had a SCSI2SD interface set up. Unfortunately I was naive enough to think a few months of watching YouTube videos would prepare me in handling this. I tried flashing a BasiliskII image onto the SD card thinking it would boot from there, but I guess formatting it raw like that removes the SCSI drivers, so the system doesn't read it. After finding the thread on initializing SCSI2SD on here, I realize I have to begin from scratch. I placed an order for the 7.3.5 Disk Tools disk set and began prepping for the fresh install, but then I started wondering about the 32bit processing and RAM. I know by default, the machine is 32-bit dirty, and has to be "cleaned" with MODE32 or a ROM upgrade. The thing is, I'm not 100% sure what the original owner did. So my question, assuming the ROM isn't 32-bit clean, will the OS fail to boot with the 68MB installed? There are 4 16MB and 4 1MB RAM sticks, so would I have to remove the 64MB RAM before proceeding? Honestly, how should i go about doing this in general? Not sure if it's helpful, but I'll just toss in a picture of the system info prior to me messing things up haha. Thank you
  22. My house is surrounded by snow and fallen trees so I had some free time to throw this together. I like the idea of having a custom rom in my se/30 because a 10 minute ram check is tedious every time I boot. However seeing that there are no open source projects out there for a rom-simm, and the next best thing requires an expensive programmer for no reason :^). I call this project "EconoSimm" because the total price of a unit is around $15. The major benefit comes from it using standard PLCC flash chips. So while the max memory is restricted to 2MB/16Mb anyone with a standard programmer can flash the EEPROMS. It's open source for everyone to enjoy Basically: Custom roms for less than the cost of a tank of gas Github link: Click here! Board: Totally not thrown together in gimp render: Schematic:
  23. Hi Everyone in 68k World, I'm new. I'm an amateur. I've learned a lot about soldering and electronics in the past 2 weeks. Primarily 1) Not all solder wicks are the same. Fine solder wick performs a whole lot better than course solder wick. This would have saved me hours and hours had I known. 2) I will never ever use lead-free solder again. The difference in quality of the weld and ease of use-- my crappy first attempts came out gorgeous once I changed solder. Who knew? Mac SE/30 after recap. Here's my current issue: No bong, and that pattern. I know it's not the analog board or the power supply. I have good readings across the multimeter (12v/5v). After recapping the analog board and power supply I was able to restart the computer and it booted. This pattern is after the logic board recap. I've run as many traces I can find, particularly everything surrounding my work areas. All are making contact across the work area. I've used a magnifying glass to check for solder blobs or anything abnormal, can't see anything obvious. I'm afraid I may have overheated a chip. When I was working on the 470uF axial, I had a huge problem getting the holes unplugged (see solder wick issue and lead-free solder above). I am planning on checking the 8 video out pins once my oscilloscope arrives Tuesday. I know from Tech Knight's awesome video which pins to check, and I'm learning to read the schematics. Any clues on what to check first? Anyone seen this before? I'm learning on the fly and know just how much of an idiot I can be. Enjoying the love/hate and embracing learning a new set of skills. Here's the logic board now. The one trace jump wire on the bottom was on the computer when I purchased it 10 years ago. It tests fine.
  24. I'm so close to being finished with my SE/30 restoration. Initially, it had the 1.44 MB floppy drive connected internally. After fighting with it for weeks, I pulled my 800k drive out of its external enclosure and installed that in place of the 1.44 MB. Now, when I insert a disk I'm prompted to initialize it. I thought maybe the cable was the issue, but I swapped it with a known-good one and the problem continued. I know the drive works, and that the floppy disk is good, because everything works fine when I connect the drive with the cable from the external enclosure. Any ideas on that?
  25. I just read through the CRT guide posted above and most of the talk revolved around the CRT and Analog board compatibility. My question is will the connector from the analog board work with any logic board? I understand that some boards are larger or smaller than others but my question is if they are interchangeable. I read somewhere sometime that an SE can be "upgraded" by putting in a SE/30 logic board (PDS slot size issues may happen). Basically the situation is that I have an SE/30 that I need to recap but I want to see if this Classic II logic board will work in it while I wait for the parts. Thanks in advance.
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