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Found 120 results

  1. Earlier today I won an auction for a Daystar Turbo 601 66mhz and I unfortunately don't have a IIci or supported model or the needed IIsi adapter to run it in my IIsi. Bolle mentioned in the Trading Post forum: I would definitely be interested in one of these if a batch were to be made. That drives a question...if one had the Turbo 601 and the needed IIsi adapter, could that not be run in a SE/30? I found several posts on the topic of getting the 601 running in SE/30 but it seems that this has not been achieved....
  2. Crutch

    Micron Xceed Color 30 fail

    My recently acquired Xceed Color 30 worked a few times ... then started failing intermittently (popping noise from the analog board, and bright scan lines on the screen with no video) before failing completely (same symptoms, 100% of the time). I noticed the IC at U1 gets extremely hot (painful to touch) quickly when powered up. I'm hoping that replacing it will solve my problem... two questions for people here smarter than me: 1. That IC is labeled "TIT131FS F74". I'm hoping it's one of these three flip flops. Is there a way to tell which one? Does it matter? TI SN74F74D = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=AMJt07B76usCaqNdeb4hlg%3d%3d TI SN74F74DR = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=sbcp%2f4gpy0%2bgzMKzFBFFrA%3d%3d TI SN74F74DRG4 = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=mE33ZKBHyE7Fs3ZxegDeVA%3d%3d 2. Any thoughts on something else I might be missing? Is replacing this IC actually likely to help? Thanks for any help or ideas!
  3. Question for those of you SE/30 owners who use a PDS video card with an external display. I have a Micron Xceed video card and grayscale setup. Grayscale works great on the internal CRT, but I've never used the DB-15 port also offered by the video card. I have a 15" Color VGA LCD that's about 10 years old. Would this adapter on Amazon be all that I would need? (Not sure how those DIP switches on the adapter are used in case like this though.) Note the horizontal scan rate mentioned in the Xceed manual page below of 31.5kHz, which seems rather odd (maybe common for Apple though?). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  4. I have a fully recapped SE/30 with 128MB RAM, ROMinator II Mega (with stock software still on it), and I'm booting from a FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Even though FloppyEMU is basically a floppy emulator that connects to Macs via the floppy port, "HD20 mode" allows me to create a disk image (in my case, just over 200MB) on the SD card of the FloppyEMU and boot from it, just as an Apple HD20 hard disk would boot (via the floppy port). Normally the SE/30 cannot boot from an HD20, but the ROMinator II fixes that problem and allows booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode and even from a real HD20. Currently, I am using System 6.0.8 on my FloppyEMU. Everything works fine and as expected EXCEPT for MultiFinder. For some reason I don't understand, MultiFinder won't load when I boot System 6 from my FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. (You always know when MultiFinder loads because you can see a little icon in the upper right of the menubar. When MultiFinder doesn't load, as in my case, that icon is missing.) No matter what I do, I can't get MultiFinder to load when booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Yet if I boot from a spinning platter HDD (external SCSI drive) into System 6.0.8, MultiFinder loads just fine. I've tried copying MultiFinder from my HDD to my FloppyEMU without success, and I've tried a fresh copy of MultiFinder from System 6.0.8 install disks too, which doesn't work either. (I am booting in 24-bit addressing mode.) Those of you who have both a ROMinator II and FloppyEMU in HD20 mode booting System 6, have you experienced this problem with MultiFinder?
  5. I've had several PhoneNet adapters in my collection for many years but never used them since my SE/30 has an Ethernet card. But today I was thinking about multiplayer games like MazeWars which might be fun for myself and my two kids. I have a Mac 512k (64k ROMs) and a PhoneNet adapter for it (including terminating resistor), and I also have two Farallon PhoneNet adapters with round connectors for use with more modern Compact Macs like the SE/30 shown here: I am running System 6.0.8 and System 7.1 and 7.5.5 on my two SE/30's, and I have pre-System6 operating systems on floppies for my Mac512 (again, which has the original 64k ROMs, not the newer 128k ROMs of the Mac 512kE or Plus). Since I've never used PhoneNet before, I have the following questions: 1. Can one even play games like MazeWars across different Macs and operating systems? (A Mac 512k is quite different from an SE/30 in terms of floppy disk drive capacity, ROM, RAM and OS compatibility.) 2. What specific software must I have installed on System 6.0.8, System 7.1 and pre-System6 Macs? And, is there a minimum System version for this to work? (Is use of a 400k boot floppy out of the question?) 3. Can I use regular telephone wire? (The kind of wire you'd use to connect a wired phone to a wall socket?) 4. Say I have my Mac512 and both SE/30's all connected via the PhoneNet adapters, and say I have all the required software installed. Now let's say I sit down at the Mac512. I assume I will see both SE/30's in the Chooser? And do I select both SE/30's in the Chooser to start networking with them? 5. Will this LocalTalk setup work with pretty much any multi-player networked Mac game? Thanks. P.S. Yes, I am aware of the Definitive Guide to Networking, but it doesn't answer my questions specifically. Indeed, answers to my questions above may become the new definitive guide since they don't seem to be answered briefly and specifically elsewhere.
  6. fimbulvetr

    Daystar SE/30 Powercache help

    I have been playing around with my new SE/30 with a Daystar SE/30 Powercache for the socketed motherboard, and I have a few questions about what is needed to run it. I have OS 7.5.5 on my computer, and I installed the Daystar Power Central v1.3 control panel, which is the only one I could find. I should be using v2.2 with OS 7.7 according to this: http://lowendmac.com/daystar/pages/dsd_products/support/upgrades/faq_03040.html Does it matter that I am using v1.3 and not v2.2? I am considering installing OS 7.1 instead, as I prefer it. Plus I managed to snag a IIsi rom on ebay for $12 and I am a bit intimidated by the number of steps in getting it to work properly under OS 7.5. On the other hand, this computer also has an Asante ethernet card, and from what I gather there is a bit of futzing to get that fully functional under OS 7.1.
  7. MacinPosh

    SE/30 burnt ROM socket

    I was in the process of cleaning and recapping an SE/30 logic board which had been subjected to a battery leakage. I've checked and rerouted all the rotted traces (totalling about 15) between the RAM, ROM, VROM and GLU but when I was satisfied enough to attempt a boot, pin 63 on the ROM burnt out (causing pin 64 to fall off, but pin 63 was definitely the offender) leaving me with a dead SE/30. Any ideas what might have caused the sudden burning on the ROM? I've checked it in another machine and now it only boots a grey screen with death chimes. Maybe there is a short I haven't noticed, or there are broken internal traces too? Any suggestions are much appreciated, but I fear this machine is un-repairable.
  8. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  9. nickpunt

    Multiprocessor SE/30!

    "Scientists were so preoccupied with whether they or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should" In all seriousness though, has anyone ever attempted to put two accelerators in an SE/30? For example, a socketed powercache and a turbo 68040: I have no particular desire to be the first to attempt it as I don't want to see two extremely valuable parts go up in smoke, but my understanding is the Turbo040 can be enabled / disabled in software, so if this configuration worked electrically & in drivers, you could have the best of both worlds in software compatibility, given some software works better on 030s than 040s. My guess is daystar software would be rather confused by this whole arrangement, but who knows?
  10. SE30_Neal

    VRAM SE/30

    Ok guys as micron cards are either rarer than hens teeth or more expensive than the Cullinan diamond can you upgrade THE SE/30’s on board 64kb Video RAM, i.e could you replace it with say a 256kb or 512kb chip? I presume this 64kb chip is soldered on the motherboard somewhere, what chip is it? Or is it just a pipedream and really thetr isn’t a way to up the spec without such a micron card? I ask as im using mine for graphics which is perhaps hadly the perfect machine but fun nevertheless neal
  11. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  12. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  13. jupo

    SE/30s with dim CRTs

    Hey, all. I have four SE/30s out of a large stash that have been in storage (long story) for years. I started going through them this week and I think all four logic boards are generally in working order after a thorough cleaning (apart from obviously needing recapped). But what seems to be new is that all four of them have terribly dim screens. I tried playing with the brightness pot on the analog board on one of them and although it did raise the brightness, it also became blurry and introduced diagonal lines unless I turn the front brightness knob back down to about half to 1/3 as bright as the Plus or SE sitting next to it. I've been digging around but haven't seen any clear answers. I don't see visible issues with the capacitors on the analog boards, but is this where I should start anyway? Or the flyback? Or is scavenging a tube maybe from one of the SE's my only option? Appreciate any and all advice...
  14. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in that thread. I make videos for the enjoyment of it and as a way to give back to the community. I currently don't allow ADs on my videos nor do I have a Patreon account, which is why I've never earned any monetary compensation at all from my videos. (The down side of that is Google doesn't suggest my videos as well as videos with ADs enabled.) I make videos that I really wish someone else had made for me. Even though what you see in my videos isn't necessarily groundbreaking or unique (some of you are far beyond me in terms of troubleshooting knowledge, repairs and mods, for example), I simply am transforming into an easy-to-digest video what otherwise has been exclusively found in "text form" in forums like this. For the new generation of younger people who don't prefer to read, videos are becoming increasingly important. (Even so, I still get Millennials complain my videos are too long, so we can't please everyone. I prefer to be thorough rather than worry about the clock though.) My next video endeavor will be to show the recapping of an SE/30 analog board, and then I will have yet another video showing the recapping of the SONY PSU. Anyway, I hope this information is useful not only for you DiiMO owners but also for those of you who need to recap 5V voltage rails, as the Niobium Oxide caps I chose work perfectly for that, assuming you need 22uF. They come in other sizes though so give them due consideration in your recapping jobs.
  15. megabyte

    SE/30 as MIDI sequencer

    Hi all. I'm collecting old rack synthesizers, samplers and so on. Is it possible to control all of them simultaneously from some kind of MIDI sequencing software? As I know Atari ST had Steinberg Cubase which allows to record and playback a lot of MIDI-tracks. Could I use my SE/30 for making a music on my home retro-studio? Thanks.
  16. SE30_Neal

    Se/30 sound

    Is if normal for se/30’s to crackle on certain games but not others? Lemmings is fine but duel isn’t as an example. any ideas or could the sound chip be on its way out?
  17. I’ve had an idea for a while to add Wi-Fi to my Classic Mac. I finally got around to putting it together and I think it turned out really well! I thought I’d post my experiences here for anybody interested. There was no hope of me building a PDS Wi-Fi card from scratch - but I already had a DaynaPort E/SI30 Ethernet card so I thought that I might be able to attach a Wi-Fi Bridge to the existing card via the RJ45 port. My first thought was an Arduino Yun board, which has both an Ethernet port and Wi-Fi built in – but they’re expensive, and to me it seemed overkill to use an entire Arduino/Linux solution for this. Instead, I found this Vonets VM300 Wi-Fi Module on eBay for $25 from China! At that price, I thought it was worth trying: Avocado for scale as I was out of bananas – it’s tiny! It might look daunting, but it’s very easy to set up – you plug in the Ethernet cable and connect to your Wi-Fi network via it’s inbuilt web interface: I did the initial setup on my Laptop and I was connected to my Wi-Fi network in no time. But when I tried connecting the module to my Mac, it just wouldn’t connect - all I got was a blinking link light: After a bit of web searching it became apparent that this is a common problem: modern Ethernet devices use auto-negotiate to detect the speed & duplex of the connection. The old Mac network cards pre-date this standard, so the router doesn’t detect the connection. The only way to correct the issue is to disable auto-negotiate on the router and explicitly set the connection to 10mbs / half-duplex. The issue is that virtually all modern routers don’t allow you to do this, and a first glance the Vonets VM300 was no exception - I couldn’t find any options to manually set the connection type. I thought all was lost and I’d just wasted $25… until I found the “Upgrade Firmware” button – and BOOM a new drop-down menu appeared! The instant I changed to 10mbs / half-duplex, the link light on the Mac went solid! A huge thanks to Vonets for adding this feature as obviously it’s a very niche requirement. My Mac was on the Wi-Fi! Now I just need to mount the Wi-Fi card inside my Mac to make things nice and clean. I bought a small sheet of aluminium from my local hobby shop, and I designed a basic template to cut it to size – I’ve attached the PDF template to this post. Cutting the aluminium was easy, just glue on the template and score the edges with a utility knife: Then clamp the aluminium to keep it flat, then bend the other side back and forth a few times until it snaps off cleanly. Next, I drilled some holes and bent the aluminium into a 90-degree bracket: I bought some 5mm spacers, 15mm M3 screws, bolts & washers from my local Jaycar Electronics (for the Aussies out there), and started assembling everything: Looks good and very sturdy! I then mounted the completed assembly into the Mac: I noticed that the Ethernet cable was precariously close to the CRT board, so I ended up angling up the bracket a few more degrees which worked a treat. The final problem to solve was power to the Wi-Fi card. The card comes with a USB power cable, which conveniently connects via an InLine DC connector (5V) – so I decided to build a replacement cable that would work in the Mac. I already have a SCSI2SD V6 card in my mac, which uses a 4-pin Mini-Molex connector for power - so I found this cable on eBay: Now I can power both the SCSI2SD and the Wi-Fi card. Funny story: I ordered this part on eBay and literally 15 minutes later my doorbell rang and a guy handed the part to me – weird! Molex connectors have both a 5v and 12v line in them, so I was very careful to only wire up the 5v line as otherwise my board would be fried. This was my finished cable: A soldering iron was required, and I insulated the 4-pin connector with a bit of hot glue. If you’re in Australia, the Jaycar part numbers are HM3414 for the 4-pin Mini-Molex, and PS0526 for the DC connector (it took me forever to find these!) I plugged everything in and powered up the Mac – the Link Light came on solid on the DaynaPort card, and the blue lights came on the Wi-Fi card – a quick check in the Open Transport control panel showed that I was on the network – success! I put the case back on, and I now have a Wi-Fi Mac. It works incredibly well – as soon as the machine boots up, it connects via DHCP to our home router and it’s on the network straight away Next Steps I’m a Software Dev, so I’m keen to write a System Extension to display a Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar to manage the connections – just like you would on a modern Mac. I believe that you can communicate with the Vonets module via Telnet to manage the Wi-Fi networks. I’m new to Classic Mac programming though (not a lot of demand haha) – so it will take me a while to brush up on my C skills!
  18. I saw this in the Ebay Finds thread: And yes, that is a very cool feature. My first Asante card did not have this so here is the MacGruber I needed to do to run the Asante with a video card: I made the back plane out of an old PC case sheet metal with some Dremel work. The card is rotated 90 degrees so that I could use the mounting screw for the "Thick" connection to hold it in place. Because it was close to the back of the tube it is protected with a plastic sheet covered in electrical tape. Fast forward to the only real "deal" I have come across on Ebay. That was for a Misc Mac parts grab bag. It was a single auction that included 3 of the Asantes with the special detachable "Thick" daughter card and a MicroMac Carrera 040 with the IIsi card. I think it was only $65 w/ shipping. So here is one of those cards in action:
  19. The first boards have arrived, and my board wizard friend Mark, who designed it, has assembled the first prototype! We’ll likely simplify the board further. No need for a socketed EPROM if we can program the firmware via the computer, for example, allowing us to use a smaller SMD EPROM. He is in London, Ontario and I’m in London, England, so once he has finished his initial tests he’ll send it over to me and I can get started on the driver.
  20. I am starting this thread to see if there is some possibility of getting my two SE/30 motherboards repaired or replaced. In 2012, I went through my collection and realized I had two SE/30 logic boards which showed the Horizontal Lines (Simasimac) at cold boot. Those lines were stable on-screen and would display forever, meaning the SE/30 would never boot. Prior to 2012, I had recapped both boards but found they both had identical Simasimac symptoms. The two boards were recapped at different times, one being one of the very first SE/30 logic boards I ever recapped -- I used electrolytic capacitors at the time and a dab of hot glue to ensure the traces at the feet of the caps wouldn't break if I accidentally applied pressure on them. That board worked fine for a while and then suddenly stopped working. The other bad motherboard was acquired by me and recapped later using yellow Tantalum capacitors, thanks to Trag's capacitor replacement kit he sold back in the day (not sure if he still sells that now in 2018). At that time in 2012, I referenced my SE/30 schematics and spent many hours testing PCB trace integrity, not finding the root problem that was causing the horizontal lines on both boards. Eventually, I mentioned my two defective motherboards in the 68kMLA forum, and a forum member who I will simply name "TK" said he could fix them if I would ship them off to him. I am in Japan, and he is in the USA. I shipped both boards to TK in March 2012. I followed up with TK at various times, but ultimately it took 2.5 years before the boards were shipped back to me. Unfortunately, the boards were not packed properly, and although I was assured they worked before they were shipped, they both did not work when I received them. They showed horizontal lines at the time I received them, which is the same problem they have to this day. I am going to provide repair details now, but let it be know that I am not trying to speak negatively of TK. Rather, I simply need to state certain details as relevant facts for consideration by those who may be able to kindly assist me in repair or replacement. TK discussed some of the repairs in our forum, but sadly those threads were apparently lost in a forum disk crash some years back and I can no longer link them for you. However, I still have my old PM's from many years ago, thankfully. I will now list pertinent details from my old PMs for the purpose of showing what was diagnosed and what was repaired on my two SE/30 logic boards. Again, my aim is to provide detailed information to those of you who might have the knowledge and skill to repair these boards, keeping in mind that TK was quite skilled at repairs. March 2012: TK began exchanging PM's about SE/30 experiences and the board mistakes of others. He told me he saw one of my old YouTube videos showing a SimasiMac SE/30 logic board and that I should send him my board to see what he could to with it. That led to the beginning of my discussions with him and ultimately sending both of my boards to TK for repair. Upon receipt of my boards, TK told me, "One of your boards has almost a near short on the 5V rail. not a short-short, but a semi-short. So one of the ICs is bad somewhere. I am going to have to do micro-resistance analysis to find out where..." Some days later, TK said that the tantalum-recapped board "shows a cascading short on RP2, meaning several ceramic caps inside the filter are leaky/shorted." TK also said, "the other board (electrolytic-recapped) has a short on RP3 between 10 and 11 on a single chain and none of the others." TK used a heat gun to pull RP2 from the tantalum-recapped board, but he said that the heat sensor in that heat gun failed, causing the heat to rise above 800 degrees (°F?) and resulted in burn marks on the bottom side of that board. (Scroll to the bottom and see my board photos, one of which shows that burn mark.) TK said that his heat gun did NOT kill the board though. However, TK said that pulling RP2 did not fix the problem with that board. He did note that the "UD1 74F240 buffer is corroded pretty good" but did not say if that was a problem. TK saw some corrosion on the SIMM connectors and cleaned it. (Tantalum-recapped board) Even after cleaning the SIMM banks (tantalum-recapped board), the board would work only if both banks were used (1 bank couldn't be used, apparently due to a broken trace). Apparently, the Simasimac on this board was caused by "CASLL broken to the SIMM1 Bank A and B." (A broken trace to RAM.) I was told that this broken trace would cause the other negative side effect of being forced to use both banks instead of being able to use just 1 bank of RAM. TK determined that both boards had a bad BOURNS filter which needed replacing. He said he didn't have spare BOURNS filters to do the repair, however. I decided to wait and see if he could source them. TK uploaded a YouTube video his work on my board: TK told me (regarding which board he never made clear): "the ROM select line pulls low and right back high again and nothing happens from there. All data and address lines check out, so I know this isn't the issue. With ROM removed, select line remains high until NMI invoked, then it pulls low and holds, which is NORMAL. So the next thing I am going to do is check the overlay flag. If the overlay flag isn't being flipped, the GLU chip is bad." May 2012: With it having been more than 1 month, I decided to pay $18 to Trag, who very kindly was able to source 6 BOURNS filters and ship them directly to TK. I informed TK of the shipment. May 2014 (yes, 2 years later -- and yes, I had followed-up during those 2 years): Regarding Tantalum-recapped board: One BOURNS filter was determined to be bad and replaced. TK said there might also be "a bad GLU." A "bad trace to RAM" on the tantalum-recapped board was bad, and he soldered in a wire to fix. After those fixes, the board apparently still wasn't stable, resulting in death chimes on occasion during cold boot. August-September 2014: Apparently, the CPU was dead in one of the SE/30 motherboards. TK speculated that must have been caused from a bad PDS card, although I don't think so myself since my PDS cards work in my working SE/30s. So the cause of the dead CPU is a mystery. TK took a heat gun (now with repaired temperature sensor) and removed the 68030 CPU, then put it in another board and tested and confirmed the CPU to be bad. It was at this point TK decided to install CPU sockets to make insertion and removal easier. TK remarked that he has repaired "thousands of boards" but it was the first time he'd ever seen a failed CPU. TK said that long ago he had accidentally connected a NuBUS card into a PDS slot and fried the CPU, which is why he suspected something similar must have happened for my CPU to have been killed. (Which would of course mean that my case of having a fried CPU was actually the 2nd case TK had seen.) TK said the CPU tried to run but all the data bus I/O lines were pulled close to 1.8v when they should have been a little over 4v. That led TK to believe that they must have been shorted in some way to cause damage to the CPU. He went on to say that "the only cause for those is a voltage spike, or maybe an overload of the address/data bus" and that "it is unknown if there was any damage to any of the other ICs." TK quoted me $39.90 for a replacement 68030 CPU and sockets, which I promptly paid him via PayPal. October 2014: A certain knowledgeable forum member (currently, no longer a member) sent me a PM to say that TK had repaired both of my SE/30 motherboards. I asked him how he knew that, and he said, "I speak to TK privately 3 times per day!" I then added TK to our PM conversation and the following facts were explained to me: Tantalum-recapped board needed a BOURNS filter, which TK finally installed in Oct. 2014. (Most likely using 1 of the 6pcs purchased and shipped to TK via Trag in May 2012.) TK confirm both boards were fixed as of Oct. 2014. TK requested $75 for the repair, which included shipping. TK said he reduced the price due to the long time he had the boards. I received both boards in December 2014. Metal prongs that stick up in either side of the connector side of the board were bent due to the lack of soft packing material inside the box. I mention this not to case blame (although I certainly would have packed the box better), but rather to explain that the boards could have been damaged during transport, assuming they were perfectly fixed by TK prior to him shipping them to me. I never mentioned to TK that the boards failed testing on arrival because (1) I was already out a fair amount of money and no better than when I started, and (2) because it had taken 2.5 years. I put the boards back in their anti-static bags and stored them in my closet until now (Sept. 2018). Here are high resolution photos of the top and bottom sides of both of my boards, shot today: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sandxdkcxdss6h1/AABOOjMnrcSKhlD1neFlHOCna?dl=0 One person based in Germany has sent me a PM about these boards; but of course, I must consider the cost of shipping. I am providing all these details primarily for his benefit, but also for others to read too. I would like to hear varied opinions. All said, I've invested $30 (cost of shipping from Japan to USA) + $18 (BOURNS) + $39.90 (new 68030 & sockets) + $75 (repair & return shipping fees) = $169.90, which doesn't include the cost for the capacitor replacement and doesn't include the cost I originally paid to get the boards in the first place. Wow! Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  21. SE30_Neal

    ROMINATOR, RAM & 7.5.5

    Hi guys, having trouble getting my SE/30 up and running post Rominator II and ram installation. ok thats not entirely true i can boot into the Rom side and it shows its 24bit with 128MB yet wont boot into my actual HHD with the revised configuration. Please note i had 4MB and standard rom which booted fine in to 7.5.5. now I understand from big mess of wires there’s some issue with 7.5.5 and you need res edit 2.1.3 and disc copy 6.3.3. So the question. How do i fix this, do i need to downgrade my 7.5.5 to 7.5.3 if so how do i do that? Does picker help? Then do i need to take the rom and ram back out, put the old stuff back in? load res edit. This bit im unsure of too as I’ve never used res edit before. if anyone can assist whos successful upgraded there SE/30 to 128mb on 7.5.5 using the rominator to make it 32bit clean i would really appreciate any advise. On the plus side i now know all the hardware works. Neal
  22. Hoping someone can give me some advice. Issue SE/30, no bong, video shows up but the image displayed is that of a static semi random checker board - see attached images About the machine - SE/30 no HD - Removed all old caps, axials and electrolytics and replaced axials with axials and electrolytics with tantalums. - Old caps had virtually no leaking when I received the board which was shipped in an antistatic bag - Condition of board, looks clean but was purchased as untested. I only tested after replacing caps. - Battery did not leak (no battery was included with the board) What I have done. Reseated the ROM. Checked continuity for replaced caps and all pass as far as I can tell. Reworked solder (reflowed) entire section marked in yellow (see image). What I have NOT done. Visually inspected analog board (dong that in a few minutes after discharging CRT) Rework solder (reflow) the Analog board (potentially might help?) Reseat RAM Reseat Socketed Chips (but I don't have a proper tool to remove them) If you have any advice or need photos of the logic board or sections of the logic board please let me know. As I understand it this issue as a whole is know as SimasiMac. SE30_vid_issue.mov
  23. I recently found this card, and it's not one I've seen before. There are no clear identifiable markings on it other than "470E". Has anyone seen this card before?
  24. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follow along to do the ATX if it is just soldering some wires. TIA for the input! ~Von
  25. Since I am not too shy about asking for help with my myriad Quadra issues, one of the things that has been going great is my SE/30 (edit - until last week!) Here's my setup: SE/30 recapped running System 7.5.3, Mac OS 8.1 and A/UX 3.1.1 (the latter requires me to disable the 040 card) SCSI2SD (8 GB) 128 MB RAM ("new" 30-pin all purchased from MemoryX.com) BMOW ROM-inator II SIMM w/ Turbo040 driver courtesy of @olePigeon Bolle's "short" PDS adapter Asanté MacCon SE/30 Daystar Digital Turbo040 @33 MHz On my wish list: Some soldering skills to put a right-angle adapter on my "tall" Bolle adapter so I can add my Pivot IIsi (or Pivot SE/30 but don't think that will fit) for external video A working ROM image to include what I have plus the ROM disk driver (so, 68000 assembly skills) I'm really hard-pressed to come up with anything else until one of the geniuses here builds that NuBus breakout box. I took the pics a couple of weeks ago... I could leave it on for hours on end (1-bit B&W but I prefer After Dark, Star Trek:TNG) but literally, in the last few days I'm getting a slow death chime and the Simasimac. I'm hoping it's just a loose RAM SIMM or the very-finicky ROM SIMM needs to be shimmed up again. I'm not too worried unless it's something crazy like the power supply or logic board fuse. If nothing else - I can look at the pictures and sigh! Thanks for letting me share! This particular SE/30 is in great physical shape with very little discoloring and is really my favorite.