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Found 132 results

  1. Since I am not too shy about asking for help with my myriad Quadra issues, one of the things that has been going great is my SE/30 (edit - until last week!) Here's my setup: SE/30 recapped running System 7.5.3, Mac OS 8.1 and A/UX 3.1.1 (the latter requires me to disable the 040 card) SCSI2SD (8 GB) 128 MB RAM ("new" 30-pin all purchased from MemoryX.com) BMOW ROM-inator II SIMM w/ Turbo040 driver courtesy of @olePigeon Bolle's "short" PDS adapter Asanté MacCon SE/30 Daystar Digital Turbo040 @33 MHz On my wish list: Some soldering skills to put a right-angle adapter on my "tall" Bolle adapter so I can add my Pivot IIsi (or Pivot SE/30 but don't think that will fit) for external video A working ROM image to include what I have plus the ROM disk driver (so, 68000 assembly skills) I'm really hard-pressed to come up with anything else until one of the geniuses here builds that NuBus breakout box. I took the pics a couple of weeks ago... I could leave it on for hours on end (1-bit B&W but I prefer After Dark, Star Trek:TNG) but literally, in the last few days I'm getting a slow death chime and the Simasimac. I'm hoping it's just a loose RAM SIMM or the very-finicky ROM SIMM needs to be shimmed up again. I'm not too worried unless it's something crazy like the power supply or logic board fuse. If nothing else - I can look at the pictures and sigh! Thanks for letting me share! This particular SE/30 is in great physical shape with very little discoloring and is really my favorite.
  2. I’ve had an idea for a while to add Wi-Fi to my Classic Mac. I finally got around to putting it together and I think it turned out really well! I thought I’d post my experiences here for anybody interested. There was no hope of me building a PDS Wi-Fi card from scratch - but I already had a DaynaPort E/SI30 Ethernet card so I thought that I might be able to attach a Wi-Fi Bridge to the existing card via the RJ45 port. My first thought was an Arduino Yun board, which has both an Ethernet port and Wi-Fi built in – but they’re expensive, and to me it seemed overkill to use an entire Arduino/Linux solution for this. Instead, I found this Vonets VM300 Wi-Fi Module on eBay for $25 from China! At that price, I thought it was worth trying: Avocado for scale as I was out of bananas – it’s tiny! It might look daunting, but it’s very easy to set up – you plug in the Ethernet cable and connect to your Wi-Fi network via it’s inbuilt web interface: I did the initial setup on my Laptop and I was connected to my Wi-Fi network in no time. But when I tried connecting the module to my Mac, it just wouldn’t connect - all I got was a blinking link light: After a bit of web searching it became apparent that this is a common problem: modern Ethernet devices use auto-negotiate to detect the speed & duplex of the connection. The old Mac network cards pre-date this standard, so the router doesn’t detect the connection. The only way to correct the issue is to disable auto-negotiate on the router and explicitly set the connection to 10mbs / half-duplex. The issue is that virtually all modern routers don’t allow you to do this, and a first glance the Vonets VM300 was no exception - I couldn’t find any options to manually set the connection type. I thought all was lost and I’d just wasted $25… until I found the “Upgrade Firmware” button – and BOOM a new drop-down menu appeared! The instant I changed to 10mbs / half-duplex, the link light on the Mac went solid! A huge thanks to Vonets for adding this feature as obviously it’s a very niche requirement. My Mac was on the Wi-Fi! Now I just need to mount the Wi-Fi card inside my Mac to make things nice and clean. I bought a small sheet of aluminium from my local hobby shop, and I designed a basic template to cut it to size – I’ve attached the PDF template to this post. Cutting the aluminium was easy, just glue on the template and score the edges with a utility knife: Then clamp the aluminium to keep it flat, then bend the other side back and forth a few times until it snaps off cleanly. Next, I drilled some holes and bent the aluminium into a 90-degree bracket: I bought some 5mm spacers, 15mm M3 screws, bolts & washers from my local Jaycar Electronics (for the Aussies out there), and started assembling everything: Looks good and very sturdy! I then mounted the completed assembly into the Mac: I noticed that the Ethernet cable was precariously close to the CRT board, so I ended up angling up the bracket a few more degrees which worked a treat. The final problem to solve was power to the Wi-Fi card. The card comes with a USB power cable, which conveniently connects via an InLine DC connector (5V) – so I decided to build a replacement cable that would work in the Mac. I already have a SCSI2SD V6 card in my mac, which uses a 4-pin Mini-Molex connector for power - so I found this cable on eBay: Now I can power both the SCSI2SD and the Wi-Fi card. Funny story: I ordered this part on eBay and literally 15 minutes later my doorbell rang and a guy handed the part to me – weird! Molex connectors have both a 5v and 12v line in them, so I was very careful to only wire up the 5v line as otherwise my board would be fried. This was my finished cable: A soldering iron was required, and I insulated the 4-pin connector with a bit of hot glue. If you’re in Australia, the Jaycar part numbers are HM3414 for the 4-pin Mini-Molex, and PS0526 for the DC connector (it took me forever to find these!) I plugged everything in and powered up the Mac – the Link Light came on solid on the DaynaPort card, and the blue lights came on the Wi-Fi card – a quick check in the Open Transport control panel showed that I was on the network – success! I put the case back on, and I now have a Wi-Fi Mac. It works incredibly well – as soon as the machine boots up, it connects via DHCP to our home router and it’s on the network straight away Next Steps I’m a Software Dev, so I’m keen to write a System Extension to display a Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar to manage the connections – just like you would on a modern Mac. I believe that you can communicate with the Vonets module via Telnet to manage the Wi-Fi networks. I’m new to Classic Mac programming though (not a lot of demand haha) – so it will take me a while to brush up on my C skills!
  3. Hi All, One of my SE/30s is getting its motherboard recapped and this is what is PSU looks like with leaky goo: The machine has a new old stock analog board and will have the following when completed: Micron Video card with grayscale adaptere Daystar 50 mhz accelerator that goes plugs into the socketed motherboard Asante Ethernet Given this planned configuration, would you recommend getting the PS recapped or heading down the path of hacking in an ATX power supply? FWIW, reecapping is not in my skill set but I think I could follow along to do the ATX if it is just soldering some wires. TIA for the input! ~Von
  4. kahlil88

    CC and SE30 damaged pads

    Destroyed a few pads on my CC and SE/30 boards. CC was the first board I tried to re-cap, with my rusty soldering skills and not the best iron. My electronics guru helped reconstruct most of the traces but we couldn't get this last one and I can't tell what it connects to. SE/30 recap went smoothly (I learned from my mistakes with the CC and took it slow) but I broke a pin off UF8 and then killed 4 traces trying to remove it!
  5. Hello I am doing a complete cleanup and visual inspection before I go through repairing the logic board. Anyway, I noticed that once I removed the anode cap a red sticky material was found on the anode cap and the anode aperture. I wonder what this material is, I imagine it is there to act as a glue to keep the cap in place, or at least help it stay in place. I am wondering if anyone has more info and whether this material is critical if so, I have wiped some off when it occurred to me that it is likely needed. I would truly appreciate any information. Kind regards —Alex Santos
  6. I've been working on a new video focused on SE and SE/30 fan upgrades over the last month and a half. I don't have any machines with the old squirrel cage fan, but I am aware many SE owners are. I want to add info in my video for those folks. I've searched this forum for "squirrel cage" and read through a lot of posts, but no one has provided a step-by-step upgrade with photos. Uniserver said that in his opinion it was the best fan because it moves a lot of air and is quiet, although he admits that it's noisy when dirty; and the reality is fans get dirty faster than you think. The boxer fans in contrast remain about the same in volume even with a bit of crud on them. Plus, the boxer fans are sold today whereas the squirrel cage fan is not. Anyway, I want to confirm with those of you who have done this squirrel-to-boxer fan upgrade how you did it. Specifically, if all you have is an older SE analog board with the squirrel cage fan, removing that fan means you have no metal bracket for mounting a replacement 60mm fan. (Newer analog boards had 60mm boxer fans.) I did find the following post: But "Velcro"? Really? Seems like it would wobble around after a while. In any case, I'd love to see a photo of that. Another post I found was this: But that is only for a 50x20mm fan, which I personally would not use because it's too small. Even most 60mm fans are rather small in terms of their airflow. Anything smaller would either not move much air at all or need to ramp up the rpms and be noisy to move sufficient air. If anyone knows of someone who created a 3D printable bracket, that would perhaps be the ideal solution. It might a bit more sound damping too as compared to the stock metal bracket, but one would need to print and test such a plastic bracket to know for certain. Any thoughts, suggestions and photos you are willing to share would be appreciated. Thank you.
  7. Question for those of you SE/30 owners who use a PDS video card with an external display. I have a Micron Xceed video card and grayscale setup. Grayscale works great on the internal CRT, but I've never used the DB-15 port also offered by the video card. I have a 15" Color VGA LCD that's about 10 years old. Would this adapter on Amazon be all that I would need? (Not sure how those DIP switches on the adapter are used in case like this though.) Note the horizontal scan rate mentioned in the Xceed manual page below of 31.5kHz, which seems rather odd (maybe common for Apple though?). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Just this christmas I got a macintosh se/30. I did a recap on it to bring back the sound and to bring back the occasional boot issues with the internal scsi. The internal scsi boots fine now no matter what, but neither my external scsi or external floppy ports boot. The machine starts up and when any external sources is in it gives the flashing floppy. Now I know its not the floppy since Its a emu and it works on my se and my plus. And I know its not my external scsi because It works fine when I use it on my other machines and it works when I put it in the machine. And yes there isn't the slightest of corrosion on the board, I was so surprised to see it in such good condition inside. I have cleaned both the ram slots and the ram. I also cleaned the slot for the rom and the rom itself. It boots fine with an internal but not external. It sees its there because it freezes at boot up to try and boot from the sources but it just wont from either.
  9. SE30_Neal

    Assigning SCSI chains

    hi guys, I’m looking to daisy chain SCSI peripherals to my SE/30, i’ve not done this before and could do with some advise as i notice some of the peripherals require assigning a scsi daisy chain number others don’t, i have the following:- -Zip100 no scsi assignment number -AVID external HHD has assignment number. -Apple 300 CD-ROM has assignment number. -None branded CD-ROM no assignment number. -UMAX Astra 610 Flatbed scanner also has assignment number. i would like to set up the daisy chain to my SE/30 so questions are: 1.) do i have to set them up in any kind of priority order, ie those with auto numbering first or hhd first 2.) do i need to have them in order of the chain ie if say the avid hhd is first link in chain that must be 1 i know the last in chain requires a terminator which is fine as i have one. any advice of setup would be most helpful. thanks Neal
  10. kahlil88

    Mac SE/30 no video after re-cap

    Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of which it was used as a door stop at my old high school). Re-cap went smoothly, and afterwards I cleaned the board with soap and a toothbrush, pressure washed with hot water, then shook and sat to dry overnight. Powered on the next day and I get a chime but no video. I decided to have a go at re-flowing UE8, UF8 and the other chips in that row, along with all the caps I had replaced (a few weren't as flat as they could be). Powered on and not even a chime. Went back for a second pass and ended up breaking a leg off UF8. The speaker chimes again but then blip-blips indefinitely, almost like it's stuck in a reboot loop but doesn't fully chime after the first one.
  11. Just as the topic asks, has anyone tried using a rounded scsi cable for their SCSI2SD or even just normal internal scsi hdd? I don't love the idea of twisting the flat cable to orientate it correctly in my SE/30. I remember in the past buying roudned IDE cables but I'm having trouble finding SCSI. Any thought or advice?
  12. Hello I am going to be reworking the logic board on an SE/30 and am looking for a list of capacitors for the board. The board I have has already gone through a repair by an unknown third party and I intend to remove all the caps he put in place. I would like to install the original electrolytic capacitors and other caps that the board hosted. I don't want to go with tantalum capacitors because of their very disruptive end of life characteristics, namely they can blow up. I would appreciate if someone in the know could provide me a list of caps and their respective locations. Kindest regards —Alex
  13. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I need a new PSU for my SE/30, and it would be best if I got a modern one that supplies more power than the stock PSU. Any idea what ARTMIX could be using? (I doubt they made a custom designed power supply just for the SE/30. It certainly must be an off-the-shelf model, I would think.) http://www.artmix.com/hps_2009_EVO.html There are two +12V outputs, one being for the SWEEP. I assume these are isolated? For why offer two +12V output's instead of one powerful +12V unless they are needed to be isolated (to avoid noise issues)? I might be able to afford one PSU from ARTMIX, but I'd really like more than one since I have more than one SE/30. But at $200 a pop, that's too expensive, which is why I am posting here to see if anyone might know of a PSU that would fit inside the stock metal case and offer the same 4 outputs as the stock, but with higher current ratings. It's amazing to me that despite all the hundreds if not thousands of us who own and love SE/30's, you don't find any "rebuilt" PSUs for the SE/30 for some reason (outside ARTMIX). That implies that nearly every SE/30 owner on this planet is either using a stock PSU, or possibly a recapped PSU (which would not put out more power than a new stock PSU, which isn't designed for that many add-ons). The reason I seek a modern PSU inside the stock metal PSU enclosure is to cover any power requirement, regardless of the add-ons I add inside (HDD, PDS cards, etc.) I therefore look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.
  14. Hi folks, this is my first post here and I’m looking for some help diagnosing yet another video issue with a Mac SE/30 - hoping that someone could point me in the right direction. Usual story, dug the Mac out of storage to find it didn’t boot, display full of stripes and noise. Removed the caps, cleaned out the electrolyte, dirt and oxide, replaced caps. The board looks great, no visible broken traces and squeaky clean. Connected to power, the Mac chimes, POSTs and boots all the way to the Finder normally, the mouse and floppy work. The issue is only the left quarter of the screen is being drawn, as if divided into four columns, leaving horizontal strips across the rest. In the Finder I can make out the trash and menubar but being continually overwritten in the same quarter screen. It’s as if only 25% the VRAM is being written, but the whole memory is being read back out to the video circuit. With the RAM and ROM SIMMs out the Mac shows a stable full screen stripe pattern. Swapping out both RAM/ROM with a known good set yields the same results. I’d appreciate it if anyone could offer any advice on what could be happening. Before I buzz out the entire board or start replacing chips I’d like an idea of what’s going on.
  15. Hi everyone. I'm not English speaker so maybe I can't tell about some problems nicely. sorry about it. Few days ago I bought Macintosh SE/30 with no HDD. it looked some leaking capacitors on the motherboard, so I remove capacitors and then clean the motherboard with dishwasher and dry it out and then recapped. Then boot up SE/30, it looked boot up nicely. She can boot up from internal FDD and external FDD(Floppy Emu). When turn on the power, internal HDD looks spin up and can see blinking access LED. But can't boot up from HDD and can't see from Finder. I try format HDD on some third party formatter software but they can't format. They looks recognize the HDD but can't do any functions. When try check SCSI devices on Lido 7, it says "OSErr= 5 bad scsi command: phase error." on SCSI ID 0. and Pmount shows 0MB Drive on SCSI ID 0. This also happens another 3 HDDs I have. What I can do for fix this problem? Thanks IMG_0614.HEIC
  16. Hello, My Macintosh SE/30 motherboard has been having issues since I received the computer in mid July. First of all, it used to turn on and do the simasimac, and death chimes but then I sent it out to MacCaps, and he tried to repair to no avail. It did the same thing when I got it back, so I tried washing the board in 5% White vinegar, but that didn't do anything. Any suggestions? Thanks! -Ryan
  17. tommijazz91

    Mac SE/30 network problems

    Hello everyone! I recently acquired a CNET technology cn470e PDS card, which I installed some days ago. I wrote another post about it, but unfortunately no-one replied (https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/57586-se30-cnet-network-card/). Probably the post is too dense and full of useless things... . I am trying to surf the internet with the SE/30, but I am completely stuck. I installed OT 1.3 and AppleShare 3.7.4, Netscape 2.02 and iCab 2.99 (freezes at startup). The red LED is on (connection is good) but the greed LED is off (data being transmitted). What do I do from here? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot.
  18. tommijazz91

    SE/30 startup problems

    Hello everyone! My SE/30 has always had a weird problem: if I boot from the internal hard disk, most of the time the system software doesn't load, and the floppy icon appears (as if the HDD took to long to spin). This happens almost every time, maybe it will boot once every 20 times or more, and mostly at cold boot. But if I connect a SCSI Zip drive (even without a cartridge), the Mac boots just fine to System 7.5.5. I have a 8gb hard drive with five partitions, the system folder is in partition 1. Otherwise it's a stock SE/30 that needs recapping (no sound). RAM is 8mb. Anyone knows why this happens? Thanks a lot!
  19. tommijazz91

    SE/30 CNET network card

    Hello everyone! I hope this is the right place to post this, if not so then I'll remove the post. Some weeks ago I acquired on eBay a PDS network card for my SE/30: it's a CNET Technology CN470E card. Just today I found some time to install it, and TattleTech indeed confirmed some stats about this card: Now, as I have never used network cards before, I would like to know if some you could help me in configuring it and try surfing the web/share files/email, etc. There is an older topic on the forum about this card (https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/55066-anyone-able-to-identify-this-se30-network-card/&tab=comments#comment-584140), but it wasn't completely solved and I hope the drivers included with system 7 are good enough. I have also read the pinned guide to connect the SE/30 to the web, but it confused me quite a bit. I also have lots of (probably) unnecessary things in my system folder. Maybe some of you could tell me if I can delete some control panels/extensions and replace them with more efficient ones. I know it's a real mess, but somehow I feel most of those things are not needed for what I intend to do. I don't have many ways to transfer files to the SE/30: I only have a SCSI Zip drive and a USB Zip drive for my modern PC and Mac. Also: do I need a particular router? A particular Ethernet cable? I'm totally new about this. Thanks a lot! P.S. what does the little lever (on the right side of the card) do?
  20. Earlier today I won an auction for a Daystar Turbo 601 66mhz and I unfortunately don't have a IIci or supported model or the needed IIsi adapter to run it in my IIsi. Bolle mentioned in the Trading Post forum: I would definitely be interested in one of these if a batch were to be made. That drives a question...if one had the Turbo 601 and the needed IIsi adapter, could that not be run in a SE/30? I found several posts on the topic of getting the 601 running in SE/30 but it seems that this has not been achieved....
  21. Crutch

    Micron Xceed Color 30 fail

    My recently acquired Xceed Color 30 worked a few times ... then started failing intermittently (popping noise from the analog board, and bright scan lines on the screen with no video) before failing completely (same symptoms, 100% of the time). I noticed the IC at U1 gets extremely hot (painful to touch) quickly when powered up. I'm hoping that replacing it will solve my problem... two questions for people here smarter than me: 1. That IC is labeled "TIT131FS F74". I'm hoping it's one of these three flip flops. Is there a way to tell which one? Does it matter? TI SN74F74D = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=AMJt07B76usCaqNdeb4hlg%3d%3d TI SN74F74DR = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=sbcp%2f4gpy0%2bgzMKzFBFFrA%3d%3d TI SN74F74DRG4 = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=mE33ZKBHyE7Fs3ZxegDeVA%3d%3d 2. Any thoughts on something else I might be missing? Is replacing this IC actually likely to help? Thanks for any help or ideas!
  22. I have a fully recapped SE/30 with 128MB RAM, ROMinator II Mega (with stock software still on it), and I'm booting from a FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Even though FloppyEMU is basically a floppy emulator that connects to Macs via the floppy port, "HD20 mode" allows me to create a disk image (in my case, just over 200MB) on the SD card of the FloppyEMU and boot from it, just as an Apple HD20 hard disk would boot (via the floppy port). Normally the SE/30 cannot boot from an HD20, but the ROMinator II fixes that problem and allows booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode and even from a real HD20. Currently, I am using System 6.0.8 on my FloppyEMU. Everything works fine and as expected EXCEPT for MultiFinder. For some reason I don't understand, MultiFinder won't load when I boot System 6 from my FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. (You always know when MultiFinder loads because you can see a little icon in the upper right of the menubar. When MultiFinder doesn't load, as in my case, that icon is missing.) No matter what I do, I can't get MultiFinder to load when booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Yet if I boot from a spinning platter HDD (external SCSI drive) into System 6.0.8, MultiFinder loads just fine. I've tried copying MultiFinder from my HDD to my FloppyEMU without success, and I've tried a fresh copy of MultiFinder from System 6.0.8 install disks too, which doesn't work either. (I am booting in 24-bit addressing mode.) Those of you who have both a ROMinator II and FloppyEMU in HD20 mode booting System 6, have you experienced this problem with MultiFinder?
  23. I've had several PhoneNet adapters in my collection for many years but never used them since my SE/30 has an Ethernet card. But today I was thinking about multiplayer games like MazeWars which might be fun for myself and my two kids. I have a Mac 512k (64k ROMs) and a PhoneNet adapter for it (including terminating resistor), and I also have two Farallon PhoneNet adapters with round connectors for use with more modern Compact Macs like the SE/30 shown here: I am running System 6.0.8 and System 7.1 and 7.5.5 on my two SE/30's, and I have pre-System6 operating systems on floppies for my Mac512 (again, which has the original 64k ROMs, not the newer 128k ROMs of the Mac 512kE or Plus). Since I've never used PhoneNet before, I have the following questions: 1. Can one even play games like MazeWars across different Macs and operating systems? (A Mac 512k is quite different from an SE/30 in terms of floppy disk drive capacity, ROM, RAM and OS compatibility.) 2. What specific software must I have installed on System 6.0.8, System 7.1 and pre-System6 Macs? And, is there a minimum System version for this to work? (Is use of a 400k boot floppy out of the question?) 3. Can I use regular telephone wire? (The kind of wire you'd use to connect a wired phone to a wall socket?) 4. Say I have my Mac512 and both SE/30's all connected via the PhoneNet adapters, and say I have all the required software installed. Now let's say I sit down at the Mac512. I assume I will see both SE/30's in the Chooser? And do I select both SE/30's in the Chooser to start networking with them? 5. Will this LocalTalk setup work with pretty much any multi-player networked Mac game? Thanks. P.S. Yes, I am aware of the Definitive Guide to Networking, but it doesn't answer my questions specifically. Indeed, answers to my questions above may become the new definitive guide since they don't seem to be answered briefly and specifically elsewhere.
  24. fimbulvetr

    Daystar SE/30 Powercache help

    I have been playing around with my new SE/30 with a Daystar SE/30 Powercache for the socketed motherboard, and I have a few questions about what is needed to run it. I have OS 7.5.5 on my computer, and I installed the Daystar Power Central v1.3 control panel, which is the only one I could find. I should be using v2.2 with OS 7.7 according to this: http://lowendmac.com/daystar/pages/dsd_products/support/upgrades/faq_03040.html Does it matter that I am using v1.3 and not v2.2? I am considering installing OS 7.1 instead, as I prefer it. Plus I managed to snag a IIsi rom on ebay for $12 and I am a bit intimidated by the number of steps in getting it to work properly under OS 7.5. On the other hand, this computer also has an Asante ethernet card, and from what I gather there is a bit of futzing to get that fully functional under OS 7.1.
  25. MacinPosh

    SE/30 burnt ROM socket

    I was in the process of cleaning and recapping an SE/30 logic board which had been subjected to a battery leakage. I've checked and rerouted all the rotted traces (totalling about 15) between the RAM, ROM, VROM and GLU but when I was satisfied enough to attempt a boot, pin 63 on the ROM burnt out (causing pin 64 to fall off, but pin 63 was definitely the offender) leaving me with a dead SE/30. Any ideas what might have caused the sudden burning on the ROM? I've checked it in another machine and now it only boots a grey screen with death chimes. Maybe there is a short I haven't noticed, or there are broken internal traces too? Any suggestions are much appreciated, but I fear this machine is un-repairable.
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