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moothefish

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  1. moothefish

    PB 150 hinge repair alternatives

    I have heard of the baking soda and glue method. Not sure how I'd go about that now that the inside of the screen housing is full of epoxy though, but I'll certainly look further into it. Of course I'd rather leave it original, but I feel like some dark coloured screws wouldn't look too awful (assuming I could do it reasonably neatly, which is a big assumption), and I would like it to be reliable long term. Did you just put some nuts on the inside of the display housing when you put screws through your 180?
  2. moothefish

    PB 150 hinge repair alternatives

    So i've recently acquired a PowerBook 150 in good shape with the traditional broken right hand side hinge mounts. Following advice from this forum and other sources I attempted to epoxy the screw inserts back into the position they should be in and got everything lined up fairly well and let it cure for about 48 hours. Started the reassembly process and as soon as i closed and opened the display once, the inserts tore straight out of the blob of epoxy, and i'm now back where I started. While the machine in general is in good shape the top lid has some texta marks that I can't entirely remove, and I would like to be able to take this machine around places and show people what their macbook pro used to look like. So I'm wondering what the best option would be in terms of putting some screws through the casing to hold it together more securely and reliably. Controversial, yes. But I would like to actually be able to use the machine and I can't see any easy way of removing the epoxy I've put in and replacing it with a different kind. I'm also a little concerned that putting some kind of fastener through the back casing will just cause the case to eventually crack even more around where the fastening goes through. Has anyone done something like this on a 1xx series machine with any long term success?
  3. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Cheers, didn't managed to find that thread in my searches. Will take a look when I get some more time to work on it /find diodes etc
  4. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Hmm well that one is at least correct, I'll have to go through all the caps and double check the values. I'll see if I can find some diodes to try in the meantime.
  5. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Well, I've acquired a second analogue board for next to nothing, swapped caps over and have a similar result..(though the flyback isn't making unhappy noises anymore so yay?) I'm thinking I've been rather stupid and one of my caps is the wrong value. Can anyone confirm the rating of cp11 ? It was missing entirely from the new board. I'm gonna kick myself so hard if that's what is causing this.. Also what value are those diodes? I don't have any to swap them out for
  6. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    I have reflowed the deflection coil connector solder joints and also checked the rest of the board over for solder joints, can't see any more at this point. I'll try and grab a video of it tomorrow
  7. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Thanks for the advice, I ended up adjusting the pot to see if that would help and the machine now seems to be booting consistently. Buuut the display is still very very unstable and the buzzing noise is still there. I have another analog board on the way, so I think at this point I might pull the new caps off this board, put them on the replacement one and see if that one is a runner when it arrives.
  8. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Ok so I've had some more time to work on the classic. I have checked the voltages at the hard drive molex connector and everything seems stable there, 11.7 on the 12v rail and 4.7 on the 5v rail. Would these be low enough to cause issues? The voltages don't fluctuate at all when the machine resets itself. Anywhere else I should check voltages?
  9. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    I replaced one of them because while the diode tested ok, it seemed like cap goo had gotten into it and had eaten away at the outside of it, and had left a sticky black residue all over it. Rather than try and clean it I just replaced it with another one I had to hand.
  10. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Haven't checked voltages just yet, however at this point I suspect the issue may lie in the flyback or the circuitry that drives it. While the screen is shaking, the flyback buzzes a little and whenever it resets the flyback clicks and cuts out just before the reset. I've changed all the caps and one of the large black diodes in the power section so far.
  11. moothefish

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    No, it did some time back but eventually stopped powering on. Recapped the logic board and that made no difference, recapped the PSU and now have these symptoms UPDATE: so I just tried powering it on again and now the machine boots as it should, single chime, I get display with a cursor and the insert disk icon (don't have a hard disk in it at the moment). However the display is veeery wobbly and shakes up and down, which isn't something it did before it stopped powering up.
  12. Hi, long time lurker here. I recently recapped my classic ii motherboard and analogue board as it stopped turning on entirely. Now I can get it to power on, but it behaves very strangely. The machine will power up, give a boot chime, then there will be a "tick" sound from the analogue board and the machine will reset, chime again, sometimes only half a chime, before resetting again. Sometimes it will chime, then immediately give the chimes of death, then reset again. And sometimes it won't even give a chime or will just go straight to the death chimes. I'm really not sure where to start with this one. Given the tick sound, could this be a sign of a dead flyback maybe? I will admit I did the logic board recap a while ago and it was the first time ever doing smd cap replacement, and I did have to run wires in place of two pads (rest assured my skills have improved a great deal since then). So it could well be something I've done wrong. Any help is appreciated.
  13. Hi all, I've spent many many years now looking for an LC575 and a few weeks back I finally found one locally for the price of nothing! Non working but "how bad could it be" I thought. Well.. The battery had started to leak and corrode, as well as the typical 90s and leaky caps. So I cleaned the board as best I could, checked any traces that looked particularly bad, etc. As far as I can tell, there's only two broken ones that go the expansion port, so they shouldn't stop the system from booting. However I haven't had any luck. I can hear the crt degaussing, hard drive spins up, cd drive works etc. But no boot chime, black screen and no hard drive activity. The CPU does get warm after a few minutes, so I assume it's at least doing something. Any traces in particular I should look at more closely? I've replaced half of the caps on the board (I only had a few leftovers from my se/30 recap) but that has changed nothing. The white residue is left over from the isopropyl, I've given it many coats as well as even washing it with water but I can't seem to get it any cleaner than this. So yeah, is this board fixable or am I going to have to continue my long standing quest for a 575? https://m.imgur.com/a/AmdzkDo (Photos won't upload here for reasons unknown) Also anyone know anything about this video card it came with? Can't find anything about it online.
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