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Posts posted by CVKealey

  1. 1 hour ago, Crutch said:

    Another option is to get a SCSI-to-Ethernet adapter like the Asante EN/SC.  Then literally all the Macs you listed could connect to Ethernet/WiFI and FTP into whatever modern machine you want.  They show up on eBay from time to time.  Cheaper than getting an extra transitional machine.e

    Just to clarify, I'm not talking about getting another machine, just deciding which of my current machines would be best to keep and which I can let go. Not that any of the ones I'm considering selling off have much in terms of value. And somewhere, I think I still have an Asante LocalTalk-to-ethernet adapter, which is probably just as good an option for connecting any of the compacts.

  2. 48 minutes ago, LaPorta said:

    I use my PT Pro since it has floppy, CD, ZIP, Jaz, SCSI, FireWire, Ethernet, serial, etc so it can connect to almost anything.

    I guess this is kind of what I was getting at. I'm looking at the situation like a prepper...I want something that will allow me to retrieve stuff from or write things to old (400k) disks or SCSI drives, or just about anything else. It's probably not going to be just one machine, so I need to justify (to others in the house who shall not be named) why I need to keep "all those old computers" around. :-/

  3. So, I used to collect all manner of old computers, mostly Macs but some others as well. Given the need to minimize storage space and maximize nostalgia, I've decided to pare my collection down to compact Macs only. The shelving in my storage area allows 6 per shelf with space for keyboards, mice, etc., so if I aim for one good example of each model of compact, I shouldn't need more than a couple shelves. So far, I have:

    • an original Mac (512k, I think) that was upgraded to a Plus
    • SE FD/HD
    • SE/30
    • Macintosh Classic
    • Macintosh Classic II
    • Color Classic (upgraded to a Mystic)


    Pretty much all of them need to be recapped, which I hope to work on as an exercise to teach my son how to solder. The question I've come to, though, is that few of these have any kind of network connectivity (the SE/30 and CC have ethernet, but no others), so I'll need to keep around some other machine for the purpose of downloading software, creating floppy disks, etc. To fill that need, I currently have an LCIII, a Powerbook G3 Lombard and a couple G3 iMacs (ingido, 2001). 


    Obviously, the PBG3 or iMacs better go along with the "compactness" of the collection, but I feel like I'd run into some situation where they wouldn't work. For example, testing some 68k-based applications may not work, or I may not be able to format some disks. 


    The LCIII would take up a bit more space than the PBG3 (probably about the same space as the iMacs, factoring in the monitor), but being a 68k processor, I feel like there's less chance of compatibility issues. And, the other consequence is that this, too will need to be recapped (I redid the power supply a few years back, but haven't touched the logic board).


    So, for those of you that curate compact collections, how important is it to keep a "transitional" or "translational" machine around, and would something with a 68k CPU be a better choice than the others for any particular reason?

  4. I've got a Color Classic that I "Mystic"-ized a long time ago. At the time (~2010, I think?) the current wisdom on handling the rear I/O panel was to get an LC575 panel and basically merge it with the original CC panel. I have both. The problem was that life got in the way and I never finished that. Now, I still have the parts, but not the time and not the patience or skill to make it look good. 


    So, is there anyone out there that has successfully done this (combined the two I/O panels into one that fits as the original does)? If so, would you be willing to do it again, and if so, what would this cost?


    Alternately, I saw something pop up about someone 3D printing Mystic I/O panels, but now I can't seem to find it. While I'd prefer it look as original as possible, the convenience of just popping on a piece that's specifically designed to do the job has its appeal.

  5. It's been a LOOOOONG time since I messed with CRTs or tube TVs, but the noise you're referring to sounds like the flyback transformer. Usually the noise is accompanied by a flicker or other visible distortion, but not always. Way back in the day, I had a client with a brand new (at the time) bondi iMac where they complained of this type of noise. In that case, there weren't any visible cues, and I couldn't hear anything peculiar, although the client could (she was an elderly librarian, so probably much more attuned to hearing noise than I was). In any event, Apple sent a replacement and had us ship back the "bad" one. In their investigation (back when they actually did that) they found that it was a defective transformer. 

  6. Going through a couple boxes of old hard drives, I found two Quantum Viking drives, model # VK42S493. Specs I found online indicate these are 4.2 GB and appear to have been originally sold by/packaged in Compaq PCs. I'm fairly certain at least one of them came out of a PowerMac (7200 or 7300, I think). I plugged them into an external SCSI enclosure connected to my beige G3 DT (running 9.2.1) and Drive Setup sees them, but lists them as "unsupported". I can't initialize them, mount them, or anything else. Any ideas on whether these are compatible/can be used in SCSI-based Macs? 


  7. On 8/26/2019 at 11:17 AM, Kai Robinson said:

    3A PSU was all that was needed! The hard disk in the Japanese model is hosed...clicks, whirrs but is pretty dead otherwise. The dead machine i think i have almost everything i need to resurrect it, barring a new screen, so we'll see what i can find, but i may end up using it as a parts machine, sadly :(



    If you're the "third time's a charm" type, I have a 180C that's in parts. The screen is in good physical condition, but the plastics are shot (all the brass standoffs for the screws holding it together are separated from the panels). I do have the proper AC adapter (US version, if that matters). I don't think it's got a HDD in it currently. If you're willing to cover the shipping to wherever you are, it's yours. PM me if interested.



  8. 51 minutes ago, TechEdison said:

    Yea the issue I have is that I don't have a yoyo adapter. I'll probably pick one up on ebay at some point.

    What's the model/part # of the adapter you want/need? I have one that (I think) came with a Bronze G3 PowerBook that had a drinking problem (in that its owner thought they should make it drink a latte). As far as I know, it (the adapter, not the G3) works, but I'm not sure it's the same specs as the iBook's AC adapter. I'll check the PN tonight.

  9. On 1/27/2018 at 2:30 PM, BadGoldEagle said:

    You need to relube the stepper motor mechanism on the actual hard drive. Take the HD20 apart, remove the drive. On the underside you should be able to see a big square block with a shaft in the middle. That's the stepper motor. I bought some Hetman Nr 11 Rotor oil, but any kind of rotor oil should do fine... Squirt a couple of drops on the shaft. Reconnect everything (but don't secure the HD back in place just yet, you'll need to add more lube later). Power the drive up. Wait a minute or so until the driver finishes seeking and power it down. Rinse and repeat. (do not actually rinse the thing, but I think you see what I mean...). It probably won't work straight away, so be prepared to squirt some more oil onto that shaft. When it finally mounts on the desktop, secure everything down and you should be good to go.


    Of course there is still a chance that even after all of this, it still doesn't wanna work... But I revived mine a couple of months ago and it worked well for a while. Now it doesn't though but I guess a couple more drops of oils should bring it back to life.


    Oh and the Classic II is 100% compatible with the HD20. So it should work.

    Thanks for the walk through. I cleaned this out, lubed the motor, and this spun up and worked like new!

  10. Ok, I started pulling this apart to troubleshoot it. With the whole top section (keyboard, screen, etc) disconnected, it appears to power on just fine. The drive spins up, sounds like it's booting normally, but with no video, I can't tell for sure. I suspect the the problem is the backlight driver board (I don't think that's the actual name, but there's a pic below) or the backlight itself. The clicking seems to come after the backlight is on for more than about a second. Of course, in the process of disassembling it, the screw mounts for the hinges ripped out of the lid panel, so I'm thinking it may be a better use of time to just part this thing out. There's a 200 MB HDD, 4 MB RAM board, basically the whole bottom half (including a modem) that appears to work just fine. The other option is to seek out a video adapter and hook it up that way. 


    Picture of problem board: https://www.flickr.com/gp/46004541@N02/538811

  11. On 1/27/2018 at 7:56 PM, IlikeTech said:

    Before you go attaching the switch, try using a jumper to change the drive ID and see if it works.

    Actually, I found the original drives that came out of the enclosures which have the appropriate header for the ID selector switch. What I was hoping to use the enclosure for is testing some 2.5" SCSI drives. I have the correct 50-pin-to-34-pin adapter board, and I believe have the ID jumpers set correctly to make the drive show up as ID 2, but they weren't showing up at all. I'm not sure if the controller in the M2115 is toast, but now that I've found the right drive, I can verify if that's the case or not.

  12. I have some lightweight synthetic air-tool oil that should probably work. I'll have to crack it open, clean out the 33 years of accumulated dust and see if I can bring it back to life.


    I also discovered in another box what appears to be the Rodime drive from another HD20. Well, I guess it may not be from an HD20 as I'm sure that drive was used elsewhere.

  13. Anyone happen to have a service manual for the M2115 external SCSI HDD? I have two of them I've reassembled from pieces and can't seem to get them to work. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out where the scsi ID switch connects. I think it should connect to the drive itself, but can't see where. Any help would be appreciated.

  14. 1 hour ago, AlpineRaven said:

    Dont chuck out the CC!!!! (which people would! As I am looking for rear piece of CC too) - sad sight of the board I agree and looks like its beyond repair too. What I'd do either; find another CC board, or get LC550 or LC575 - if you're able to get 3/4 board - some other Macs such as LC630 have full size board, so 3/4 boards will fit but full size wont.



    Not to hijack the thread, but what "rear piece" are you looking for? Something external (the I/O panel) or something internal?

  15. Trying to test my CC's original board, I popped some RAM and VRAM into it and slid it into the chassis. Flipped the power switch, then hit the power button on the keyboard and... nothing. Crickets. Waited a few more minutes and tried the power button again, still nothing. Thing is, I don't have a proper PRAM battery for it, so I'm thinking that may be the issue. Although I know newer Mac's (PowerMacs, anyway) will power on without that battery.

  16. IMG_20180127_100924266.thumb.jpg.1b7883d4e542c4af782c142a6e6c3144.jpgMore of a discovery than a conquest, but apparently at some point I acquired an HD20. Just found it in a box this morning. Seems to spin up (sounds like the drive spinning), but is not recognized by my Classic II. I think this might be the one my dad bought shortly after he got the 512k in 1984 and before he had it upgraded to a Plus. 

  17. I'm hatching a plan to keep 'em both, but it looks like the SE/30 definitely has some capacitor issues (see below). My solder-fu is a bit rusty, so I'm not sure I want to do it myself or farm it out. Anyone know what the going rate is for an SE/30 board? And can I assume the caps on the analog/display control board susceptible to the same issue?



    The Mystic CC starts up fine (well, it took two power cycles for the drive to spin up), but the display seems to be a little off. Almost like the contrast or brightness is shifting on its own. I don't remember that from before, but I probably didn't do such a clean job on the VGA conversion. There don't seem to be any leaking caps on the logic board, but there may be elsewhere. Also, the cage for the CPU cooler broke into 3 pieces, so if I want to use that (I don't know if it's standard on the 575 board or an aftermarket), I'll have to fabricate a new one.