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The stupidest thing I've ever started (Mac Plus build)

sigtau

6502
So a while ago, I procured a Macintosh Plus case.  It has all of the mounting brackets, metal internals, etc. and all it's really missing is the Torx bits for the outer case (easily procured) and a cover for the battery.  $10, local pickup.  Easy peasy, will probably retrobrite it to give it a nice white glimmer again.

I got to thinking of what I could do with such a case.  I considered building a Hackintosh into it to run modern macOS on it, but that proved to be quite a pricey endeavor for a side project (over $500).  So instead, I trawled eBay and the like and found a working original CRT tube with yoke and flyback and all cables needed, as well as a working analog board with no corrosion damage and a logic board (sans RAM because I have a ton of it laying around), and I'm going to build a Plus into a Plus case, as God intended.

I'm still missing a floppy drive for it but I figure since it's an old-world ROM that supports 800K sony drives, I can just cannibalize one from my broken LC 475 and it'll see it as 800K.  Good enough.  I really hate floppies, so I will probably get a SCSI hard drive to mount externally.  I am also considering mounting a silent 12V PC fan inside the case (harmlessly, with 3D printed mounting brackets or something) to extend the longevity and mitigate finding one of those obnoxious handle-mounted external fans.

The parts arrive in 3 days and I'm going to give the play-by-play here because this is either going to go really well, or really terribly, and I am excited so I didn't know who else to tell.

I'm also looking for feedback and advice from anyone who has taken on this kind of project before, such as what I can expect, what I should avoid, and how to not get slammed with mains/flyback voltage while working on the analog board (already happened with another Mac of mine, which hurt like hell and destroyed the PSU in question).

 
You can't an use a 475 floppy for a plus, the 475 is a manual insert and the plus is an auto insert meaning that the floppy drive sucks the floppy.

 
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You can't an use a 475 floppy for a plus, the 475 is a manual insert and the plus is an auto insert meaning that the floppy drive sucks the floppy.
Good to know.  I have a dual floppy SE laying around but both of those drives are in service, so I suppose I could cannibalize it for testing but not much else.

I sold most of my parts but I have some spare 800k FDDs I need to get around to testing.
Let me know if you do, seems like everyone here gives fair prices. ;D

 
The Plus logic board came in today.  S/N L60101017.  It appears to be a Revision A board, as the silkscreen says MAC PLUS 820-0174-A, and image searching reveals -B and -C variants of the board.  The ROM is Revision B.  Earlier this week I retrobrited the mouse a bit.  It became overcast midway through the day so it'll require a second treatment or a higher concentration with heat treatment, but it turned out well for the amount of exposure it got at this latitude (about 44 degrees N).

I dishwashed the board to remove the thick layer of dust that had accumulated on it over time and cleaned the ROM contacts with some alcohol while the board washed.  I also scrubbed the hell out of the mouse as it was covered in black marks at the time I got it, which came right off with a coarse wire brush and fine nylon brush.

Here's the board: http://i.imgur.com/sUNxULe.jpg

Here's the mouse: https://i.imgur.com/GmIljSr.jpg

 
Glad to hear of someone doing the reverse of what I habitually do to a Plus that falls into my grubby little paws [;)] ]'>

The Drexel 128/Plus/MicroMac030/16 remains prictine, theo one stock Plus remains so (AFAIK at this point) and one's been hacked to hell and gone. But it was a beat up unit I picked up sans MoBo. I snagged that one for shiggles, gits and Ryoba feedinjg time. So I've not really been all that hard on them. ::)  

 
The tube arrived today.  It might be salvageable, but the business end of it is... not great.  Waiting on the analog board to get here to see if this is worth salvaging.

https://i.imgur.com/lFpjQzO.jpg

EDIT: The vacuum released.  It's useless.

 
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The analog board arrived, and it's a beauty. S/N 8610112431.  It looks like the computer it came from was kept in a very dust-free environment and none of the capacitors are bulging whatsoever--although I ordered replacement caps anyway, to make sure it can be renewed for the next couple of decades.

Even the battery contacts are perfect, it's like it never got used.  October 1986 manufacture date, so it's likely the newest component in the machine.

http://i.imgur.com/YVTsDEQ.jpg

Not good! There's another here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/112600579043
I did successfully get refunded from that last one, so I'll pick that up if there aren't any bare monochrome tubes at recycling today when I go drop off some scrap.  Thanks!

 
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Ended up purchasing that tube, we shall see how it goes.

In the meantime, does anyone have some compact era Torx screws on hand that they don't need?  I'm not sure what threading/gauge to order and specifically searching for Macintosh screws gets some rather pricey results for a set of screws on eBay.

 
Apologies for the triple-post as I can't seem to find the edit button (it's usually over by the Quote/Multiquote buttons, maybe I'm just blind)?

EDIT: Found it.  Seems that you can't edit posts beyond a certain amount of time from the original post date.  I wonder why?

Anyways, I don't have the cable needed to connect the analog board to the logic board.  Can anyone spare a cable like that, and if not, what connectors/AWG wire are needed to build one?

 
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I ended up buying some 8-32 type machine screws with a philips head to secure the parts on the inside so that I could save the remaining Torx driver screws for exterior casing and key parts like the CRT.  They grip fairly well, and it's no issue--89 cents for a box at Menard's.

In the meantime, I've retrobrited a bunch of stuff.  I am also having to repaint the Apple logo because it's just faded so terribly, it looks like a 30 year old VHS tape but in real life.

Enamel paint spreads very, very, very well, so I have to mask each of the Apple stripes off individually.  I can't use normal masking tape as it's too porous.  Vinyl tape worked best.

Sour apple: https://i.imgur.com/2G45mWt.jpg

Retrobrited bezel, mid cleaning: https://i.imgur.com/mPtpJjX.jpg

In the meantime, I received the RF shielding and all I'm waiting on now is the power header that connects the logic board to the analog board to have a bootable machine.

In summary:

Case: Free.

Logic Board: 35

Analog Board: 25

CRT: 30 (got a full refund on the one that shattered, awaiting the new one)

RF shield: 20 (expensive, I know, but the alternative was to make one and I don't have the mechanical skill to do so)

Power connector: 12

Keyboard/Mouse: 50

Total spend for a working Plus that I got to build myself: $172.  Considering the price of a working system unit comes to about $100 incl. shipping on eBay, and that's not including the mouse/keyboard (which would add another $50 at least!), I don't feel particularly bad about that.  For the experience, this has been stupidly fun to see come together, and it wasn't like I dropped $172 all at once--this was over the course of 3-4 weeks.

I'm still missing that damn floppy drive, though.  No one has responded in the Trading Post thread yet.  [ :( ]

Other than that, I need a battery cover?  That's not particularly showstopping but for the 'complete' effect it would be nice to have.

Outside of the core project, I am procuring the capacitors I need from DigiKey to recap the analog board so it lasts longer, and I obtained a SCSI external hard drive, 8GB, for $5.  I'm not so sure System 6 could access that, but I guess with the 4MB I installed in it it could theoretically run 7.

 
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Now I do know I have a spare battery cover for you, and I have to let you know I will sell it to you before you spend $20 on one ;)

 
It works!

It chimed this afternoon with all the parts inserted.  However, there's no picture, despite adjusting the screen control pots.  The CRT is definitely receiving some amount of energy as I discharged the anode cap without issue.  The cap had a hook broken off inside but a solder bodge later and that was fixed.

I think I may try reflowing the analog board as a first shot to debug this thing.  I also have the parts needed now to recap it.  If not that, then just procuring a new analog board shouldn't be too bad.

 
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