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SE 30 KEY BOARD PROBLEM HELP

Help,

I tried to book up my SE 30 the other day. When the Key board and mouse are connected, the SE will get to the welcome mac screen and will not complete the boot up process. If I unplug the keyboard it will continue to boot. I can plug the mouse in with out the key board and it works fine. I tested the same kB and mouse on my classic II and it is fine.

anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

NOOB ADAM

 
Have you tried a different keyboard?

Have you tried plugging the mouse and keyboard into separate ADB ports, instead of plugging the mouse into the keyboard?

Have you tried alternating which ADB port the keyboard is plugged into?

 
It could be a bad ADB connector. I had these on both sides of the IIgs keyboard I used with my SE/30. I resoldered the pads but still had problems. I then replaced the cable but the problems remained. It didn't happen all the time, so I tried to live with it for about a year. But after a while it got to me so I opened the keyboard up and examined the keyboard PCB. Sure enough two of the capacitors on the board were leaking. I replaced them with tantalum versions (which will never leak) and all my keyboard problems are now a thing of the past.

Some people will lead you to believe that only the main logic board (or in some cases, the PSU as well) need new capacitors, but that is not the whole story. If you have electrolytic caps inside your keyboard, you need to swap those out too.

 
Okay... I will try another Keyboard and see if that works.

I tried both ports and that didn't cure the problem.

thanks for the input.

Adam

 
It could be a bad ADB connector. I had these on both sides of the IIgs keyboard I used with my SE/30. I resoldered the pads but still had problems. I then replaced the cable but the problems remained. It didn't happen all the time, so I tried to live with it for about a year. But after a while it got to me so I opened the keyboard up and examined the keyboard PCB. Sure enough two of the capacitors on the board were leaking. I replaced them with tantalum versions (which will never leak) and all my keyboard problems are now a thing of the past.
Some people will lead you to believe that only the main logic board (or in some cases, the PSU as well) need new capacitors, but that is not the whole story. If you have electrolytic caps inside your keyboard, you need to swap those out too.
Anyone know if mice from this era have capacitors?

 
Mice have caps in them too, but I've yet to have a mouse go bad on me, so I've never taken the time to swap out the caps. And that holds true for mice manufactured in 1984 and earlier.

Here's a Mac 128k mouse PCB photo that reveals two electrolytic caps inside. Technically speaking, it would be good to replace these with tantalum caps in order to restore the mouse to the same electrical functionality it had shortly after manufacture.

 
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