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Wow what a cool project. I'd love to give my turbo color slab some more pep... eagerly awaiting updates! -J

My image came from giles :) -J

Any tips for getting the keycaps off? I'd hate to just yank and snap the stabilizes. -J

The small bulb is a 3w wedge bulb, used in some car instrument panels. The bulb for the blower motor control on a 99-03 VW Golf is the same. _J

Pin 1 of U5, U6, and U7 are tied to ground. The Via on the J jumper also goes to ground. (on my populated board anyway)

To boot from ROM? Or from the HDD? You have to patch the SYSTEM file if you're using a later Mac OS. -J

No, it was just something to try as a test.

Perhaps the upper head is dirty? It's also very possible the new disks have gone bad... Can you format them in a PC? -J

Right - I don't see a difference in Power Demo turning the cache on and off. I assume if things are working properly, a logic probe should show a change on the /CENABLE pin when toggling the cache on and off in the control panel? -J

Though, I don't see much of a difference turning the cache on / off. I wonder if the UI isn't able to detect the actual state of the cache?

I guess I got lucky :)

I've got high res scans of that card if you want them: http://compu85.homeip.net/stuff/Lisa/PCB%20Photos/MEM_F.pdf http://compu85.homeip.net/stuff/Lisa/PCB%20Photos/MEM_B.pdf If you wanted to go the DIP memory route, I was thinking more along the lines of the AST card. There are these plans...

One suggestion: When you make your respin of the ram card, make it so you can do 2mb. Despite what the documentation says, I've had no issues with Lisa OS, Xenix, or UniPlus+ with just a single 2mb AST card installed. -J

I dumped them as AM27C512's. -J

Initially the screen was getting black around the edges after 15 minutes. Now it takes about 30 minutes. The amount of "black ring" is also less, instead of completely covering the menu bar, and making the apple and file menus difficult to find, now the apple logo is just mostly obscured but the...

That looks normal. Sounds like the contacts in the Alps keyswitches have gone bad... they are a real bear to clean. You have to desolder the switches, and take them apart. The housings are made of super brittle plastic and very easy to damage.

On my PB180, I was able to reduce the bad tunnel vision some by just leaving the whole machine out in the sun for several hours. I plan to do a few more rounds of this when it's not quite so hot, and not so humid. -J

Does your machine have erasable ROMs now? (little window under the sticker). If so you can just erase them and program in the older code. Besides the extra fonts and bug fixes, are there any differences between the plus and original LW? -J

Ok. I have the P33 cache cards. I'm fine with adding a bodge wire... if it works. Thanks for the advice! I also only manage to see your board listings a month or two after they've all sold o_O -J

Hmm, I was just looking to buy one of these to use a DayStar PowerCache 50 mhz 030 accelerator. Are you saying this isn't a good plan? -J