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I read someone here used acetone to loosen up the top and then pried it off. Just don’t understand how the acetone wouldn’t melt the case also and not just the “glue”. I think the dremel will be my last resort. Hopefully someone who tried the acetone method will chime in here how that worked out.

Is there a way to open an original m5120 lead acid battery without mangling up the case? I have a working after market battery, but really want to get one working that looks more original. Thanks, Cheers, Corey

Well in case anyone needs the part numbers (the IR emitter was easy as someone has posted it here in the past and a quick google search found it, but the receiver wasn't so clear cut) so I figured I'd make this post. Remember to replace the receiver you will need to completely de-solder the...

I know this is a shameless plug, but there are a bunch of vintage Mac and Mac portable exhibits.  I also know the museum got a whole bunch of compact Macs running to sell at the consignment sale as part of a fund raising effort, so now is the time to prove compact Macs are like Tribbles and...

I do the same, I use low density foam from Home Depot which is sticky on one side and permanent double sided tape which does not require any peeling.  Then I punch out the sandwich.  The other key it so make sure the Mylar(space blanket) has the non conductive side outward since it’s not about...

I don’t think that would be an option for the FloppyEmu.   It only emulates an Hd20 because the HD20 was hacked by Apple into the floppy port for a Mac 512/512e.    The Lisa can’t even use two floppy drives at once.   The widget connects to a dedicated parallel interface which makes it a major...

I don’t think the floppyEmu can emulate a Lisa hard drive  (profile or widget). For that you need something like an XProfile.  When setting up my Lisa before I got my widget working, I used the floppyEmu to install BLU on my XProfile, made a floppy and then used BLU to test and fix my hard...

Exactly why I want it...!!!! Thanks...

I can't seem to find a good copy anywhere, just links to the documentation and pictures of the box.  I'm looking for the version that is native Lisa and not one for XENIX. Thanks in advance, Cheers, Corey

I found the best results actually were to complete remove all the plastic parts,and emblems.  Use liquid mask on any paper decals that I couldn’t remove with a hair dryer for reattachment later and simply take a giant plastic Rubbermaid tub (not see though) and fill it with a gallon of 40 liquid...

Thanks, solved it.  It seems that there was a cold solder joint on that front microswitch.   It wasn't glowing.  now it is... All seems good now...

I'm using a scratch disk that should prompt me to initialize, the system doesn't recognize anything is in the drive.   The pressure pad is present and it does go in all the way. Thanks, Cheers, Corey

OK, thanks.  Well I cleaned them with 99.9% ISP and still nothing.  When I insert a disk, the drive spins, but the computer doesn't see that a disk is inserted. Any ideas on what to check? Thanks, Corey

Ok.  My new to me external 400k drive doesn’t see when a disk is inserted.  I cleaned and lubed the ejection mechanism already.  The drive was pretty dirty, so I’m guessing the microswitche(s) are dirty.  Before I take the whole drive apart, are these optical because they look like a U shape...

Do you happen to have a caps list for the electrolytics on video board and psu? BTW, The Lisa hasn’t been powered on in years.   So I expect to treat it like it hasn’t been powered on since the 80’s.  Cheers, Corey

So I have a Lisa 2/10 that should arrive any day now.  Since it's a 2/10 I don't have to worry about the battery leaking, but what do I need to check/change before I attempt the 1st power on?   I know it's a good idea to replace the X2 safety caps in the power supply as I have heard they will...

Correction AppleTalk

I want to be able to send postscript from my Mac 128k to the serial port so it can be sent to an Postscript enabled HP Laser printer that doesn't have LocalTalk. Thanks, Corey

1000 grit wet sand paper is faster, then use the plastic polish for a final buff. Btw. On many heavily "used" keyboards the space bar naturally gets buffed in one spot, you can usually see it in bright lights like a museum uses to accent an artifact. Sometimes wet sanding is the only way to...

Doing a little history research, I'm going to need at least OS 2.1 or 3.x since my 1.1 disks predate the LaserWriter. I guess this will have to wait till I buy an SD card adapter so I can download newer software onto 3.5 floppies. Since I'm new to vintage Macs I only have a couple CFFA3000...