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I was looking to mostly scrutinize the clock, as you had pointed out I did replace just about everything in that area short of the clock chip. I’ll see about that software. How do you feel about Snooper’s clock testing? That did pass, and the computer is otherwise functioning completely normally.

I wasn’t able to locate an English copy of Mactest SE/30, so I got Mactest MP. That does run but it presumably isn’t designed with the SE/30 resolution in mind, I can only barely select the options for the display tests at the very bottom edge of the display. Whatever tests I can get it to run...

Hmmm, scratch that. There's different values for different board revisions. I can't seem to definitively find my board revision. I have two 4 digit codes on the board, which don't line up to the list on appleiioz.com. Even so, I did keep the original caps, and C4 and C5 I removed are 100uf...

So, caps are all the right way around. But, in checking, I managed to notice a mistake I made a while ago; Caps C4 and C5, for some silly reason I put in 100uf 250v. They need to be 150uf. Can't believe I missed something so basic! But at least there's something clear about a next step. Thank...

A good question, I’ve installed caps backwards before. The board is pretty well marked, but I’ll double check against a schematic available online tomorrow to be certain they are installed correctly. I’d generally expect a cap backwards to just pop, though, unless it’s a particularly large...

Yes, that’s the aim but I’m stuck with what next to check. I haven’t the experience to troubleshoot a PSU beyond the basics that I’ve covered here. Let’s hope someone can come to my rescue!

Ah, sorry. Should have started this by saying this is a known good IIgs. Working when I got it but recapped the PSU anyway, and then after bought the Vulcan. A friend also ran an additional cable on the board, apparently this board revision has a bit of an issue with a voltage trace being poorly...

I’ve been measuring off the molex drive power connector out the Vulcan PSU. I’ll next investigate voltages on the board itself, see if I get any dramatically different results. I don’t expect much of a discrepancy, or at least don’t feel too bad about measuring off the connector that I’m...

Fantastic. I’ll just go buy a set of replacements, and since I finally put my hot air station to work for the first time fixing a battery bombed SE/30 I have some additional confidence in my skills handling chips.

Ok, some progress. Removing almost all the cards (removing the Transwarp is a bit more involved than I’d like to be doing repeatedly) the system boots fine. 5v line is at about 4.5v. Moving the pot too high in one direction causes instability and I can hear some electric “sputtering” coming...

Reviving this thread as I have some upcoming time to put into shelved projects. In the event that I have some bad chips, I’d be looking to replace them. since I last worked on this, the proper TC518512FTL chips have become available on eBay, so I may just buy a full set of replacements and put...

For a load, I have the whole IIgs system with multiple cards installed. Tomorrow I’m going to give it a shot with the cards removed in case that produces a different result. And, the PSU did initially work multiple times without the drive in. I’ll test the drive power tomorrow on an external...

I posted some time ago about my Vulcan I’ve been fighting with. Posting again in hopes to find some more advice as I have made some progress. The problem before was a result of not paying attention to cap impedance values. I bought replacements that matched as closely as possible to the...

I am happy but I’ll admit, this was far from a complicated one. The bad trace was actually a bad solder pad so it was visually apparent it was bad. Confirmed of course beeping it out but not like I had to do the full legwork to beep everything out. Also this was not a severe battery bombed...

Well! I’m a bit of a dope. l read the guide, which is absolutely brilliant. One thing caught my eye, regarding “an unsupported memory module/bank configuration”. I figured, surely I was doing it correctly. Well, I was not. I had only inserted two sticks, and it needs four minimum. Lesson...

Yep, I’ve got them set aside in DigiKey should I go replacement. However, as much as I’ve been trying to avoid it I’m going to need to check the lines first before I start swapping parts.

Wow, that guide looks fantastic. I’ve got some upcoming travel, and this will be great to read through and do some learning. Appreciate the resources! Let’s see if I can get this one going.

Ok, the board soak did a little but not a heck of a lot. I’ll probably skip it next time. After cleaning, it was no longer doing death chimes. So, continuing on… Lifting the chips was actually quite easy. My first time and it went wonderfully. Good to finally put my hot air station to use...

Yup, definitely some lifted legs. I've captured some photos of the corrosion areas, and I'll capture the same areas after an evapo rust bath to see how well it works. I wasn't able to get much definitive "before and after" evidence of how well it works for this sort of task, so maybe this will...

Here's a close-up of UJ2 and UJ3, the two that appear to have the most corrosion from the battery leakage. Seeing the photo in full, I think I can see some legs that look lifted already. They're unfortunately slightly out of focus but I can take another to get a better look at em.