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Just to note, the cap at C4 is missing so If you didn't remove it then take extra care as chances are the corrosion in that area is particularly bad.

Very cool! Definitely something of interest!

As I recall, I just used the software for the OneScanner and that worked for me!

I don’t think it’s fair to call all AI work slop. Stories and artwork created by ai, with all those usual tell tale signs and show low effort.. yeah, they definitely count as slop.. and frankly are becoming quite a problem. Applications and utilities that work as they’re expected to, and help...

I’d forgotten about that! I do have the memory of a goldfish though. It’d seem Omni is a rather popular name! What about RussetTalk? BallyfattenTalk? ErisTalk?

This is a very cool project and I look forward to trying it out! That said, I’d suggest you have a look into the name, there’s a company called the Omnigroup that make mac and iOS software like Omnigraffle (which is actually a very cool package) and they may take exception to a package that...

Which version of the EarthWatts are you using? There seems to be a fair few around, but I can’t see any supplying 30a on the 5v rail.

Yep... I mean how many times have we seen articles posted about manufactures who have installed caps backwards? The LCIII is a prime example of that. Or that time that British Leyland tweaked their galvanisation process to improve rust protection, but actually made the cars rust worse. Or...

CroissantKing, torturer of glue chips! Have you considered a career in destructive testing? 🤔😅

Well that’s a bummer! And quick work.. I was gonna go try that out tomorrow when I get back from Glasgow, but you beat me to the punch 😅

Sounds like a fun little project 😉

Has anyone ever tried to get a PC floppy drive to work with a retail board?

Maybe one day we’ll have another get together and you can see mine 🙂

Interesting, so I’m guessing that the driver developers hard coded “Ethernet” as the port to look for on that. I’ve never successfully got my PC Card to work with networking, I wonder if that’s why. I’ll have to give it a try sometime.

It’s plausible that original bridge has damaged other components on the board and caused the shorts there, so don’t just look for other trace related problems. A thermal camera may come in handy here’s

Oh this is perfect! I need to replace the PSU in my 8100 with an ATX and I was trying to figure out the logistics of getting it into the existing PSU and making it look stock!

I guess it depends on if there’s any other potential sources of an over voltage. Might be worth probing the pins from a known working board and then comparing the voltages to that to the broken one before swapping… though personally if it were me I’d probably just swap and pray to the flying...

So, my educated guess is that the soldering around C10 has shorted a 5v line to a 12v line. I have a vague recollection of someone else doing that around here. The problem is if that’s happened it may well have destroyed other components on the board too. First thing I’d do is check for any...

So unfortunately I’ve not had much going on lately conquest wise, but I did get a BNIB sealed copy of Starfleet Academy a little while ago.. ironically I got it before the TV series started, and I’ve only just opened the box now after it was cancelled!

How are you planning to rebuild the 950 lock? I have a 950 but with the wrong key, so I’d love to know how you accomplish this and see if I can replicate it!