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Well I'm probably gonna give up on this repair until i can either find a replacement board, or the tools necessary to actually find the problem. Probably some complex memory problem

Even with the ATX upgrade, i get -10.99 volts on the -12v line going to the motherboard, is this within tolerances? Seems a bit too high to me.

Should I wash it off with vinegar or ethanol? It could be soapy residue from previous attempts to clean it off. I do know soap can be conductive.

So I removed the RAM upgrades installed and ran it on just the 4 sticks, i powered it on, and instead of the simasimac pattern, the screen had that normal screen background as expected, but the floppy disk icon didn't appear, so i figured "oh maybe it needs the floppy drive" so i plugged the FDD...

Hello, finally got around to doing the modification, great news, i have startup sound, bad news, it's the death chime. And there are still horizontal bars on the screen. Any ideas of what is next to do?

So there's this brown stuff around a lot of the solder joints on the PSU board https://imgur.com/a/2peDcek I think it's best i replace the PSU entirely like this http://bylenga.ddns.net/index2.php?page=SE_ATX.php

Cant really spot any bulging or leaking capacitors, anyone have any suggestions? https://imgur.com/a/63OqN3r

Well then, I don't think I can get just the supply without buying a whole functioning SE or SE/30 where I live, so i'm probably better off inspecting the analog board on the SE/30 tomorrow and look for any bulged or leaking capacitors, might as well take out the CRT and retrobright the thing...

would it be safe to throw the SE/30 board over into my Classic II? I think the power connectors are the same, but I just want to be sure so i dont mess things up even worse

Yo, I just went to double check the voltages, the +12 volt going to the motherboard was 9.20-ish volts, could this be the cause? -12v is around where it should be though

How much would such a fix cost, including shipping? @Bolle

Drying it in front of a space heater for a few hours (very effective, heats the entire board up, so there was no water at all left), tried it again, no dice. Seems this board is just no good. Poo, guess i can sell for spare parts since i wont be able to afford anything to test the damn thing...

After washing the board, and rinsing it again, after it had dried for a while, weird white spots had appearad around some of the caps, now all of the caps i installed were brand new, installed with the right polarity, and the water i used was just warm, but not hot tap water and dish washing...

Sorry, my multimeter is complete crap, it doesn't even do capacitance test, it only does voltage and resistance test, and it updates at a rather low frequency,so i dont think it's going to be useful. I'll just wash the board again and hope in the slim chance i missed some electrolyte that's been...

Sadly, I do not have an oscilloscope, or the money to buy an oscilloscope, so I cannot test for that. but I'll see if i can find any shorts between traces.

I tested all the pins coming from the SIMM socket to all it's corresponding connections, Data 0-31, Adress 2-22, "rom" line to the "glue chip" +5v and ground, there's continuity on all of them. Do you think it's possible the ROM i have is just bad?

I tested all the connections, i saw go from ROM simm slot to the chips on the card itself and i could trace everything back to a pin somewhere and test (couldn't test some things because the traces disappeared in under the chips and i didn't know where it would go), I feel so lost right now...

I had success with white vinegar to clean up the board of my SE/30, although it was a lot less worse

I'll try that tomorrow

I did test all the connections from the vias on the ROM SIMM to the joints under the connector itself, got continuity on all of them. Dont think thats the issue. I tested the address bus to the muxes and found continuity, will do the data bus later