Has Techknight gone on holiday , or retired ?? - hes the man that would figure this out in no time
I went back at my machine - i swapped the 1uf 50v cap in mine with a tant when i recapped the machine as i didnt have a radial - i found one today so put that in .......... machine is better ...
Just to chime in ......... I have exact same problem ........same low 5 volt at power up , slowly climbing to 5 volt then booting
I recapped the board ( well , the caps recommended to replace anyway )
I have the same ( but not as bad) area of protective layer been eaten by leaking...
Another stupid problem.
Just recapped the analog board out of my classic
When i first powered it up I got a wavy chess board display
after a minute or 2 I noticed the 'wavy' display was not as wavy
waited a bit more and it started to chime
it eventually boooted up perfectly
I plugged it...
you dont need a schematic
you know what keys dont work
you see where they are in the membrane
you see the 2 contacts for the switch
put your continutity test from the start of the ribbon cable to the black contacts of the actual switch - the black contact surface will give you goos contact...
I have fixed these membranes using stuff called 'bare conductive electric paint'
its just a small tube of black gooey stuff
you find the break in the trace on the membrane , put down some masking tape either side of the trace , and basically paint a tiny amount of the stuff over where you...
thanks for that crioss - i guess i can put the roms in my programmer and see if theres anything left in them
and with that link you gave i now know the kind of chips ill have to order if i fried the roms .......
cheers man
cheers croissantking - this machine , I have been at it for some time - recapped it 2 years ago - stupidly hit off 2 of the caps doing something else , tore off some pads - put it back in attic for a while to calm down - took it down last week , fiked the broken pad damage and decided to convert...
while waiting on the parts i found a dead classic in the attic and took the parts from that machines analog board - happy to say the conversion to 240 volt is a success
I had to adjust the little trim pot in the center of the analog to get the volts up a bit - they are now at 4.9 and 12.3...
have you tried GENTLY giving the mac a few nudges - as in hit it gently on the side to see if the display jumps - that would show dry connections- i have used a bit of wood to 'tap ' on the analog board of a mac , with the cover off and the mac running - - i have found similar problems on logic...
has anyone else done this - 110 to 240
I have looked at some of my other machines that have the same analog board that were shipped as 240 volt machines and they have the same capacitors as the 110 volt version
i dont get it
wow - i was gonna plug it in !!!!
So I have to change out some other caps as well ??? dang !!
i would prob have blown the crap out of it - i definately dont have those caps - will have to order them
is that what you did mg man? did you swap out caps as well as changing the jumpers ?
man ...
I just removed CP 13 to see if there is anything written under there - and there is - I have to jump JP2 as well
so remove jp1 , remove top capacitor ( cp13) and jump JP2 ?
Just a quick question folks.
I have a 110 volt Performa 200. I have recapped the logic board and all is fine.
analog is 110 volt and Im about to change it to 240 volt , for here in Ireland.
As far as I know its just a case of removing the jumper JP1 off the analog board. Thats it down there...
did you try reseating all the chips that are in chip holders ?
that video rom chip looks off - looks like its twisted - take them out carefully , check the pins and put them back carefully
did you go over the board with a tooth brush and clean it ? - i can see dirt all over it still. You need...
I dont care what the build specs says , if im taking out the analog or screen on ANY 68K mac I ground the anode
Ive heard the same , post plus machine's are 'supposed' to have bleed resistors , and to back that up the only machines I ever heard the spark from were 128's and 512's.
Although...
Still working on the same SE.
Besides the brightness being way too high there is another very annoying problem.
The 40mb drive makes a horrible metalic screeching noise - sounds like ecto-1 from ghost busters !!!!
The drives works great even pass's apple diagnostics
Is there any way to fix...
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