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Is this a crack in the casing?

Sounds like it might be your anode cap or flyback are leaking. It could be your anode cap isn't secured/seated properly. That or your flyback might have a crack. Put it in a dark room and see if you see any arcing. You recapped it so i'm not going to give you the whole spiel about monitor...

Thats how i'd do it. It'd be easy to toggle a relay with a single push button. The easiest way, obviously, would to just install a toggle switch into the expansion cover (on the bracket) and run two wires to it. That wouldn't be any fun though.

A relay to toggle the 12v on/off then. I, obviously, haven't looked at the circuit yet

That should be fairly easy to do with the power supply being seperate from the analog board. Just isolate the 110v going to the monitor circuit with a relay (so you could toggle it on/off). The trick would be doing it unobtrusively.

I'm not sure if they're requiring you to get 5 or not, but If so I'd be interested in one if your selling the extras. If not, if anyone has a spare iifx reloaded pcb they want to sell lmk.

At this point I would check my termination power and verify my bluescsi with a different one. Also... make sure your formatting you sd card correctly (exfat or fat32) and see if you can put a blank hda in it and install to it from floppy (ive had bad sd's that wouldnt format correctly). If your...

Oh. And verify all your voltages are good coming from your analog board

If that's the case you either have a scsi issue or bluescsi issue. I haven't seen a bluescsi hardware issue (as of yet), but I've had a number of scsi issues. I take it you've done the diode mod for scsi termination since the bluescsi was working before. First thing I would do is try another...

I'd try reformatting the sd card and putting a fresh copy of your drive on it. I've had this happen to me a couple of times and this solved it (my bluescsi not booting that is)

This is a super cool project! I've been wanting to have some sort of kvm for a while for my different machines. It looks like you've got the 'K' part sussed. I'm definetly down for building one once your happy with the finished product. Thanks!!!

The built in self test you ran confirmed all is good.. it makes sure all the checksums are correct. You can use the other programs to test peripherals, but because they were written before 2e was a glimmer in apple's eyes the checksums weren't included. I'm not sure if there is a diagnostics...

Your machine is fine. Your using apple 2 plus software to test an apple 2e. It might run fine (that was apple's goal after all), but the rom checksums they used weren't the same.

The flyback is driven off of 12v (12f). There shouldn't be any difference between the 220v and the 110v analog board flyback. I would, however, verify the flybacks part #'s are the same. That or make sure the updated/different flyback is a compatible part for your analog board.

Flyback is definetly gonna need to be replaced. They crack like that when the internal windings short. You can test it with a ringer(lopt tester), but I'm 99% sure it's done. If it's the 1% your gonna have to fill the crack with hv putty and find you another flyback because it's not gonna last...

If you pull the card your going to have to come up with a processor for the iix (if you intend to sell it too). It looks like they pulled the processor to install that card (the pcb your card plugs into goes directly into the processor socket). As for the video - as long as you have a a mac to...

You could always get a boot disk off ebay or a local seller for cheap (if your local to me id give you one). Saying that since it hasn't been recapped/cleaned your best bet would be a floppy emu or a bluescsi (or Zuluacsi) . These are all newer tools that emulate older hardware and are the...

One little 5v short slowed me down, but 2 plcc's removed and replaced... One IIci rebuild up and running! Chuffed!