I understand. Maybe MDS could help there. But inline assembler is a very nice old-style inline assembler, where you just do stuff like _asm { and then type lines of assembly until you want to stop with } . It's not like GNU inline assembler. It sets up a stack frame, which costs a couple of...
I played with Retro68 for the work I did on MODTracker, but frankly I'd choose THINK C 5 as it's a much cleaner, direct development environment. It works under System 6 and you can do inline assembly pretty well. You can write your VBL (replayer/mixer) task to work in inline assembly. Assembly...
The homepage's first image is of a desktop version, so basically anywhere you can buy BlueSCSI. I got mine from Europe as I'm British, but I think you'll find resellers in the US will have the internal desktop version too.
https://bluescsi.com/
Hi @Phipli , while I wait for the downstairs living room to be cool enough to sleep in (upstairs is 2.5°C warmer), I can already answer the ram question. It has 3 DIMMs, so it will be 64MB*2+32MB.
Cheers julz
I needed them! Upgrading from 350MHz to 400MHz needs 6 jumpers. The HD only provided 5, but I could use the end one from the original jumper block (which now pokes out beyond the jumper pins). Now my B&W G3 appears to run at 400MHz!
Apple System Profiler now says:
Sensibly I have VM turned on...
I think you're right! I saw they might be when I posted the photo.
Oh, OK. But how would a 512kB ROM work? This is the ST MF101.
I can see a spare pin (pin 30) for A17, but not one for A18, unless VPP is reappropriated and it's 5V only. Hmmm, close guess by me. This is the AMD 29F040:
It's...
Hi @Phipli ! I found a 4GB Seagate SCSI HD with quite a few 2mm jumpers and an ST M28F101 -150 which is a 12V Flash with the same pinout and speed!
I think it might be OK to cannibalise it as there's a distinct rattle when I twist it back and forth. It's probably dead.
-cheers from Julz
.... I'll give you 1 guess on whether I knew that trick ;-)
By changing the PLL?
Oh gosh! It's just a jumper block!
(S = Jumper present or "Set", " " = no jumper)
Multiple | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
- -----------+---+---+---+---+
3x 300 MHz | | S | S | S |...
That’s very kind (you know my address)! But only on condition I send you a replacement or reimburse you by some other means. I still haven’t tested the OPL chips!
So I think I know how I’d do this, then. Snip the legs of the existing one and then I can de solder with ease? Then I can solder the...
Yes, I usually try to make sure the ICs are readable, but that was shameful! I opened it up and took a new photo:
So, it's an AMD, AM28F010! It's quit interesting how such a simple, and ancient chip could present this kind of hurdle!
-cheers from Julz
Thanks for the reply! When you say "our" ROM, do you mean the ROM in the SATA PCI card or the ROM in my Blue and White G3, or another ROM? I thought it was an AM28F020, but its logo implies otherwise I think?
When it cools down a bit in the office, I'll pop up; check it out again and get a...
(and @croissantking , @adespoton ). I don't really have a proper programmer. To program the Flash I'm thinking of doing something fairly nasty:
I don't have a suitable hot-air gun, never likely to do enough of this to justify buying one & I'm not good at wicking away solder. I have an Arduino...
The lack of OSHW FPGA tools is mostly why I've shied away from FPGA development. I just don't want to do it on a PC/Windows. I understand Tang Nano has OSHW tools?
@Melkhior does this mean your FPGA Sparc is on hold?
Hi @croissantking,
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, in AppleTalk it appeared as Alternate Ethernet. Couldn't see any reference to it in TCP/IP. I saw the Connect Card appear on the desktop. I found a crossover cable to replace the previous, thru cable. I'm using my B&W G3 350 under Mac OS 9.1 (the...
I have a sonic ConnectCard for my PB1400c/166 and I've installed drivers, but I haven't managed to prove it can work yet: maybe I need a crossover ethernet cable? Also I'm using Mac OS 8.1.
-cheers from Julz
Hi folks,
Thanks for the replies.
So you're saying that the screw studs are soldered, but there's nothing below the studs on the PCB, so you can drill through it; put a screw underneath (e.g. 2mm) poking up through the PCB and then use a spring+nut to hold it in place like the previous one...
I have thought about that, but the screw is only about 1mm, maybe 1.5mm in diameter ( would have to check). But I don't have a tap and die set. My Dad does, somewhere, but it'd be hard to dig out I think.
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