why not make a single project thread for this se/30 board? would make things more organized ;)
anyways. lots of flux and fresh solder
i apply lots of flux paste to the legs. then reflow all the legs. then I use my hot air station in a circular motion, aiming at the legs.
i poke the PLCC with...
hat isn't necessary for LToUDP, it's only needed for REAL localtalk :)
this is very doable, you just need to change the tashrouter config to be ethertalk and LToUDP only.
on a whim I searched https://discmaster.textfiles.com/ for "deskscene", and a few files showed up. I see a compactpro archive, and a bare executable file.
there's always a rear polarizer. that's how they work ;)
getting the old polarizer off and cleaning the bad glue is the first step. playing with polarizer films is a comparatively easy step.
and then you gotta stick new stuff on. that's the hard part.
i should get back to attempting a...
vague question. what are you trying to do?
what does the processor speed matter?
do you mean wifi pcmcia cards?
OSX? OS9?
for OS9 the proxim should work fine.
check on macintoshgarden. stay away from the awful website that is mac crapository.
you won't get G or N speeds on OS9, and you're...
what do you mean by that?
if you're not getting ROM activity you won't get a chime... but, you should hear something of a pop if you're listening with headfones
imo beep out all the address lines and data lines. yeah it sucks. you gotta do it though.
and double check for bridges on all PLCCs
rust converters are decent, but will leave the item blackened
i've used Evaporust on battery damaged SE/30 metals.
the thing is, it will strip the top layer off the metal. you need to spray it with a clear coat or zinc primer to prevent it from oxidizing.
you can solder cr2032 holders to the mainboard.
on most of my machines I have desoldered the 1/2 AA holders and replaced them with the buttoncells. now nobody will ever suffer a stupid leak! probably.
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