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It doesn't look in the wrong position in the pic ... I'm sure you can find another part.

Got it! Manual here - branded as ATEN here: https://assets.aten.com/product/manual/un_161.pdf And Mac, Windows drivers here (hopefully not in Italian language): https://www.aten.com/it/it/products/soluzioni-usb/dock-e-switch/un161/

This link, says the brand is ハイパーツールズ or "Hypertools", there might be an Archive.org website for it somewhere. Keep in mind it's USB 1.1 speeds only and competed with RS232C cables as a "fast" solution but you will be there all day transferring files using it...

Check the Commslot for any pin damage/debris/clean it You can put a Mac compatible PCI network card in the 6360 is only single slot but some have added two cards with the right PCI riser.

Yeah, no matter how hard you try to remove corrosion/cap goo from, it can always bite back or degrade long term

Cool, hope to try it soon - the nasty laugh from Enchanted Scepters needs to be heard :D

That's good it shows some life, the SE are the cockroaches of compact Macs and usually reliable, yours might have a bad caps in the PSU or analogue board. Silly question but have to ask - you have the monitor brightness all the way up? You can test the PSU voltages from the floppy port - see...

Best place to prove the voltages on an MDD would be on the PSU connector itself; the unit gets hot wide open so maybe point a fan at the internals while doing tests. Check the +25V ADC voltage with the ADC monitor connected especially under heavy load. Pinout is here (random link double check...

Yes, it's re-soldering time to get it booting then can focus on other issues. Ideally try to suck up the old solder round the yoke connector, motherboard wiring connector, flyback and replace with new.

Scrape back the silk screening to reveal the copper and place the cap at a slight angle, should be OK you might want to put a small dab of hot glue on it to keep still.

I'd try another monitor (or unplug your monitor and continue to play a DVD perhaps) along with testing the +28V rail for ADC; the 15" ADC was pretty reliable but the 17" ADC often had issues with the inverter board, perhaps a similar issue with yours.

Hi. I know what you mean, I've not encountered it on Mac SD/CF devices, but some of my DOS solid state devices I need to format relatively often. The answer would be to try brand new, high quality cards (I've often hit the jackpot here looking for locally sold private seller CF, SD cards on...

A 12V fan at 5V might not spin up, need to check specs of unit

... they will work fine but full RPM, so check the specs Trash80 that you're not buying a wind turbine

A terrible design thanks Apple, and they used to break when new. How about a metal/3D printed thin plate like in some ATX cases that runs all the way along the top edge of the slots with holes to screw in the cards from the top?

First up I'd take off the lid and keep tapping the analogue board around the usual dry solder zones, it might spring to life all of a sudden. No luck, reflow without fail and then replace RAM

HI Classic II, That's a weird one, I'd reset the PRAM (which will reset to the default monitor/resolution) and check the external monitor port if there is any pin damage?

Gigabit ethernet was released many years after the 7" Cyrix 5x86 compatibility card so no surprise it didn't work? Good onboard works

That's a good lot - nice selection of vintage Mac eras.