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Yes its an stock 400k drive.

Success. It took me several days to build up a sufficient structure onto the arm. Now an inserted disk touches it and pressing it down into the light barrier which in itself activates the motor to turn the disc. Mission completed. :)

Yes there seems to be missing something on my drive. I watched @JDW s video on recapping those drives and on you can see how it is supposed to look. I took apart the drive and try to build up structure on the part that slides betweeen the photo sensor. I´ll put drops of epoxy over the next fews...

No, my does also have a photo diode which gets blocked when the plastic thingy (see https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/400k-floppy-drive-looking-for-3d-printer-file.48527/) is being pressed down by the floppy disk.

My 512k is slowly taking shape. I previously repaired its 400k drive and make it insert and eject disks properly. I removed the dried grease and reapplied new one. Also as my drive lost its upper head pressure pad I made a new one from a paper based cotton bud. Now that I have a working machine...

I did it. Those tabs are in fact controlling both directions. 😀

I know those two tabs but in my experience those only control the horizontal position of the picture.

The picture I get is It is shifted upwards. I can regulate it with the height adjustment pot, but this only streches the picture.

I'm doing small incremental steps towards a functional 512k. I replaced R56 and R57 with new pots (2.5M ohm ones; 2M ohm were not available). Now the dimming of the whole picture does not happen anymore. I also replaced the LM324 on U1 as I thought it fixes the upwards shifted picture. I read...

There where no unsoldered pins when I received the machine. I took the photos while repairing it. Yes those pots R56+57 where probably affected by the leaky battery. R56 (brightness) is working again after cleaning but a little bit scratchy, R57 (focus, according to AB cover sheet) is still stuck.

It took me a while to replace the diodes in question. After that the machine bongs and I had a picture. But within minutes the brightness degraded up to a point where I could barely see the floppy icon. The brightness adjust knob worked while this happened. I think that machine is cursed in some...

The BOM of the Analog Board replica (https://github.com/daanvdl/Macintosh-Analogboard) lists a 4N35 as a correct part.

I tried a second time with another CRT/coil. It sparks again but now I spotted the area. It the diodes CR9, CR10 and especially CR11. Measuring CR11 i have throughput in both directions. As a diode it should be conducting only in one direction. I have to source a replacement and lets cross...

Could be that the CRT or coil is faulty/shorted and caused the burn marks in first place? I dont know what happened to the machine before. I'm sure I cannot power on the analog board without a connected CRT, which makes testing the AB difficult. I have another CRT/coil from a battery bombed...

I have an 512k Macintosh on the bench which I'm about to revive. I did not turn it on upon receiving the machine cause the analog board showed burn marks on the coil connector. I know this type of damage from my Plus but not that severe. I replaced the connector and the plug on the CRT...

I modded the PSU I got and can report success. Even with an 17 inch LCD Studio Display it works properly. Granted, the Cube has an SSD not an spinning harddrive, so the load on the PSU should be lower than normal.

In the end it was a grounding issue I believe. The upper part including the button was mechanical not connected to the base. Just plugged into the LB for testing. As soon as the metal touched the base it all worked as expected. So the metal top must be connected to the base in some ways to have...

I got a second Cube recently but unfortunately its missing the PSU. I want to build a replacement PSU and want to use a ready made one. I can order a 28V PSU which has a rating of up to 3.4Amps. This is around 100W. It should be enough to power a stock Cube, right? Granted, using it with an...

Could it be a similar problem I had with a SE/30 drive a while back? https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/blown-component-on-sony-mp-f75w.44807/ I tried running it without the eject motor, but this seem to kill a component (Q4) on the drives PCB.

Small but important update: It's not the CPU that is faulty. It must be the power switch. As soon as the power switch of the cube is connected to the logic board it powers on instantly, then flashes a few times and then power cycles. If I disconnect the power button module this does not happen...