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There was a good video posted somewhere of the Noctua fan's CFM and acoustics versus a stock fan, can't find that YT vid now, but the results were pretty definitive. That might be why the 12v version is hard to get at the moment.

Those keys had some grime that soaking wouldn't remove, had to physically rub all (5) sides of each key with a paper towel, and there still looks to be stains. The board was covered in fine dust, almost like sand. What's with the salmon colored Caps Lock key? Getting ready to replace the (3)...

Got the PDS support bracket today, for use with BlueSCSI. Would fit absolutely perfect - - if I didn't have the top floppy. I need to adjust the printed tray, to allow for the extra length of the 50-pin SCSI cable. Don't need much more room, but going to have to figure it out, and edit the...

Very true! The pictures made it look worse than it appeared in person. Was still filthy though. Took it apart and cleaned it immediately. The best part is there were no spilled drinks, and 0 corrosion anywhere. Stoked! Need to pull all the keys to get the grime in between, but a surface clean...

Fixed above. [EDIT] looked up my Hakko FX-888D, it only does 899°F or 480°C. FR-301 is max 500°C.

Sorry for the confusion, my eyes seem to be getting worse, my Hakko station goes to 899°F, my FR-301, 500°C, which is what I was using.

The M0115 Keyboard is due to arrive today. It looks pretty foul in the ebay pics, hope the keys all work. Also, the Noctua AF-A6x25 case fan I ordered, turned out to be the 3-pin version, which is 5V and won't work. The 4-pin AF-A6x25 is the 12V model, and the correct fan - currently...

I've only done one logic board so far, an SE, but the Hakko FR-301 set at ([EDIT] 500°C not 800°C), pulled each axial cap out in less than 10 seconds (of total heat time). The higher temps are what made it easier for me, 750°C wasn't hot enough in my case. Did not cut the caps, removed them whole.

BlueSCSI provides a kit with all the pieces for assembly, that's about as far as I go. Paying extra for more boards, and rounding up all the components, wouldn't be the fun I was looking for, I like the assembly. Thanks though!

I meant a kit that comes with all the parts, just not assembled.

3D Printed the BlueSCSI back panel tray, for the desktop v2 model. Next to the included tray. My SE is missing the PDS support frame, that metal bracket. I have (2) 800K floppies, so I think it was removed when they added the HDD at some point. Recapped the Logic Board. Test fitting...

Decided to recap the logic board, and keyboard axial capacitors while I wait for Alps switches. My logic board has (11) caps total, (10) 33µF 16V, and (1) 1µF 50V. M0115 Extended Keyboard has (3) 1µF 50V caps. Will order this all tonight. The Hakko FR-301 is like cheating, makes this all...

Got the NP film cap oriented correctly, and removed the yellow glue, and put the clear back on. That fixed the picture noise, and distortions with graphics, especially the Welcome to Macintosh box on boot. Still waiting on those Alps switches.

Mounting the NP film cap like this on the analog board, has caused very minor distortions in the picture. The frame rate seems slightly lower, with nearly imperceptible flicker, and when bold graphics are loaded, the screen bulges past the vertical boundaries, very slightly, and in direct...

I found the Luminosity and Focus, gave those a turn, and all is well. Waiting on the Alps switches still.

Got the axial caps installed. But without touching anything else, my screen is a bit blurry or out of focus now, and way too bright, the knob can't go low enough. There are also horizontal lines through out the picture. Is there a good link to how to adjust the SE picture, after a recap...

Can you get any high resolution pictures of the PCB on your FDD?

Popped a Vishay axial cap, had a hot polyester confetti party. Axial caps can be deceiving, they have arrows on them that label the flow, cathode bands, chamfered ends. Which end is positive? Be careful when consulting Digi-Key: Vishay have the chamfer and banded cathode, the chamfered end...

Quite right, thanks for that!

If the factory glued them, I might as well too. All I had was this yellow glue. Those caps aren't going anywhere, on there good now. Will reassemble and test.