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Where did you find this? Are they still available for sale somewhere? I've been thinking about doing a similar job to my battery-damaged classic board. I tried the same serial diagnostic that you did, but I couldn't get it to work either. My Classic must be too far gone. I think it might be...

I think I know which piece you are referring to now: https://www.amazon.com/USB-C-2-5mm-Emulator-Trigger-Laptop/dp/B07P81526M

I used a standard USB-C to USB-C cable, the same one I use to charge my Google Pixel phone.

Have you confirmed the serial adapter works with another computer? I think you can use a program called Zterm on a vintage Mac to test this. Another program that I used a couple of years back is called MicroPhone (I can't remember, but this one might be better than Zterm?). You should be able to...

Bummer about the wrong pinout serial cable. For the USB-serial adapter, I had success using a standard DB9 adapter with a second DB9 to DIN cable connected between it and the Macintosh. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PCCables-com-Female-Mini-8-pin-Male/dp/B00ALULFX0...

Great work bringing the power supply and analog board back to life! While the computer still isn't booting, we now know most of the main components are working. You should be able to use any modern computer and a USB to serial adapter. Something like a Unix/Linux terminal, ZTERM, or PuTTY...

This sounds like it might be a RAM issue to me. My theory is that OS9 likely uses more RAM than OS8, so it doesn't exhibit symptoms under OS8. I wonder what happens if you saturate the RAM when running OS8. Does it crash? I'd try replacing the RAM stick and see what happens.

Good work on the battery-damaged logic board! I did something to a similar PCB a few years ago, and almost got it working again. (You've reminded me I should dig it out and play with it again :).) From your photos, it looks to me like there's a considerable amount of capacitor leakage on the...

I've done overclocking to my clamshell. The improved performance results were absolutely worth it for me. You should be comfortable soldering resistors that small, but otherwise, as long as you start with a light overclock, and build up from there, I think the risks aren't terribly high. I did...

If you unplug both the SSD and the CD-ROM drive, you should still expect to see a blinking system folder with a question mark. If this doesn't show up, something else must be wrong with the iBook. If Open Firmware isn't loading, this seems like it may be a more significant issue than just the...

Is the display's video connector fully seated? If only the backlight were plugged in, you'd see a blank white screen, but nothing more.

Great work! When I get a chance this week, I hope to do a similar mod to a PowerBook G4's LCD.

If you just want internal color, wouldn't it be a lot cheaper and easier to use another more plentiful video card, like the IIsi PDS card (the $10 one that needs to be cut with a saw)? I'm not sure I see the advantage to using this expensive custom greyscale card if its greyscale capabilities...

You were right --here is my PowerBook 1400cs running off of USB-C!

Update: I received the BixPower and 20V USB-PD adapters and connected them to my iBook G3 Clamshell. These work perfectly, and despite the original charger providing 24V, the iBook seems to function correctly with only 20V of power. I am using the 96W power brick that came with my MacBook Pro...

I use this T12 soldering station...

I've been meaning to find a replacement barrel jack for one of these chargers as well. My idea is that theoretically, a custom USB-C PD to Mac charger cable could be made, which would make it a lot easier to find a reliable charger (just plug it into your modern laptop power brick). Also, if...

I didn't use any resistors when I did my mod. I also removed the CCFL driver board entirely, but I don't know if this was the right decision. It looks like your LED driver board differs slightly from mine, but they are based on the DF6113 IC. You mentioned that lower brightness settings made...

Good work! I did something very similar to my iBook clamshell backlight a few years ago, but never quite got the brightness control working perfectly. I'm curious to see what you figure out with the LM1172. https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/upgrading-ibook-clamshell-display.38727/

I remember having a really hard time finding the right value PRAM capacitor. I believe I just bought one that was roughly near the original value, and it worked fine.