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I built a couple Performer '030 accelerator clones for a Plus/SE. The math benchmark was actually higher without the crystal (FPU running at the same 16mhz as the CPU) than it was with a 25mhz crystal. If you get around to doing that please post some benchmarks, I'm curious if it would make a...

Following with interest, while simultaneously having flashbacks of the IIsi board that kicked my butt.

Nice, I'm glad you were able to do that swap. Even though I will never do anything with that machine requiring a FPU, it's nice to know it's there. How hard was it to remove the CPU from the board? The only through-hole CPU I tried to remove was a '030, I gave up because there were some pins...

Which RAM SIMM sockets did you get from PE? I assume HWS5040? I need to step up and buy those, I've been putting it off since its $40 for 8, but I know I'll regret reusing the old plastic clip sockets down the road.

I'm at almost the same spot on my build. I think you're going faster than I am, I look forward to seeing the progress.

Adding to my prior post, and echoing what was said above... Don't rush this, look at it as a learning experience. It may take some time, but there are a lot of very knowledgeable people in this forum that are happy to help out.

Also take a close look at all components on the analog board for damage. Look for parts that look like they have gotten hot. Or burned marks on the board around parts. Have you tried wiggling the cable between the logic board and analog board while the machine is running? This should be done...

No, referring to post #23 on the prior page. Just general advice to always use plastic screwdrivers when making CRT/analog board adjustments with the machine running, not machine specific.

A few posts back joshc mentioned precautions to take if you are making adjustments to the CRT. Adding to that, only use plastic tools to make adjustments, never metal. Sets of plastic TV adjustment screwdrivers are cheap.

Thank you, this is great info!

+1 for polymer caps, they don't suffer from this problem, and they retain the look of the original electrolytic caps.

If you are only ordering caps, I would recommend Console 5. They have cap kits ready to go, all quality caps, and for similar prices to Mouser. If I'm putting in a larger order I'll buy caps from Mouser, but if I'm only getting caps I would rather save the trouble of picking parts and just order...

Are there obtainable PDS video cards that would work in an IIsi with a dual PDS riser card? I think they existed, but I don't know how common they were, or if they can be found these days.

That cap looks a bit rough. I heard recently, maybe from Adrian's Digital Basement, that a bulging appearance is normal for those large caps with the plastic bit covering the top of the cap, and it is not necessarily a sign of leakage. That one is bulging quite significantly though, it would...

I just ran across this old post while searching for some info. As Bolle mentions below the Performer project is on his GitHub, I built a couple and put together a writeup of the build (link). It would be helpful if you are thinking about building one.

Have you checked the Dead Mac Scrolls to see if it addresses this symptom? You can find it with a Google search, make sure to find an OCR version that is text searchable.

Great, this is very helpful, please update if you find any errors in your list. Are you recapping any of the other boards? Why are you recapping? Preemptively, or to try to fix an issue? Mine works fine but is a bit dimmer than I think it should be, but it's been so many years since I used one...

This is what I have on my plus board. This is a one-piece pin header with supports connecting the sides, if I do this again I will just use machined header strips like Bolle mentioned above. This is the general idea though. I don't think there is any way to avoid soldering headers to the CPU...

If you have not, you should disassemble the drive, clean, and lube all the contact points. There are some good videos on youtube about how to do it, it is not very complicated, just takes a bit of time.

As you can see in my posts, I had very mixed luck with the GALs. They all tested good after burning, and I was very careful when soldering them and checking continuity, yet sometimes they didn't work. I would recommend keeping on trying a couple more times. I wish I had better advice, but I...