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That is indeed completely wrong on the schematic and PCB, the negative pin on the DC jack needs to be on the ground plane. If you tie the connection labeled (-) to the ground pin of C1 that should (poorly) fix the problem (though see below note). Sorry about that, it's a straight-up error on my...

Missed this yesterday, I'll see if I can get some light into this.

Definitely be interested to hear if it works, it technically should but it isn't anything I've tested. If it does function it might be a future use case for the I2C connector, something to allow devices to coordinate switching between themselves.

The extra ADB can be used to attach more peripherals if needed. It is mainly there for devices without a passthrough plug. Can be left out to shave a buck or two off the assembly cost. The TWI connection is for future add-ons, like a monitor switcher board, external buttons, etc. No software...

It should be fine, most of the changes were quite minor. Definitely post any troubles and I'd be happy to help. I'm still a bit buried with work but am hoping to have more time for this stuff over the holiday breaks coming up.

PR looked great, it is now merged. Thanks again!

Really big thanks to @demik, this is awesome work! Also thanks to @cheesestraws for the graphics. Those are some snazzy panels, my spouse got a real kick out of seeing scuzzy the snail appearing again.

Thanks for the picture, that's quite helpful for getting an idea of the end product. My spouse does waterslide decals for ship models and offered to help, I'll give that a go and see what it looks like before digging into the silkscreening.

Thanks for the link, I'll do some reading on the background there.

:ROFLMAO: Thanks for the silkscreen idea, I'll ask around. I know zilch about the process so it'll be a good learning opportunity.

I've got a project Mac II without the "Macintosh II" label on the front. It looks like some bozo (not me this time) decided it would look better without it and scrubbed the area clean. Anyone been able to restore this type of thing? Is this a job for decals, or is there another option available?

Thanks! I've been slowly digging at it as I get time. Quite annoyingly, licensing is the current problem: the Bluetooth SDK library, btstack, doesn't appear to be compatible with the GPL, so I can't use the example code as a base and even linking to the library may also be a problem. I'm trying...

Those all look good to me. The other thing that might be worth adding is a nod toward enabling atalkd if you do set "appletalk = yes"

Wanted to give a short trip report of my experience installing Netatalk 4. TL;DR: release is working great for me, no problems so far. I installed 4.0.1, compiled from source on Debian stable. Instructions here worked perfectly. After installation I perused the excellent 2.x->4.0 upgrade guide...

That's a neat find, quite clean as mods go. Maybe the previous owner upgraded from a pre-SE compact and was unhappy their machine was making fan noise at all?

I'll have to look, supposedly there are newer versions of the original iMac firmware on the OS install disks. Based on other people's reports I'm kind of suspecting even the newest firmware on the original iMac isn't capable of proper USB booting. For what it's worth the command itself worked...

I think you can configure Kea that way using a variant of the following: Disclaimer: this is untested. I keep my retro systems on a separate VLAN so Kea is handling all address assignment.

For @Snial, did some testing today with USB booting on my Summer 2000 iMac DV+ (450MHz). Open Firmware reports this as "PowerMac2,2 3.0f3 BootROM built on 06/13/00" which seems old compared to similar systems on this list. The computer has a good OS 9 install on it already, but I will be needing...

The library should only modify packets with the "netboot" class attached to them. That's added by the option 221 test in the example config file. All other DHCP/BOOTP traffic should be handled normally by Kea. If you have an existing DCHP server then yes, this setup will interfere with it. You...

One bit of caution, some cheap S-Video cables tie one or more lines together or to the cable shield. If you're hacking a cable together buzz out the lines with a meter before using it.