Personally I wouldn’t waste my time with that board… it’s gonna have trace damage all over the place, including the inner layers. I can’t get the images to zoom where I am but it looks like there’s damage to some chips too, although they may well be salvageable.
I’d say that’s much more of a...
If that board doesn't require the slots to be populated, I don't see why they would need to be there.. other than probably would be good to have them available for diagnostics before you start adding on external components.
I wouldn’t bother trying to save the board, it’s multilayer and the traces running under it will almost certainly have been damaged. Doing a reloaded board is fairly easy.. time consuming and annoying at times (some parts are a PITA to remove). You’ll want to at the very least get replacements...
Oh absolutely, and it is in very good condition too! I just wish I’d had a better look for the bottom case bit. Fortunately it’s almost identical to the snow iMac case (sans the pink Apple logo at the back) so I can always grab one from a dead one of those to replace it
Yeah basically. I so desperately wanted to save a graphite iMac that was next to it, but I didn’t want to get rumbled and have to put back the flower power!
Don’t suppose anyone happens to have a white bottom case for one of these?
They're a different size.. the floppy connector is further away than the original... different port config at the rear.. power supply is configured differently (although I imagine it could be adapted fairly easily since there's no soft power on either model)..
Wouldn't it just be easier to...
As I recall, There’s a lot of ram slot traces on one of the internal layers of the PCB that run directly under the battery area, which may have been damaged even by a light leak, so might be a good idea to tone those out too.
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