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Ah, good pictures in that MacRumors thread. Yeah, desolder, replace with screws. That's the way.

I think I see what you're suggesting and it might work, but how are those studs attached to the board? Is the whole thing soldered into the board, or is there a nut soldered into the board that the stud is threaded into? If the latter, you may just be able to replace it, but you would need to...

Thanks! I just checked that card and its ROM chip is an ST 25P05V6, which means I did not pull off the original ROM chip and replace it, but rather overwrote the PC ROM with the full Mac ROM. So the PC ROM is gone; sorry about that. I have not been very careful about archiving vintage PC stuff...

Yes, that's an older (NV25-based, 2x/4x AGP) Ti4200. It can be made to work in a Mac with a custom ROM. The ROM Maker app is on MacRumors and I think MacOS9Lives, too. It takes the PC ROM as input and generates a Mac ROM. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.

You've got ten 68k machines and one PowerPC. Is there anything PowerPC-specific that you like to do with the 8500 that you can't do with the rest of them? If so, it should probably stay, if not, it should probably go. I have opinions on the others but let's start with that :)

You guys seem to be having a lot of fun :) I was hoping I could join in, but I'm not sure: I've been using this card in an old PC just for booting into DOS to test and flash PC video cards. I grabbed it from a scrap bin many years ago and kept it around because it worked, and I thought it...

Lots of Radeon 9000 news today--I got a package from Japan and this was inside: I'm not sure whether this is an OEM or retail card but it has an Apple part number sticker with 630-4254, so I guess that means OEM? Would've come in an MDD then, I think. Anyway, it has the 3.3ns Hynix RAM chips...

Bummer. Since you have it in a PC, you might be able to boot into DOS and use R6XMEMID to narrow down which DRAM channel(s)/bit(s) are having errors. I'm not sure what the mapping of channels to physical chips is on these cards, but there's a Radeon 9200 schematic posted at VOGONS and the 9000...

Nice work! The switch thing is also mentioned at The Mac Elite. My PC Radeon 9000 Pro card might be a bit of an oddball. Here's its switch footprint under magnification: As you can see, the top pads do not connect to anything! Even if one of those dual switches was populated, the top switch...

Awesome find! That looks like an early board with a socketed CPU; those are the best ones IMO. I agree on the logic board recapping. I am not a stickler for preventative recapping but the SE/30 is an exception. All SE/30 logic boards need to be recapped immediately. There will be electrolyte...

Thank you for all of this valuable information! I have some Mach 5 CPU cards on the way to play with. I already have a Scirocco card (from 8500/180) and a Helmwind card (from 9600/233) on hand. Do you have any advice for removing the heat spreaders on the IBM 604e3s?

Another push and twist practitioner here, for what it's worth.

Thanks! Now I have a reason to be optimistic. I will post my results when I get around to playing with them.

@stynx I recently found a decent deal on a pair of the same IBM dual CPU cards with 350MHz 604ev chips, so I bought them to play around with: Do you remember whether the CPUs you got from these cards were version 10,1 or 9,31? I hope mine are 9,31 so I can use them on Kansas CPU cards with a...

Pop open the door and take a picture, lots of experienced people here will be able to tell you what if anything is missing.

The aluminum polymer caps recommended by finkmac above are nice because they are sized correctly for the pads on the logic board. No risk of shorting nearby traces due to solder mask damage like there is with tantalums.

Early ADC G4s supplied 28V, but the later ones (like Quicksilver and MDD) were 25V.

Not a proper LCR, just a Chinese cheapo. No indication what frequency it's testing at.

Isopropyl alcohol is not a great solvent for the corrosion on these boards, and soaking it overnight would just be a waste of time. My method is to remove all the SMT electrolytic capacitors first, scrape any visible green corrosion from chip legs with a dental pick, then submerge the board in...

Love to see you're still having fun with this (even though I'm sure some of it has been Type II), all built upon the mighty Bombat platform 🙂