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For a load, I have the whole IIgs system with multiple cards installed. Tomorrow I’m going to give it a shot with the cards removed in case that produces a different result. And, the PSU did initially work multiple times without the drive in. I’ll test the drive power tomorrow on an external...

I posted some time ago about my Vulcan I’ve been fighting with. Posting again in hopes to find some more advice as I have made some progress. The problem before was a result of not paying attention to cap impedance values. I bought replacements that matched as closely as possible to the...

I am happy but I’ll admit, this was far from a complicated one. The bad trace was actually a bad solder pad so it was visually apparent it was bad. Confirmed of course beeping it out but not like I had to do the full legwork to beep everything out. Also this was not a severe battery bombed...

Well! I’m a bit of a dope. l read the guide, which is absolutely brilliant. One thing caught my eye, regarding “an unsupported memory module/bank configuration”. I figured, surely I was doing it correctly. Well, I was not. I had only inserted two sticks, and it needs four minimum. Lesson...

Yep, I’ve got them set aside in DigiKey should I go replacement. However, as much as I’ve been trying to avoid it I’m going to need to check the lines first before I start swapping parts.

Wow, that guide looks fantastic. I’ve got some upcoming travel, and this will be great to read through and do some learning. Appreciate the resources! Let’s see if I can get this one going.

Ok, the board soak did a little but not a heck of a lot. I’ll probably skip it next time. After cleaning, it was no longer doing death chimes. So, continuing on… Lifting the chips was actually quite easy. My first time and it went wonderfully. Good to finally put my hot air station to use...

Yup, definitely some lifted legs. I've captured some photos of the corrosion areas, and I'll capture the same areas after an evapo rust bath to see how well it works. I wasn't able to get much definitive "before and after" evidence of how well it works for this sort of task, so maybe this will...

Here's a close-up of UJ2 and UJ3, the two that appear to have the most corrosion from the battery leakage. Seeing the photo in full, I think I can see some legs that look lifted already. They're unfortunately slightly out of focus but I can take another to get a better look at em.

I am using the evapo rust on the frame. I bought too little to start and could only properly clean the floppy drive bracket but it did a wonderful job. I don’t think it’ll do anything negative. I’ll report back.

Got it. I’ll do my best! And, I suppose, worst comes to worst I can always swap out the chips. I’ve already checked and can get them from DigiKey so if I ruin a chip it’s not the end of the world.

Thanks! I’ll give that procedure a shot this weekend. I have already washed the board with warm water and soap with an IPA (not beer) rinse, scrubbing with a brush, etc. I was reading that evapo rust should be safe for the board in general so I’m going to give it an hour soak tonight and...

Thanks also for that advice! I will check those too, but I am less concerned with them given that there was minimal cap leakage there and the UJx and UIx chips are looking quite suspect.

Thanks! I’ll see about getting one of those. So, just scrape away until the solder starts to stick, reflow, then hot air and lift?

I’m back with another SE/30 repair. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to resurrect this one, as I failed and had some outside help to fix up the last one that had some nasty cap goo trace damage. This one’s a battery bombed unit, but it was fairly light. It seems it was luckily stored on its face or...

Wanted to get involved in this thread since I’ve had an interest in getting an MO drive swapped in place of the floppy drive on an SE/30. I’ve been toying with the idea off and on for several years now. I finally had a replacement bracket made up that has slots for the mounting screws so I...

Finally had an opportunity to get to recapping my Vulcan. C9 had failed and spilled its guts a little so after a visual inspection I opted not to even try powering it on unrestored until I had replaced the caps. After replacing, I popped it into my IIgs with the original hard drive installed...

Unless I’ve missed something, those schematics are the logical schematics. My original intention was to find the original, physical board schematics so I could find which traces are the ones run under capacitor C9 and check those first before diving in to the tedious work for checking...

I’ve also just fattened up the board with solder. Not nearly as scientifically as this, just eyeballing it and a couple tests, trying to keep it as thin as possible while being consistent. Probably a heck of a lot easier than swapping the socket, and if I ever want to set it back to stock I can.

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like I didn't read closely enough into the details on the SE/30 Reloaded board with is not a 1-to-1 redraw of the original tracing. Sure enough it's vastly different in the area I'm concerned with. So, for now I'm back to square one of exhaustively checking all...