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A wire back to the intact trace, then twisted into a little spiral shape where the pad should be is an option. Solder-soaked desoldering braid, if narrow enough, can also work.

Is the speaker good? Should be somewhere around 55 to 64 ohms (my working ones usually measure 58ohms).

Well, good news. I reset the spring and tried Bruce's method, but it made little difference either to the clamping force (which looked ok both ways), or to the results. Then I went back to the known good drive with the same disks and lo, same errors. I was just dealing with failing media...

Thanks, I'll give that a shot too. Just have to disassemble everything again, I got too excited. Sigh.

Spoke too soon. It reads some floppies some times, usually just as far as opening the disk and showing the files. IO errors when actually reading the files. Guess I'll look into spring making...

Win! Found the spring, figured out how to disassemble the head assembly (seek motor out, couple of extra screws, then the whole head assembly is free). There were three notches, and the spring was already in the optimal position for tension: So I carefully cut a fourth notch with a blade...

Ah, cool, I didn't notice a spring on either the working or not working drive back there. Will look closer tonight, thanks. Might be a reason to figure out how to make a new spring. :)

Hello all. I have a Superdrive in an SE/30 that's not reading or initialising disks. Two in fact, but I'm only looking at one at the moment. Fortunately I have a known good drive that does work with this machine, so the logic board is good. With this drive I've cleaned and lubricated it, but...

Nice one :)

Ya, reset goes to pin 7 on UA5 (sound chip) according to the BOMARC schematic. Buzz that out to see if you have continuity. If you do, see if you can see the Reset out of pin 6 when reset is pressed. If it does, the sound chip may be fine, if it doesn't, good chance it's just dead.

Yeah I'm in the same boat. I just finished off two SE/30 recaps, so 22 caps, with push/twist. Zero pad damage. Conversely, may years ago I decided my very first recapping attempt would be with hot air on an Amiga A600. How hard can it be right? Yeah, I still haven't gone back to fix the...

Check Adrian's Digital Basement videos, eg this one from about 6 minutes in. Actually he's way more...er...vigorous than I would be, but you can see the board takes it fine. I respect Bruce's work immensely, but I've never been able to replicate it with my equipment. Plus I think there's...

Don't get me wrong, hot air stations are great, but exercise extreme caution using them. Very easy to melt something you didn't mean to, very easy to overheat the old caps and have them pop in your face and very easy to overheat the board and lift a pad. I've tried most methods, and I've done...

Thanks, always nice to get another one back. Maybe this thread will help someone else one day, although this seems to be a pretty unique failure mode even though it had a pretty common solution.

It lives....again! Turns out the fault was with the C13 cap, near the flyback. Completely dried out/not capacitoring. It's meant to be part of a circuit that boosts the 12v from the PSU to 20v for pins 1-4 on the flyback, but the actual voltage was 32v, throwing out all the other outputs...

Update for the interested. I pulled the AB out and removed the protective sheet, to reveal this: That's a short and almost full thickness burn between one leg of the sub brightness control pot and the 30v rail that goes to the neck board. Cleaning out the burnt material has dropped the high...

Narrator: it wasn't Q1. Started another thread :)

Hello all, I have an SE/30 that's a bit sad right now. First the good. Logic board boots (in another machine), 5v, 12v disk and sweep rails are OK. Nothing has been recapped yet, but the core stuff seems stable enough to at least get a bong (well, logic board isn't bonging, but I'll deal...

Nice one @obsolete I've just landed another odd one, an SE/30 where the R1 resistor on the neckboard (big 3w 1kOhm guy) gets super hot when powered on. Symptoms of this one are a very dim image, messed up possibly with retrace lines (I don't run it long enough to really get a good look)...

And winner winner chicken dinner, it was the 2n3904 transistor on the neckboard. Now have a nice usable image (please ignore the tilt). Thanks so much for the tip, zigzagjoe