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A sad update :-( First I wanted to say thank you so much to everyone who has tried to help me.  However, I must regretfully report that this is not going to be a salvageable Macintosh after all.  The corrosion to the analog board was far more severe than I had originally thought.  Several...

Thank you both for this.  I'm going to go over the entire board now and see if I can't get this thing to finally work!

The part number for the board is 630-0395.  I Tried using the 630-0525 (220v international) as a reference since that's the most commonly documented, but it didn't work.  This isn't the first time I've run into an issue like this, where all the documentation for an American computer is for the...

I'm attempting to recap my Mac Classic's analog board and seem to have lost track of what goes where.  I'm not recapping the whole board just yet, only the ones that were obviously bulging or leaking for the moment as they're the ones that were the most obvious and problematic.  I've managed to...

Thanks.  I think I can bridge that between the resisters.  If I had to lose a pad, at least it was that one. Yeah, I noticed that too.  I've been scrubbing this thing under a magnifying glass with alcohol and q-tips for a while now.  It looks a lot better, but it's clear that the caps leaked...

Thanks for this.  I've been Googling images and every picture I've found shows those resisters populated, but I was never able to clearly see their markings.  Now at least I know what to get.  My guess is that they are necessary and may have fallen off from corrosion, or they weren't as secure...

So I'm trying to recap my LCIII motherboard.  I managed to remove all of the old capacitors, clean all the pads (all of which survived) but I just noticed that the resisters at R1 and R2 are missing, and one of the pads at R1 seems to have fallen off.  The pads on R2 are still there and I...

I've been working on an Apple //e mother board for a while with no luck.  It worked when I got it, and all the ICs are socketed.  So I tried to use it to diagnose another malfunctioning board.  Unfortunately it didn't work, and when I reseated all the original ICs it stopped working all together...

Short answer, No.  I tried this with an ESC key and found that not only the key itself was too tall for the //c board, but the orientation of the switch was vertical on that particular key as opposed to horizontal on the //c.  I'm not sure if that holds true for the option key, but in either...

So I have two Apple 3.5 inch Unidisk drives. One works fine, but the eject motor doesn't push the disc out all the way, but I can live with that. The other won't work at all. When I connect it to my //e and insert a boot disc, the light flashes, then nothing. I've tracked the issue to the analog...

So I take it that my power supply is the current issue, and needs to be recapped ASAP.  But I shouldn't wait too long on the motherboard since that's going to be a problem sooner or later, and it would be better to deal with it before it does.

It chimes after 10 to 20 minutes.  I figured that I would have to recap something, but my equipment is limited, and I've never dealt with surface mount capacitors before.  I haven't seen any sign of damage to the motherboard, but I know that the electrolytics used have a tendency to leak...

So I have a Macintosh LC III (in an LC II case) that takes about 10 to 20 minutes to power up and boot.  Once it does, it seems to work fine, but if it goes more than a few hours without a power on, it just sits there spinning its fan for an increasingly extended period with nothing on the...

To be clear, is it your monitor that won't power, or your //c?

I just searched Amazon for "150k ohm potentiometer" and found more than a few at that value.  Don't Know if they will work, but it might be worth a look? To answer your original question on if these can be repaired, the answer is usually yes.  However, you'll have to take them completely apart...

Another suggestion would be to check your belts, as well as any area where the drive is supposed to physically move for signs of damage.  It also doesn't hurt to move these components around a little manually to make sure they're moving the way they're supposed to.  You said the drive worked...

I'd take it apart and check for a bad capacitor or exploded component.  While I've never had the need to take my 5.25 in Uni apart, I have successfully repaired several Disk II drives over the past few months.  If Gorgonops is correct, then there should be two boards in the drive, the first is...

After reading your post again, I would suggest connecting the drive to your //c.  Try booting from a DOS Master and cataloging a disk in the external drive to see if it reads.  If not then try cleaning the drive head, and see if that makes a difference. The other thing I'll ask is, are your...

Just looked it up, and you're right.  Kinda weird, since I've been reversing it on my IIgs for years without a problem.  Then again, I don't have that many 3.5 in disks and even fewer that are IIgs specific, so maybe that's why I haven't run into a problem yet.

I think the daisy chain on the IIgs requires the 5.25 to be connected first, then the 3.5 after that.