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When it comes to retrobriting - I've actually just set my stuff outside for a day or two and it reverses the yellowing significantly, no peroxide required. I agree with the other posts saying to give it a good scrub down, though, since it really does make it look a lot nicer (and maybe good...

Yup, capacitor leakage. Like people have said, you're gonna have to go ahead and recap both the Analog board and the Logic board. Fortunately, the caps on the logic board didn't actually take the pads off, as far as I can see, they instead left their legs on the board. It shouldn't be too hard...

Just wanna say real quick - I was looking at Mac Effect's site, and it seems like they have the reloaded board in stock again...

Yeah, for my analog board the short was happening through the speaker body (drenched in electrolytic fluid) going from the 12v rail to ground.

Everything works, btw. SCSI, memory expansion, ADB, etc. Now I just have to wait for the keyboard I ordered to arrive...

After running through your suggestions, I found that this leg on UK4 was not actually making a connection to the board, despite looking like it was. After resoldering it: And plugging it in: IT FUCKING WORKS! Chimed, booted normally. I'm gonna test the ram expansion I have for it and see if...

How many caps did you replace? I recently did a couple classic analog boards, and I only replaced the caps indicated on recap-a-mac (as well as the two large ones near the flyback), and didn't have any issues. No diodes replaced, either. I suspect that the orange caps might be low ESR, so if you...

After some more fiddling, I discovered I can make the classic display a sad Mac if i hit the reset button: Searching here on the forums, I found that it is a "data bus error": but I don't really know what this means. Could it be a bad connection with the ram chips? I haven't put in a memory...

After careful inspection, fixing a couple of unconnected traces, and separating a short, I hadn't made all that much progress. Today, however, I made a bit of a breakthrough: While I knew that R2 on the underside of the board wasn't populated, I hadn't realized that R6 and R8 were ALSO...

All right. I did the repair, and this is what happened. When I try to turn the Mac on, one of three things happens: 1. Nothing. Fan spins and CRT turns on but nothing else. 2. The screen alternates between two bars and three bars: 3. Garbage displayed on screen similar to two bars image...

I bought the very last one Mac Effects had, sorry to say. You'd probably have to hit up a PCB fab company if you want one yourself, because I haven't seen it for sale anywhere else.

Ok, I've got one last effort I can make to save this thing. I have a reloaded board. I have the parts. We can rebuild him. We have the technology.

0000 000F 0000 000A Basically an unknown error given the context.

Glad to hear the progress! I've done just about everything I can think of for my classic at this point, and can't shake the Sad Mac.

Did you end up replacing the CRT connector? That sideways shuddering - though not as extreme - was exactly what my Mac Plus was doing before I replaced it.

One of the cables I bought was specifically advertised as a null modem cable.

I've been trying to get my Macintosh plus to work with the "Simple Wifi modem" (https://www.tindie.com/products/8bit_bruno/simple-wifi-rs232-modem-v2/) for a few days now, and it seems like no matter what, I cannot get anything from it to the Macintosh or vice-versa. There doesn't seem to be any...

Haha, that pic of all those resistors together is gold.

Nothing on the other ports. For curiosity's sake, I soldered a wire straight from the pad next to the pin on the VIA chip. Same stripes, same radio silence from the Mac.

works when my Mac Plus talks to it on Zterm. See the electrical diagram posted somewhere on page 2 of this thread. I did confirm continuity between the pin and the burn-in connector.