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So do you still intend to do the Takky mod as originally planned?

Looks like you lost your vertical deflection. This could be an easy fix, or might require some troubleshooting of the analog board. The first thing I would check is the solder joints on the back of neck board, especially the ones that connect to the CRT pins. I would also check the neck...

This is just a theory, but it’s probably the popularity of the original SE that made the SE/30 so desirable. The Macintosh II family was most likely out of reach for most people price-wise, but a LOT of people had the SE, and those machines did start feeling a bit limited eventually. Then the...

Yeah, it is totally possible that they were Classic IIs. This was a long time ago and I don’t remember the exact years this all happened (could have been that 1 year difference). Nor did I pay attention to the exact model. I do remember the exact look of the computers, and obviously the...

I am not sure, schools in the US were weird back then. I believe Apple was providing massive discounts to US schools. Perhaps just the floppy drive upgrade was worth it. Remember, all the students were saving their work on floppies and carrying them around, so being able to use 1.4MB floppies...

Sounds like you entered the scene a bit later. At the time the SE/30 was released, black and white graphics on a 9 inch monitor were the norm. Sure, you could play color games on the Amiga etc, but if you wanted the most modern OS, word processors, integrated peripherals, printing, etc, the...

I find it odd that someone on a vintage computer board would call an ancient computer a “realistically, a silly meme machine” and declare a much later model superior based on its “practicality”??

SE/30 is a much more iconic machine (possibly the most iconic of the generation) It’s the machine most Mac enthusiasts either had or wish they had during late 80s/early 90s. IIsi is none of those things.

Oh, btw, I have the same exact battery mod. I was able to make mine fit by bending the leads sideways a bit. Maybe my holders were a bit narrower. They sit nice and tight against the board.

Great job and thanks for providing a thoroughly enjoyable write-up! I’m sure this will help others who are faced with similar issues. Very well done. Imho the original Mac II line are gorgeous machines and definitely worth the restore effort. It’s among my top three in terms of...

Hmm I thought the BroadATX is specifically for Mac II/x/fx

If the cutoff adjustment had no effect, I would suspect some component on the analog board, like cutoff pot, or maybe some resistor etc. Edit: I didn’t realize the pot has been mentioned multiple times here. Reading is hard.

I had similar issues on one of my builds and it was due to the neck board solder joints coming loose (the part that is attached to the neck). I would inspect/reflow those as well as the connector on the analog board.

Yeah I’m also interested in the BroadATX. What’s the ETA on that?

Yep, I exclusively use caddy drives (for nostalgia purposes LOL). The caddy drives shouldn't have lens issues because they have a brush inside that actually cleans the lens every time you insert a caddy. Pretty smart design.

Most of the early Sony drives are very solidly built but they almost universally fail due to leaky electrolytic caps. I replaced caps on a few failed drives and every time it fixed all the issues. I attached some photos for you. The last 2 pictures are of a recapped board (it’s the 300 board...

Hmm i just checked and 575s are indeed pretty crazy on eBay. Although, I thought I saw some full mystic builds on Buyee recently for pretty cheap, maybe $300 ish range? Another option might be to find a TransWarp 4300 card. I don’t know what kind of magic they use, but the TransWarp cards...

I will post my method as soon as I get a chance to do the write-up. In terms of the original color, the “platinum” gear like the mouse you have should appear light grey in normal daylight (e.g., light through your windows).

I’ve had similar issues in the past when using the “standard” peroxide/UV combination, resulting in weird bright spots and streaks, brittle plastic, and in some cases, severe over-bleaching (plastic actually ending up much lighter color than the original). Unfortunately, in my experience, there...

I too ended up just replacing the chip (actually twice because I messed up the first flash). I just used my Mac to flash it using the flash utility. I used this rom. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/winbond-electronics/W25X20CLSNIG/3008613