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I call the technique "light-blasting" (Copyright! ;)) Like sand-blasting but with high energy photons My theory on why this works so well is that high-powered lighting can literally blast away the surface impurities, leaving you with pristine original plastic. But you need very high energy...

Interesting find. I don’t know how practical this would be, but it might work for some. I use high-powered reef lighting and all of my Mac’s in my collection are pristine brand new coloration. Works 100% of the time, even on the darkest yellowed cases.

Yeah, I was afraid of that. Although I was still hoping that someone found a way... I use 7.1.(1/2/Pro) pretty much exclusively on my 68k Macs and I was hoping that the 190cs could be a convenient portable contemporary with a fast CPU to boot. But if it has to run a different (and, IMHO...

I was referring to any variant of 7.1 (including 7.1.2 etc). But yeah, looks like Performa 630, 640, and PB190 are the only ones without either native 7.1 support or a system enabler. I guess Apple just didn’t bother for these three models. Weird. I assume the way it works is that the System...

I just completed a full restore of a PB190cs, only to realize that, apparently, it's the ONLY(?) 68k machine that doesn't support system 7.1. Or is there a way to make it work? I checked the System Enabler docs but I don't see a supported version.

So unfortunately I only have a 5500 chassis which makes it prohibitive for testing voltages etc. The plastics are fragile, so I’m not willing to take it apart. I’ll look through my bins to see if I have an extra Gazelle harness. Edit: Or maybe I can just apply the proper voltages to the power...

This would be terrific if possible, especially for the 5500! I have a couple spare 5500/6500 boards and I believe I have a junk beige G3 board laying around somewhere. Willing to blindly swap ICs if that helps. :)

I would just repair it, especially since you already recapped it. The ground plane looks intact but I would scrape around to make sure. I would scrape those blackened traces too. Then just wrap some wire around that disconnected pin, add some solder, and connect it to the trace. Then reapply...

That keyboard has a “win(dows)” button. Sacrilege!

Have you tried using a different PSU? The Artmix VRM should be able to handle this. Heck, even the stock PSU should probably work (until it fries and takes half the cube with it). But the symptoms you describe definitely hint at a power delivery issue.

Thanks. I guess the 180 is a true lottery since most sellers are not willing to let it sit for an hour or two to let you know if it's tunneling. I'll definitely watch for it worsening. This looks to be true. I let it run for almost 3 hours, and it never got any worse than what you saw in...

So I received my PB 180 and I was prepared to bake it but the tunnel vision on it is very minimal I think. At least compared to some of the pictures I’ve seen. After an hour, there’s a slight edge forming at the bottom left of the screen. But other than that, the screen looks perfect. If it...

I wonder if baking seals the edges initially (due to the metal bracket etc), trapping the remaining moisture, then later they come apart and allow some of the trapped stuff to escape out while it's diffusing between the layers. Hence the improvement over time. If that's the case, repeated bakes...

Just doing some research... I did notice that almost in all pics I've seen where there's been improvement, the outermost edges are nearly perfect, while the areas inside the edges show only incremental improvement. Given that the going theory has to do with layer adhesion and trapped moisture...

Hey, is there a potential risk/benefit to running it more than 5 hours? Or is that just an arbitrary number that seems to produce good results? Could I run it longer at the same temp without risk to the panel? I just bought a 180 and just planning my approach while waiting for it to ship.

I feel the same way. I have three (and a half) SE/30s and I can’t bring myself to modify any one of them with modern components. It wouldn’t feel the same.

Congrats. You can never have enough SE/30s.

By the way, from my recollection, IIfx will not give you a sad chime if the RAM is missing or “undetected” but it generally chimes for bad RAM. It sometimes takes a very long time, like up to a minute after happy chime.

I experienced the same thing with my 16MB “Doug Brown SIMMs”. I added solder to the pads, same as you did, and now they snap in nice and tight and work flawlessly. The key is to tin them all to the same thickness which is more tricky than it might seem. I use Kapton tape on the back side to...

That should be fine for the most part. There are some boards that are designed to make electrical contact with the RF shield, in which case you should just make sure those contact points are not coated with non-conductive material. Edit: To clarify further, I’m referring to boards like the...