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I would check the degaussing coil and make sure it’s properly connected to the analog board, and that the 4 corner screws are securing it snug to the edges.

Thanks a lot, @Phipli. I will try your suggestions and report back. I did already try the #3 dip switch to ON, per your suggestion, and it didn't help. I also tried last night (before your replies) checking the VRAM by using 2 sticks at a time (I have 4 total) - that should rule out having a...

It’s a PowerMac 8500, sorry. There are four dip switches on the board, so you might be onto something. I couldn’t find a manual to find out what they do. Or maybe the bus speed is controlled via software?

Hey folks, I recently grabbed a MAXPower G3 500Mhz card for my MP 8500 to replace my 400Mhz Sonnet (cuz why not? :)). The issue I'm facing is that when I drag windows around etc, they leave little outlines and dots around. The menu bars also have some color distortion that gets worse any time...

No worries, I wasn’t calling you out, I’m just happy we have access to it now. Thank you!

Nice, I don’t think 2.2 is available anywhere else - at least not that I could find.

My Novy card (I believe the Gemini is the same card rebranded) doesn’t have any POST animation or graphic. P.S. That’s totally unexpected that Gemstart 3.0 works under System 6 (and a very early accelerator) while 2.1 doesn’t.

That control panel looks like a rebranded Gemstart, so it’s surprising it doesn’t work. Can you try with different RAM? I’ve had random bus errors and other weird issues with SE accelerators that had “seemingly good” RAM but the accelerator didn’t like.

Ok that makes sense. I just didn't know different plants were free to use different types of solder mask coating. I guess it wouldn't matter in terms of functionality. Thanks.

Does anybody know why Apple used different solder mask coating variations for the same boards? I've seen that on multiple boards. For example, I have 2 identical LC II boards, one is glossy "bright green", the other is matte "muted yellowish green". I saw the same with other boards such as PM...

Falcon 4 and FA/18 series were the best imho. But I’m biased since I’m a flight-simmer to this day. Falcon 4 was way ahead of its time.

Yeah, if I remember correctly it’s like a $15 service, but imho it’s totally worth it given the fragility of some of these items.

Weren’t those the Bose Roommate speakers? Those are the only ones I know of.

I’ve never actually bought on FromJapan but I thought they were basically the same thing. I paid similar prices on Buyee ($140-240) for large items to be shipped to the US. They seem reasonable and actually not that much higher than some eBay sellers charge to ship across state lines...

Personally I have had pretty good success with adjusting the little magnets on two of my compacts. They both had the same problem - top and bottom not being parallel, forming an ugly sideways trapezoid. I did have one that I couldn’t fix no matter what I did so I just bought another yoke. All...

With these bezels, a dab of hot glue on the inside (where the broken hooks would be) does the trick really well. The eject button on the cd bezels also has a tendency to break off. Those are easily reattached with some acetone-based glue (I use Tamiya Ultra Thin). It actually welds the pieces...

I definitely wouldn’t go down in voltage spec on that cap. That could lead to problems. Looks to me like the board had the voltage mod done but then it was reversed by bridging the pins (in your last picture). I have no idea what the jumper is for between pins 18 and 20. That doesn’t seem...

Ahh that's interesting. My results were very similar to your screenshots. So it stands to reason that Macbench will produce similarly low scores in my case as well. I might try it anyway out of curiosity (although swapping cards and extensions is a bit of a pain hehe). So I heard (somewhere)...

I don’t have the IIci but I remember my results being much better (actually higher than the IIfx) when I had the Powercache in the OG Mac II. But I didn’t run Macbench, only Speedometer and Norton. When I have time, I might pull the Turbo out and put the Powercache back in and do some tests...

A recap and a thorough clean would be my first step. Some of those caps and the surrounding areas look pretty bad. While recapping, I would look for any trace damage.