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Personally, I would avoid the Chinese brands and go for anything made elsewhere (i.e. Japan) For switch-mode power supplies you probably want low-ESR caps. You should see if the old caps are low-ESR.

So you're saying you removed all the electrolytic caps from a logic board, and you expect it to work without them? You have to solder new caps, either polymer or tantalum. Who needs a recapping guide? roll your own! Crack that baby open, count all the caps, and order replacements off DigiKey or...

https://github.com/ewancg/CSE2EX

You should try running XENIX on it

Why don't you just sell SCSI hard drives loaded with these el1te macc warez? No need to be worried about getting removed from Internet Archive or limewire

Goodwill is good again

What's the guy running off and where can I buy some

I recapped a second display with tantalum caps taken back from the first. It's not an improvement. (this display somehow has a chip in its glass, on the southwest corner) I tested this display in two 160s with the same result. Please, let me know if you have a tested, working passive matrix...

Do you know who else is from Brampton? Limp Pumpo...

I was breaking cold sweats the entire time 'MLA was down... It's an Addiction

Now run NetBSD with Window Maker

I have my next display panel... What's the best way to desolder the tantalum caps from the first panel so they can be soldered to the new panel

I tried reseating the display cable from both ends with no effect. If there's a tear it's not in any portion I can see, I'd have to pull the entire thing out

I have the panel stripped apart on the bench right now, the top half of the picture is coming in and out intermittently. Often it'll start out dark, flicker back to normal, then flicker to dark again. You don't know how upset I am