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Ah, thanks. So yeah, what I hear is only the chime of death, which I also hear when there is no RAM. This seems to exonerate the RAM from being the cause of my problem. That's progress. Thanks again @jmacz

Thanks. Yeah mostly lint and dust. Looks like the PCB varnish on the underside suffered from chicken pox though (see high res photo). I also notice that a couple of vias are empty of tin solder (see pic below). I wouldn't expect that it could be a problem since the sides of the through hole...

Oh great, thanks. Chimes of death (COD) are different for different products. If you see here, the COD for the IIcx sounds like a regular chime, followed by the death chime. I would assume it's the same for the IIci. Is this what you hear ?

The battery had not exploded, and the area is super clean (below)

Wow, great eyes. I was really hoping that WAS the problem, but upon closer look, the two pins were not touching. And after straightening them, the problem is still there. Below is the pic of the underside

Thanks. Will look into this. My understanding was that the area around C10 controlled the soft power on/off. Does it also control the boot-up sequence ? Also, does anyone know whether the chime of death always happens when no RAM is present

So I tried again swapping the RAM SIMMS, inspecting traces, contacts etc.. I reflowed all the new Ta caps, and I still get the same result. I attach new high res pics of the bad cap areas. I actually looks as clean as I have ever seen on a vintage Mac board.

Thanks. When I replaced the caps, I did that, but of course I might have missed something. I might bite the bullet, remove them and replace again

By the way, what's the purpose of the edge connector J24 (burnin) ? Wouldn't this allow for some kind of diagnostic, using a scope perhaps ?

Yes, thanks. My understanding is that Bank A must be populated first. I thought I tried both sets of 4 in Bank A, with no success. I also tried other sets I had in my spare parts, but let me look into this more. Please keep these advices coming :)

Thanks @Phipli !

OK so I used a lot of IPA, elbow grease, and a slew of brushes. I even used a scalpel to gently remove the crud from between the pins of some of the ICs, to no avail: I still get the chime of death By the way, can we decide once and for all that the IIci would or would not boot with no PRAM...

Thanks. No I did not reflow, but I did notice of lot of these "bridges" (see pic below). Looks like some sort of white residue which could create some RF coupling, I agree. I tried to get rid of them all with the scrub, but I obviously missed some spot. Let me try that

A full wash cycle in my dishwasher, followed by light muriatic acid/toothbrush scrub, and hair dryer blow. I must say that the sound was unstable (kept coming off/on when poking around that area) after dishwasher wash, but the issue stopped after the toothbrush scrub. The trace that goes under...

I have a Mac IIci which I recently bought off CL in San Jose. At first, it only powered up if I kept on pushing the power button, and even with that it only showed the power on green light, with no other sign of life. I recapped all electrolytic SMD capacitors on the LB, and I now have good...

Sorry Greniu for the (very) late reply. Please follow the procedure below from the lisafaq website Parity Error 71 You may have noticed something missing... there are 18 columns of chips, not 16. The extra 2 are for parity bits, one for each byte. If there was a parity error, then all the...

Do you have a spare HDD ? It should drain enough power to get the AB going

Thanks @sunder ! Great info. And yes, I had noticed that some tools were not serialized, but did not record which ones. I need to research this quite a bit more. I was pretty sure I couldn't load LOS when I first tried, and that's when I learned about this serializing thing. I remember going...

Earlier, I had bought some expensive UV-C LEDs and rigged up a similar cooler, with 6 LED's at the top. Tried overnight, with absolutely zero effect. So I'm 90% sure that UV has nothing to do with it. It's all heat and H2O2. I also never found that oxi-clean did anything either.

I once saw a youtube video showing that heat is actually more efficient that UV in retr0briting. So my rig is just a large cooler with a 75W incandescent light bulb placed inside. This tends to keep the temperature in a 50-60C range. I use hydrogen peroxide (12%) with wallpaper glue as a...