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have you tried GENTLY giving the mac a few nudges - as in hit it gently on the side to see if the display jumps - that would show dry connections- i have used a bit of wood to 'tap ' on the analog board of a mac , with the cover off and the mac running - - i have found similar problems on logic...

ordered up the caps

Thanks MG.Man - ill give it a shot .......

has anyone else done this - 110 to 240 I have looked at some of my other machines that have the same analog board that were shipped as 240 volt machines and they have the same capacitors as the 110 volt version i dont get it

wow - i was gonna plug it in !!!! So I have to change out some other caps as well ??? dang !! i would prob have blown the crap out of it - i definately dont have those caps - will have to order them is that what you did mg man? did you swap out caps as well as changing the jumpers ? man ...

This is what Ive done Am I good to plug 240volts into this people ?

I just removed CP 13 to see if there is anything written under there - and there is - I have to jump JP2 as well so remove jp1 , remove top capacitor ( cp13) and jump JP2 ?

Just a quick question folks. I have a 110 volt Performa 200. I have recapped the logic board and all is fine. analog is 110 volt and Im about to change it to 240 volt , for here in Ireland. As far as I know its just a case of removing the jumper JP1 off the analog board. Thats it down there...

did you try reseating all the chips that are in chip holders ? that video rom chip looks off - looks like its twisted - take them out carefully , check the pins and put them back carefully did you go over the board with a tooth brush and clean it ? - i can see dirt all over it still. You need...

I dont care what the build specs says , if im taking out the analog or screen on ANY 68K mac I ground the anode Ive heard the same , post plus machine's are 'supposed' to have bleed resistors , and to back that up the only machines I ever heard the spark from were 128's and 512's. Although...

Still working on the same SE. Besides the brightness being way too high there is another very annoying problem. The 40mb drive makes a horrible metalic screeching noise - sounds like ecto-1 from ghost busters !!!! The drives works great even pass's apple diagnostics Is there any way to fix...

checked the board on the back of the tube - no dry solder joints No idea whats going on with this The brightness control on the front panel works , but the one on the analog board has no effect. Those 2 are the only adjustments for brightness ? - there are no adjustments on the tube itself ?

have the pot out - seems to be fine - i have no electronics training but with the multi meter on 200m im getting a reading of 3 .... is that a 3 mega ohm pot ? .... when adjusting it reads .9 to 3( guess its output is between 1 and 3 mohm ) ........ pot is fine....... checked traces to next...

they are a bit off all right but i didnt think they would lead to a very bright screen -11.56 +12.21 +4.92 +5.05 Stripping it again - im gonna take out the brightness pot and see if the dam thing is broken

Hi folks. Working on an old SE. Got the machine working but the display is sooooo bright. Tried turning down the brightness with the knob under the front panel. At lowest setting the display is still too bright. So opened it and tried adjusting down the brightness on the analog board. This had...

you should clean the entire board , both sides. I have done many of these machines and my usual procedure is A sink of warm water , toothbrush and washing up liquid. I place the whole board in the water and clean every part of it with the washing up liquid and a tooth brush ..GENTLY going...

Thanks zigzag - Ill have a look on the trading post

Where did you get that purple se/30 board ? - are they for sale anywhere ? - i have 3 se/30's with battery damage

I have had this same problem many times and each time it was a broken trace. pad coming for UD8 , UE8...... metered them out , found the break , jumped it and it worked