Search results

tried Falcon and got it running on my classic 2 - great game although i have to keep going to the manual all the time to see the key commands didnt know vette would run on B/W machines - i played that on my qudra back in the day as well - will have a go at this one as well come on folks -...

SubBattle was 3D ish ( sprites being scaled up and down ) but the graphics were very very basic. That Macintalk voice , the digitized sounds - truly loved this game , even thought it could crash at any time - Does f/a18 run on a 68k Mac - I should of said that above , was looking for title...

Would like to hear of any 3D simulators people like to play on their Macs. I was playing SubBattle Simulator on an SE back in the early 90's way before the PC was a thing. This got me into all kinds of simulators. So just wondering what simulators people used to like and hoping there might be...

I use beed tants because they are so much easier to solder on - I never liked those flat , rectangular tantalums because you cannot see the connection underneath. If it was me i would take off all the tants again and clean up all the pads with some soldering brade - get rid of all the old...

i hear ya xeiter mac wont go out the window ......... not until i find and fix this problem !!!! haha like you i just put it away for a while , calm down and try again. I have a vintage Casio 1000 synth here for over a year - power supply board problems ( low voltages) ive taken that thing...

i only changed caps - dont have a scope - wouldnt know how to use it if i did but i do have a doner board so will change DP3 and DP4 (1N4148), TDA4605, CNY17G, IRFBC40 1 by 1 and see if it makes any difference just need to take a week time out otherwise the machine will become a UFO from my...

reflowed all the usual culprits when i first recapped it - washed the board in acetone - cleaned both sides over and over looking for anything there is nothing visibly wrong have now reflowed prbably half the board ....... no change i thought i was lucky earlier but im in the same boat as...

The machine is allot better When i powered it up after changing the 470us 50 volt is was perfect Now it starts everytime , beep , boot , no 'wavy' screen but i am getting jittering on the screen all the time that wont go away plus it just resets a random times all the voltages are good and...

dont believe this i put the machine all back together and got ready to play loom for the night , connected keyboard / mouse and hit the power the dam problem is back sickened to say the least

Happy to report I finally got my machine working 100% Turns out it was the 470uf 50 volt that i didnt replace when i did the recap ( didn thave one ) a few arrived today and i changed it - hit the power switch and weh hey , beeeeeep .......... so my recap was off this picture - i only...

Just goes to show the greed......... they made the machines with cheaper and cheaper parts ,,,,,,, look at apple today - they were proven to be sending commands to peoples devices to slow them down to make them buy new ones,,,,,,,,,, i used to love apple back in the day but what they are today...

Has Techknight gone on holiday , or retired ?? - hes the man that would figure this out in no time I went back at my machine - i swapped the 1uf 50v cap in mine with a tant when i recapped the machine as i didnt have a radial - i found one today so put that in .......... machine is better ...

Thanks for that dochilli ......... that thread is covering the exact problem i have - lots of parts to replace and see if i can fix it cheers

Just to chime in ......... I have exact same problem ........same low 5 volt at power up , slowly climbing to 5 volt then booting I recapped the board ( well , the caps recommended to replace anyway ) I have the same ( but not as bad) area of protective layer been eaten by leaking...

Another stupid problem. Just recapped the analog board out of my classic When i first powered it up I got a wavy chess board display after a minute or 2 I noticed the 'wavy' display was not as wavy waited a bit more and it started to chime it eventually boooted up perfectly I plugged it...

you dont need a schematic you know what keys dont work you see where they are in the membrane you see the 2 contacts for the switch put your continutity test from the start of the ribbon cable to the black contacts of the actual switch - the black contact surface will give you goos contact...

I have fixed these membranes using stuff called 'bare conductive electric paint' its just a small tube of black gooey stuff you find the break in the trace on the membrane , put down some masking tape either side of the trace , and basically paint a tiny amount of the stuff over where you...

thanks for that crioss - i guess i can put the roms in my programmer and see if theres anything left in them and with that link you gave i now know the kind of chips ill have to order if i fried the roms ....... cheers man

cheers croissantking - this machine , I have been at it for some time - recapped it 2 years ago - stupidly hit off 2 of the caps doing something else , tore off some pads - put it back in attic for a while to calm down - took it down last week , fiked the broken pad damage and decided to convert...

while waiting on the parts i found a dead classic in the attic and took the parts from that machines analog board - happy to say the conversion to 240 volt is a success I had to adjust the little trim pot in the center of the analog to get the volts up a bit - they are now at 4.9 and 12.3...