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Sounds like a really nice machine, but given that it isn't recapped I'd probably say closer to $150-$200. The SE/30 is almost infamous for cap issues.

10uF is way too high for an oscillator circuit like this, try a 33pF cap.

Come to think of it, I have a 604 card and some of the SMD electrolytics right next to/under the heatsink seem to be bulged on top. The card still works, though.

Also, make sure the processor card has clean contacts and is fully seated in the slot (it takes a lot of force to put in all the way and this got me on my 8500). 8100/8200s don't have processor cards and AFAIK the later 8600/9600 ones aren't compatible.

Weird... just guessing, maybe the battery leak damaged the ROM sockets and reseating the chips broke another one of the connections?

Just wanted to ask before ordering new caps: is there any reason to recap these PSUs rather than replace them with modern ATX ones? Are the original PSUs reliable once recapped, or are they still failure-prone?

Decided to open the PSU anyways (it had been sitting, unplugged, for several hours) and yes, there are no less than 5 Rifas in this thing. Unsurprisingly, one of them had exploded, being the cause of the pop/smoke.

Do the Astec PSUs found in IIcx/ci/vx/Q700s have one of those notorious Rifa safety capacitors in them? I left one of these plugged in for about 10 minutes before there was a *POP* noise, followed by a loud whine and smoke rising from the machine. I assume these contain one of these caps but I'm...

You don't need to tear it down further; in fact all you really need to do for lubrication is remove the top "disk sled" along with the other sled on the bottom. Just don't try disassembling the head/stepper motor assembly because you'll probably mess up the alignment.

If the price is right for you given they're water damaged, I'd say go for one of the IIx's. They may not be particularly fast, especially compared to the later II-series machines, but IMO they're still pretty fun to mess with (6 NuBus slots!) and restoring one may be a fun project. $30 to...

AFAIK the glass ones aren't made anymore, but luckily normal ceramics are still made with roughly the same dimensions. I use a chart like this one: http://www.synthrotek.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Capacitor-Codes.pdf

LaPorta/BadGoldEagle/bibilit's posts are correct, the little glass things are just ceramic capacitors in a glass case. It was somewhat common for computers to use them around this time period; I know my SE has them too, along with a couple of earlier 8-bit machines. 104 = 0.1uF, Z = +80/-20%...

Some observations: Board 2 has some pretty bad cap damage, most notably around the 8530 chip and Serial PIC. There also looks to be some slight battery leakage right around the RAM chip between the two battery holders. Not entirely sure about this one, but it sort of looks like the two...

You're on the right track so far, just make sure you dry the board really well after washing (blow any water off with compressed air and let it sit for a couple of days). ISTR that the screen you're getting usually indicates bad traces to the ROM.

The ROMs are a likely culprit, but I'd find a way to cool them back down after they warm up just to make certain it's them.

One of the chips on the logic board could just as easily exhibit problems before warming up. The problematic component in question doesn't even necessarily need to be part of the video circuitry; also, as the OP states above, all the voltages, of which none are regulated by the SE logic board...

Ouch, sorry to hear about the Maxell going off.  :O Regarding feelings on repair: For me it really just depends on how much time I'm willing to put into a machine vs. how much enjoyment I think I can from it. Personally, I love the Compacts and think that any chance to work on one is a treat...

Personally I'd just use a soft brush to clean the dust off the high-voltage parts (I don't feel too comfortable getting water, etc. near them). Really look forward to seeing your progress on this Mac; your previous restoration threads have been really cool to watch!

"X2" basically is the voltage rating, so you can just look up "x2 capacitor," choose "Safety Capacitors," and then pick the options "Radial" and "Safety Film Capacitors." Pick a part with the same capacitance (measured in F, farads) as the damaged one (should be written somewhere on the cap)...

You can probably remove the filter cap for testing, but definitely plan on replacing it. Replacements for these can be found on mouser.com or other electronics distributors. One thing to keep in mind: there are two different kinds of line filter caps in Compact Macs: X2 and Y2, and you need to...