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A Duo battery tray would be a good new project, complete with new sliding cover - in my experience, the plastic on the original sliding cover is really brittle these days.

Great! Looking forward to hearing someone else's experience with the tray.

-double post-

I believe that something around 50-60°C is a safe bet.

I've put up some stl files for the tray - since there's already a thread for 3D printed objects under Hacks & Development, I put them there. If anyone makes a print, let me know how it turns out!

Here are .stl files for the tray. This is a little different than the one i printed off; it's got a lid with through-holes to secure the lid to the tray with screws & nuts. I haven't run this modified one off yet myself; still using the prototype tray. This is made to use brass strips to...

Since I only use 5 cells in a 6-cell tray, I bridge the gap between terminals in the empty cell location using a thermal fuse, which rests on top of the adjacent cells. I'm hoping to get around soon to the tweaks I mentioned.

Did you have any success in fixing the monitor?

There's a list of the caps I replaced in mine, in this thread.

I did a battery tray for 1X0-series PowerBook. I don't have a printer, but the local library does; time limit is 2hrs, which is why this is so skeletal.

It is. My intent was to use off-the-shelf 1.2v NiMH rechargeables - I thought I could use 6 cells, but in actual practice 6 cells gave over 8v, and I decided to play it safe with just 5, which yeild about 6.6v. Here are some pics of how it turned out. This works, but as it's a prototype I'd...

Taking a crack at printing up a replacement battery tray on the local library's 3D printer right now.

I've been collecting for a few years now, but a recent find made me want to make a conquest post. I recently acquired three great computers in one lot: The first is a PowerBook Kanga. In great shape, and with a battery that still holds several hours of charge. The second is a PowerBook 140...

Thanks for the images in this thread! I was looking to build a new battery for my 140, and the information here was very helpful; there aren't a lot of photos of the innards of a 1X0-series battery around on the internet.

Also in response to your power adapter voltage spec query, my MP2100 adapter is 7.5v 1.2a and works with the eMate.

I also picked up 2 of these eMates from these guys (local pickup). When I got them home, one was in great shape, but the touchscreen on the other was totally unresponsive. They were happy to exchange the faulty one. Perhaps they'll do the same for you? It's still less than a month since you...

Out of curiosity, how's the hinge on the eMate with the calibration issues.... Is it kind of loose? A common issue is a spring coming loose in the hinge assembly and puncturing the ribbon cable to the screen.

Success! The culprit in this case was likely C418, a 2200uf 6.3v cap which leaked all over the place. I also replaced: C512 - 100uf 50v C417 - 2200uf 35v C920 - 2200uf 35v C517 - 100uf 25v I actually replaced these and tested the monitor before I swapped out C418 - with no change. That...

Underside of the board....

Well, there's a lot of cap goo in there. That was my first time taking an anode cap off. Phone went off just as I was doing it and nearly gave me a heart attack! Technight, did you end up replacing TA8403K and LA7824 like you mused about in your video, or was this purely a cap problem?