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Yeah, or some other means of extending the leads (or pads)... BUT - I'm really curious about the actual specs of the original part. In addition to neglecting to check the package size, I should have also looked more closely at the diode's specs, as the 13V rating seems high; I'd think it should...

oh snap - I didn't think to take a measurement before linking :oops:

Oh lol - thanks. :) Looking at a 180 board I have here, the marking on that diode is 'KW'... afaict the equivalent diode on the 140 is D16, which has a zener diode marking... Zener diodes with the KW code are DDZ13B-7...

I can't for the life of me find D15 on the motherboard... where the heck is it?

Ha, yeah pretty sure that wouldn't happen today. I love stories like this - the closest I can get to 'the days' is discovering provenance from the HDD... it's neat to receive into care machines that were used for cool things.

Yeah, -ish... to clarify, the 140/145/145B and 170 share the same motherboard, and the 160/165 and 180 share a revised motherboard... the power circuit looks a little simplified, but it looks like most of the major components are still there in a recognizable / similarish configuration.

Another option - 3D print a new case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5231825 You could recreate the leads if you're not keen on salvaging them from the old battery. At least it'll be removable, you could have a couple on hand

@GRudolf94 lol jinx! Sorry, I think we posted at the same time :)

It should work fine - the original battery is two groups of 5 nicad cells in series joined in parallel... those RC packs are 5 nicad or nimh cells, so pairing a couple of those would give you a decent replacement. If you can find an old battery, you can recell it using these packs. And yes it...

Yeah, no electrolytics to go on these, not even on the display (there's one on the inverter board, but that wouldn't cause a total non-boot afaik). When the PSU is plugged in, is the board getting power? It's possible the connector is loose in the PCB. If it is getting power, then I guess...

I like it!

Yeah, this is super weird. Whatever method you attempt to remove it, it might make sense to take extra precautions for self-protection - gloves, perhaps eye protection and mask, and good ventilation - no idea what might be getting airborne. I'm not even sure what to suggest what products to...

I have one somewhere on my bench if you want it.

Keep an eye on this page: https://androda.work/product/macintosh-portable-7-megabyte-ram-card/ A first run was completed and have sold out, but parts for another much larger run have been received and are being assembled.

Ah, good to hear! I need to grab some Noctuas...

I strongly advise against this. The material at the top of the flyback is a sort of epoxy / wax sealant, and can't be reflowed.. and I honestly do not think it likely your sealant is an issue here, it looks fine to me. It naturally dries out and turns brown over time and with use, which is what...

Hard to know for sure, but I'm tempted to first suspect cracked solder joints on the flyback and possibly elsewhere on the analog board (on the headers specifically) - that flyback looks okay to me. Especially since the symptoms seems to go away after the machine warms up (expansion improving...

Hey no worries - the more scenarios and troubleshooting catalogued in the forum, the more resources for others! Possibly - look carefully at the clips on either side of the socket and see if there are cracks. The ROM should be seated snugly in the socket, and if the clips are damaged and...

Does Q1 test good?

Dude - that monitor is baller... what is it? Is it on a IIc stand?