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Ah good point to clarify --- is the system posting? I assumed the machine was not turning on and the clicking was the typical crowbar sound...

Clicking could be caused by any number / combination of failed components. First order of business is to recap then reassess. JDW's recapping walkthrough is very useful (just note that if your board is the international (240V) version, some of the caps will be different):

Ah, interesting - Sharepoints is the key.. thanks, I'll try this out!

I also use a G4 mini with 10.4.11 as my bridge machine - it just tucks away on my desk here, no need to plug a monitor or peripherals into it, just turn it on when I need to pass stuff through. I also use it for Basilisk and Sweet 16, I guess just to keep things compartmentalized. Icing on the...

I believe you will need to set an IP address manually. I'm assuming UniFi will provide you with a list of addresses currently being used on the network; see what those are, then give your Q700 its own number different from the other devices in OT. Here's the definitive guide to networking older...

I've seen situations where an over-enthusiastic use of IPA can dissolve the glue in a driver and affect electrical connections within (ask me how I know)... what happens when you add some pressure to the driver (or near it) while the panel is powered?

Thanks for the update - nice to see some progress. :) It's clear you're on the right track. I'd add that f you're checking Q1, check R2 while you're at it (assuming that schematic applies to the international board as well).

I can't comment on the short except that perhaps those weird voltages smell like a failed op-amp - maybe start with U1. Does the clicking sound seem to be coming from a specific area of the board? If from the lower section toward the speaker, it could be U3 or Q12. These symptoms sound similar...

I've had long-term success with ER14505 batteries, which are pretty easy to get in my experience

Let me know if this group exists and when the next meeting is please

Has anyone replaced the CCFL in a PB180 display? Or done a LED conversion? Mine seems... tired; takes a while to warm up and doesn't ever get that bright. This site seems to have ones that would likely fit (https://www.ccflwarehouse.com/ccfllamps.html), but I'm unsure on sizing. Any have...

Sorry for the late response... I haven't been at my desk much. OK - which power supply are you using? If it's the ADP-17AB 'Low Power' model intended for the 150 it may not have enough jam for the 180 - Apple ultimately recommended the 24W model (7.5 / 3.0A, M5652), or at the very least the...

It's unlikely (not impossible, but unlikely) the new capacitors themselves are an issue, I'd suggest you focus more on cleaning. Yep, do it again with IPA and a brush, blot often, on both sides of the controller board - avoid any of the transparent bits as the IPA can dissolve the adhesives and...

Thanks for detailing your repair journey! These 180's are great machines, imo. So, a few simple things pop to mind: - perform a power manager reset (let system sit without power for 3-5 minutes, then press and hold the reset and interrupt buttons at the same time for 5-10 seconds, then...

My apologies - it wasn't clear to me that you had tested the tube with the other analog board. Well, I guess try the flyback then just to rule it out. If that doesn't solve it, my first thought is a voltage regulation issue that might be discerned by measuring voltage at the floppy port and the...

OK... Before swapping in all these components, did you try the other analog board in this machine?

Thanks for verifying. I'm assuming that the width adjustment pot is working correctly (L2 - sometimes it needs a cleaning), so maybe check /reflow the solder joints on the flyback, specifically pin 2 (for the horizontal sweep)... EDIT: rewatching the video, this actually looks like something on...

Welcome! Some thoughts: Did you replace C1? If so, what did you use? Check R1, should be 220 OHms Inspect / reflow pin 4 of J1 (the top one) --- does the connector look burned? inspect / clean the yoke connector pins and socket (at the back of the tube)

Also - the solder on the power connector is known to crack... something else to check

Yeah! I'm sort of surprised this hasn't been done already... has it? We need it!