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Hmmm I'll have to look at this on mine. I've taken apart, shrunk the belt, cleaned the rollers the belt was on, cleaned the disk rollers thoroughly and even attempted to glue them to the bar they rotate on to make sure they weren't slipping, and mine still struggles to eject... would be really...

Also make sure an alias to the network share isn't in startup items or something easy like that as well.

Hmm possible the plug was loose for it from the last time someone had it apart. Not tons of slack on that little cable. Glad it's working now.

I am still after a working board, but it would depend on the cost. Already gambled on one on ebay and seem to have lost that gamble. Trying to get a G3 AIO working again.

I spent a little more and got a Hakko FX-888D, as it gets a fair bit of use between vintage hardware and building keyboards and other electronics work. Good quality solder can make a difference. I stick to Kester no clean rosin core. Kapton tape for holding/protecting elements from heat...

These look great! but there's no way I'd be able to pull off all that surface mount without screwing it up. If someone ever starts producing assembled (or at least surface mount assembled) versions, I'd be very interested.

Ahhhh! This may be my issue then... or at least part of it. I am running OS 9 as it's in a beige G3, not the speediest of OS X machine, and I was probably plugging it in after boot... I don't recall... I'll have to make sure to try that. Yeah I found their support pages and documentation...

The drive has it's own power connector so shouldn't need to be drawing any power from the ports on the machine anyway (which the iPod did, and worked, but odd).

I can't seem to locate any Mac software for this card anywhere despite the manual mentioning at the very least an extension for preventing deep sleep. Any chance someone has the original CDRom for one of these laying around. I've got it in my Beige G3 tower and it seems to be working for USB but...

Well... some good news and some bad news... I made a poor decision and learned a lesson about trying to re-flow very small pins gently with a soldering iron. I will not be fixing that IIsi any time soon, unfortunately. On the other hand, I re-capped the other IIsi, which was the one in worse...

I hadn't plugged in speakers externally, I'll give that a try. It does click quietly when the board powers up.

Yep the PSU is recapped and working, tested with another working PSU also. I turns on, HD gets power, soft power works, but no sound and just a gray (or tinted gray) screen. I've re-done and continuity tested the caps more times than I can count now (went through three sets, just in case) and...

Attaching a photo of the board currently if that helps. There are two pads that lifted or partially lifted, so I've scraped a bit off the connected traces and soldered them to the traces (hence why they're crooked). They're at C5 and C31. I also noticed a couple of stray black bristles from the...

Clarification, I do a lot of through hole soldering work, so I might be running my temp a bit high for surface mounts.

I recently recapped the PSU and tested it working in another system. I've also tested that system's PSU in this one with the same results, so I don't think it's the PSU. The board wasn't heavily contaminated with cap goo fortunately. No idea how to test the Egret chip though (or which it is)...

Yep, used hot air to remove old caps, small tip, heat directed on caps with low pressure. The hot air rework was at 350c. I used my iron to solder the surface mount tants, ~370c on that. Through-hole soldering work so I might be running a bit high on that.   I've continuity tested the caps...

Well I've removed the caps, given the pads a good clean fluxed it all back up and soldered caps back on and given it a clean. I've already done this before and nothing changed, but we'll see how it goes, it's in the oven drying for a few hours now. Is it possible a heat gun could have damaged...

I do have a multimeter but it doesn't have a specific mode for testing capacitors.... how do I go about testing them correctly? Do they need to be removed from the board or can I test them inline?

No problem. I can take photos of the board a bit later if that will help. For the most part the screen is just normal gray. Once in a while when powering on it takes a yellow hue. I also forgot to mention, I already successfully re-capped the power supply, so I'm quite confident it's not...

I didn't see any notable corrosion on legs or traces but I have thoroughly cleaned the board and cleaned the pads before putting the new caps on. There really wasn't much cap goo on this board (I have another to do which is worse).