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About to mount the new UE8 chip. But first had to clean up the scraping of the board. Did find copper under there, but below the top layer. Not good. UV solder mask not yet cured. May have made it too thick to dry properly. Should know soon.

Thanks for that! The LS166 should be here Saturday, I'll get those traces checked.

That's a good call @obsolete , that does look to be touching a pin on the VLSI chip, @BespokeMan

Yes, noticed there was a substitute still available, and deleted that edit.

Do you get the chime at least? I used the zoom feature on my ancient phone, to take those close up pics of the UE8 chip. Can you get some good pics of your row of Uxx chips, that UE8 is in? You're welcome to post some pics in here, if you feel like it. The new LS166 UE8 8-bit shift register...

Looks like the bodges won't be difficult to get connected again. The red line is GND, and can be patched in to the via above it, tested and proven. The green bodge doesn't have far to go either. Will get the parts ordered and get back to this soon.

You're absolutely correct, those pads were burned off, before I started digging at the board looking for copper under there. Should've left it like this: But I watched a YT video where the guy explains you just need to scrape away that black layer to get to the copper below. Well, not if the...

Is 30 AWG Kynar wire sufficient, or what would you recommmend?

A leg rotted off. Having a lot of trouble trying to uncover those traces that were blackened. Can't get solder to stick to those two pads. Will order a LS166, and see if I have to use bodge wires, hope not.

If none of the above works, will be paying special attention to UE8, and in particular this trace that seems to go to the bottom of the LB, there is no via to test on the top side.

After watching this video @0:42: That's the exact same simasimac pattern I have. He concludes fairly early on that he should've tried some different RAM to start off with, before going so far in to the repair process. I have 4Mb of tested RAM in my SE, that I'll be trying out in the SE/30...

Everything was going really well, until I plugged it in. Seems I've joined the simasimac club, except I get no chime, just an opening pop/crack as if a sound might begin to play (very brief pop/click), and then only this. The chains. Checked the ROM slot, and found a small piece of plastic...

Got the 1.44 floppy rebuilt. Stock grease and gears. Some mold growing on my cheese gear? Barely touched the moldy cheese gear with my thumbnail to remove it from the case, and a chunk came off of the small inner gear. DuPont Molykote from Japan. These Betterbit eject gears from ebay are...

Ebay has a decent selection, went with the Japan Molykote, instead of Dow Corning, got one from CA, as opposed to NJ, was trying to get it quicker. https://www.ebay.com/itm/387715756346

I nearly installed (2) caps backwards in the logic board, again. No hot polyester confetti party this time though, didn't power it up backwards. Couldn't believe I did it the first time on the SE logic board (same two caps even C18, C11), C18 popped and stunk the house up for an evening. Guess...

Got the eject gear from Betterbit. Recapped the floppy. Was watching the JDW video for the 1.44Mb floppy, and he recommends using Dow Corning EM-30L lube for the entire drive. Just ordered some from here in California, hopefully it gets here soon.

Nice work! What gave you the clue that it was the LS393 chip causing this? Was the chip visibly corroded?

This SE/30 is coming together a lot faster than my SE restoration. It's always easier the second time around. Got the PSU done, fresh heat grease too. Logic, analog, and PSU finished. Ordered the yellow tantalum caps, got all black, can live with it. Clear glue on all the same factory...

Didn't seem like that many parts when I was ordering, but that's every cap in the SE/30. Time to get started.

Got the SMD caps removed, and the board cleaned of corrosion. Will freshen up the solder pads tomorrow. Hopefully the Mouser order shows up tomorrow.