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Is the ROM stock? I would try different RAM configurations, as well. My Turbo 040 seems to have issues with RAM configurations that work fine without it. The main problem I had was that I just wasn't waiting long enough for the RAM check to happen with 68MB of RAM. I imagine with your 128 it...

That's another good point. Both of my faulty-config ABs are also recapped (with the same caps) so I shouldn't rule them out, either. On the 5V rail itself it looks like there's just a 100 uF cap in what looks like an RC filter for the AB, but it's certainly possible the other circuits on the AB...

Alright, this is (somewhat) solved. As @Crutch pointed out, there's no reason to trust two power supplies, especially since I recapped both with the same parts. I first tried splicing in a lab power supply between the AB and LB, but it appears the LB either looks for the -5 and -12V lines...

Another update on page 9 (power connector: the ground isn't shown on pins 1-5, 7, 8 as it is in the original: Sorry for dropping all these here, I'll figure out github one of these days!

I also bought an "L88M" 040 from eBay with similar results. Seems like an oddly specific thing to counterfeit, I guess using a full 040 makes it harder to dispute. Does anyone have thermal camera images of a known good L88M or K63H running with no heatsink? That would provide more robust...

Also, adding to this thread since I happened across this and someone in the future might find it useful as it's relevant to question 2 in the OP. The Artmix site had a page that talked about firmware versions here: https://web.archive.org/web/20070814112501/http://www.artmix.com/romver.html On...

The PSUs are both stock Sony and both recapped except for the one large 400V cap that I bought in the wrong size (too tall). I recapped them both with the same caps, so it's quite possible I did something consistently stupid, though :) I'm thinking I'll try to rig up a lab power supply to the...

I would probably stick to software released before whatever computer came out. Maybe add a year or two at most. At this point you won’t be running anything released within the last 20 years on your Mystic, so why try to push it?   In a lot of cases the most current version a machine can run...

Alright, I have an interesting data point to share. I just procured a PowerCache P33 and swapped it in for the Turbo 040. Same result! Flashing question mark initially, but blipping the power causes it to boot. So the good news is that my accelerators either both work fine or are miraculously...

Echoing @Crutch a bit, but how is everyone feeling about this mod a few years on? It seems like @Bolle did it with "satisfactory" results (dark, unfocused image; better after warm up) and @dkjones96 did it and is considering undoing it (sync loss on warm reboot and lack of clarity). I get that...

Glad it made the trip down there unscathed! Sorry I didn't have the port cover, it came with an ethernet card installed. I guess that would be a slightly more expensive way to fill the open hole :)

I've had good luck with my Hakko FR-301. I used an old bulb-style Radio Shack desoldering iron for over a decade that worked, but tended to leave solder in the holes like you mention. The FR-301 can blast through a whole PDS connector in no time and leave the holes squeaky clean. It can bog down...

I am trying to get a Daystar Turbo 040 working in my SE/30 using one of @Bolle's short adapters. I've already managed to work through other issues, but this one has me stumped. Basically, the machine will not find any startup disks when it boots from a cold start (e.g. flipping the power switch...

Thanks to @EvilCapitalist I am now rolling with 4.11: Note that it appears the processor speed is encoded into the ROM. This was originally a 33MHz accelerator but is currently running at 48MHz with a 24Mhz crystal. Relevant to this thread about firmware differences: with the 4.01(i)...

@pax Thanks for the data point! @EvilCapitalist Awesome, here is an archive posted previously by @off that contains 3.07, 4.01, and 4.11 for completeness: https://68kmla.org/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=23448

I bought an "L88M" on eBay and it sits at around 60° C at idle at 40MHz, measured with a thermal camera. I run it at 48MHz with a low profile heatsink and again it sits at around 60 °C and is stable. The labeling on the chip is suspiciously crisp, but it is a full 040 so it seems crazy someone...

I agree with @aeberbach that it's kind of hard to tell if the whole board is covered by a film or if that's just the soldermask. The solder fillets on UE8 and UF8 look a little mangled so it's possible there's some corrosion happening there, but again hard to tell. Maybe I misunderstood, does it...

I’ve heard that about some modules. I have two different 16MB SIMMs, one from MemoryX and the other from Keystron. Both are almost obnoxiously short (as in harder to get in and out of the clips, far shorter than stock 1MB sticks) and have no clearance issues.    You can always try without...

Yes, I believe that’s normal. Mine do that, at least. This is what I see with no RAM and stock ROM:

Have you tried all possible RAM bank configurations? There is a published table for normal amounts but 16GB SIMMs are beyond the scope.    FWIW, in mine I run with 4x 256KB in bank A and 4x 16MB in bank B. This appears to work. In your pic it looks like maybe you have the 16MB SIMMs in bank A...